508-Fanatic Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Hi everyone, Just wondering if anyone has a take on the ETA 2836 with the GMT mod? Any problems? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denimhead Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 Hi everyone, Just wondering if anyone has a take on the ETA 2836 with the GMT mod? Any problems? Thanks! Hi fanatic I have one in a 1655 rep and ssteel after a full service has got it to CSOC standards and running perfectly. eta never offered a 2836 with gmt function so the gmt gears are asian but perfect Hope that helps 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mymanmatt Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 carbinet2009 on ebay has a clone 2836-2 for $135. It works good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSTEEL Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 They can be fine, Chinese GMT gears are quite a clever add on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mymanmatt Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 carbinet2009 on ebay has a nice 2836-2 gmt. It works well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 What about CHS modified 2836's? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 As already said, the GMT conversion for the ETA 2836-2 and ETA 2646 is a Chinese gear set added on. It does work quite well, though is slightly out of sync. It might need a reset every couple of months, so it is no big deal. The only drawback is that the pinion size is larger, so a genuine Rolex GMT hand will not fit it. Why the ETA 2892-2 in your attachment? ETA makes the ETA 2893-2, which is a GMT movement from the Swiss factory. The genuine Rolex GMT hand does fit it. Both are considered on par with genuine Rolex movements. The thing that's nice about the Rolex 6542 and the 1675 GMTs is that the ETA is the correct hand stack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 I picked up a Hamilton 2893 ETA the other day for my 16750 as I have had issues with the converted 2836. Runs Ok when hand wound but something's amiss with the auto mechanism. Does not keep running on the winder or the wrist without a hand wind. Occasionally the GMT hand get stuck at 7. Did some research and it looks like the CP will need to be raised to the h4 to work in my watch. Not sure about stem height either found mixed information on this. Hopefully it will work as it appears to be a nice movement in very good condition and was relatively inexpensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denimhead Posted June 5, 2015 Report Share Posted June 5, 2015 What about CHS modified 2836's? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I'd really advise against the chocolate gears such a shame they didn't get it right in terms of half decent materials Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
508-Fanatic Posted June 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Once again you guys are a wealth of knowledge, thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
panerai153 Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 If I were going to change out the movement, and everything fit, I would definitely go with a 2893-2 as it s a rugged purpose built GMT movement. Key words here is "if it fits". There were a few attempts to transplant the 2893 into the 116710 GMT Ceramic, which met with very limited success, I believe primarily because the pinions were too short and the hands wouldn't clear the dial indices. This should be less of a problem with the 1675 or early 16750's (before the white gold surrounds). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronin Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 I have never been a fan of converted 2836's w/GMT add on. If you are doing a vintage Rolex project, I have had great success with the DG3804. It is a purpose built chinese automatic GMT. I was able to drop one in a GEN 1675 with nothing more than an adapter ring (stilty or Yuki). Also, the date wheel on the DG3804 magically aligned with "plexi/acrilc" era Rolex dials. Finally, this is lower beat which is more correct on vintage Rolex, and correct hand stack for 6542/1675. So to be clear, on the hacked together 2836, there are a lot of mods required to Rolex'ize it, and as a result reliability is a crap shoot. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 Yes. I've only had experience with one CHS converted 2836, and the GMT wheel kept slipping off the cog. I really couldn't live with it and just gave it away. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted June 6, 2015 Report Share Posted June 6, 2015 If I were going to change out the movement, and everything fit, I would definitely go with a 2893-2 as it s a rugged purpose built GMT movement. Key words here is "if it fits". There were a few attempts to transplant the 2893 into the 116710 GMT Ceramic, which met with very limited success, I believe primarily because the pinions were too short and the hands wouldn't clear the dial indices. This should be less of a problem with the 1675 or early 16750's (before the white gold surrounds). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk This is what I am worried about as my dial has the surrounds. I did see where some were successful using a higher cp like the h4 on a TC. But still worried about the crown position. If anyone can figure it out Matt can. Once the 1016 is back together I will send the 16750 and movement to him and we will find out...sooner or later I will find a gen anyways but be nice to have this one fixed up to sell down the road. Sent from my droptop using telepathy ️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbh Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 On the 2893 use a H5 canon pinion set and it's still a very tight fit. I got one to work in my GMTIIC and wouldn't want to try it again. I still had to bend the GMT hand slightly up to go over the dial indices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droptopman Posted June 7, 2015 Report Share Posted June 7, 2015 On the 2893 use a H5 canon pinion set and it's still a very tight fit. I got one to work in my GMTIIC and wouldn't want to try it again. I still had to bend the GMT hand slightly up to go over the dial indices. Thank you for this information. Much appreciated. Sent from my droptop using telepathy ️ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cjjoyce1 Posted June 8, 2015 Report Share Posted June 8, 2015 (edited) I have never been a fan of converted 2836's w/GMT add on. If you are doing a vintage Rolex project, I have had great success with the DG3804. It is a purpose built chinese automatic GMT. I was able to drop one in a GEN 1675 with nothing more than an adapter ring (stilty or Yuki). Also, the date wheel on the DG3804 magically aligned with "plexi/acrilc" era Rolex dials. Finally, this is lower beat which is more correct on vintage Rolex, and correct hand stack for 6542/1675. So to be clear, on the hacked together 2836, there are a lot of mods required to Rolex'ize it, and as a result reliability is a crap shoot. +1 Me too. There have been improvements to this movement over the years too. I put one of these newer ones in my 1675 when they came out - and transplanted the old one into a Seamaster GMT. Both are unserviced and run flawlessly after several years. The one in my 1675 is +4 sec/day per Kello, but I've never had to reset it - and has a 38-40hr power reserve. But everyone turns their noses up at 'em. Can't figure out why. Also, drop in. No stem height issues in a gen case or canon pinon height problems/sunken datewheel, period. Edited June 8, 2015 by cjjoyce1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted June 9, 2015 Report Share Posted June 9, 2015 As I wrote in another thread: A brand new ETA 2836-2 is $239.00 from Otto Frei. You would have the knowledge that it is genuine Swiss and a warranty.http://www.ofrei.com/page_183.html The ETA 2892-2 is better. $329.00, same page. The problem is fitting it to your watch. As already said, if it is a Chinese DG movement the dial feet are in the wrong position and the hands will not fit an ETA. Hands to fit the ETA are available in the Rolex 'Tudor' line, gen or aftermarket. If you have the Chinese movement, it is likely the DG2813. They can be hit or miss, but will usually last a good 3 to 5 years with no issues. My Son has one in the 16610 Submariner I got for him from one of our trusted dealers in China, wore it through all 4 years at University of Hawaii in the ocean and out, and even cliff diving with it. (Yes, I have been permanently scarred by parenthood ) The DG2813 is $28.95 from Otto Frei, again guaranteed to be new and guaranteed to run as it's supposed to. And they are CLEAN, unlike the ones that come in our finished reps. It is recommended when buying a rep from our trusted dealers, regardless what movement including 'Swiss' to have it serviced as soon as you receive it. I doubt many do that, but it is strongly recommended by the knowledgeable here on this site.http://www.ofrei.com/phttpage1119.html Everyone needs to choose for themselves if they want a genuine Swiss movment, an 'Asian' ETA, or Chinese movement. I have all 3. A genuine Swiss movement, including Rolex and ETA, needs service roughly every 5 years. That service ranges from about $200 and up, as you likely know from your genuine watches. Having serviced a Chinese movement once (only once-never again ) I recommend that to service a Chinese movement like a DG2813 you remove the movement from the case. Remove the hands and dial. A tool to open the case, a hand remover tool, a set of nice screwdrivers, and a hand installing tool would be needed. Cost varies but you can get all that for under $100 from Frei. Place the movement on your workbench. Hit the thing with a 40 ounce ball peen hammer and sweep the mess into the garbage. Take the brand new movement and install in reverse order. The worst that can happen is you mess it up and take it to your watch guy and he finishes it. The absolute worst disaster that can happen is that you get some help from fellow members here, it goes beautifully, and you believe you have a new talent and these brand new tools that just scream to be used again. They will draw you in to start working on and modding watches like the rest of us. Be forewarned!The DG3804B is the GMT version of the DG2813. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now