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Decals print dials


Bart Cordell

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15 hours ago, jelliottz said:

Nice to see you bringing your dial over here. Glad it's going well.

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Thanks J! I appreciate your support over the process :) it's been a productive few months

15 hours ago, Sogeha said:

^^^ Can I request a link to that project please.

Sogeha, I will pass along the info.

9 hours ago, Bart Cordell said:

If we could see it on a brassed dial.


emoji632.png

Phil and Bart, this is only a prototype dial, but it is on brass. I believe I won't have difficulty making the reverse relief thinner. That said, I actually purposely made it a little thick; I prefer how these "valleys" play with the light. The dial looks amazing in sunlight.

 

 

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When are you going to start selling bart. Your builds are looking amazing.

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If I find time, when all my projects are completed ;)

Meanwhile here is a new gilt 6538 with gold leaf improvement ready to be put in case.

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This 1675 is a stunner. I just think a less faded (on the blue side) insert would look even more gorgeous. 
 
 
Congrats frenchy lad  

You're right, I agree concerning the insert. I will replace it when my next 6538 completed.


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  • 2 weeks later...

Great work on these decals. You've made me think I can give it a go myself!

So, I've been reading through the thread and had a general question before I download a trial of Photoshop.

When you start your project in Photoshop, are you starting with a empty picture and drawing in a circle for the dial and then placing all of the various elements in picture? Or, are you starting with a decent quality picture of the dial and then doing a tracing of it in Photoshop? 

Thanks,

Andy

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I've done it both ways, but the lettering and logo need to come from a picture. The problem with using a picture is that you can rarely find one that is perfectly lined up to be round. So be prepared to round the slightly 'egg shaped' images using your photo program.   

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Thanks for the replies. So, I'm playing around with tracing just the basic stuff on the dial. When you zoom in to 200-300% things get pretty pixelated and there is a definite solid white edge and then the pixels get significantly lighter. Do you trace around just the more defined obviously white pixels or are the lighter ones important to capture in the shape?


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I started back in 2009 and the decals have been a rolling through to my final in 2013.  I set everything to the highest resolution my program could handle, and then I went pixel by pixel. I eliminated the lighter and darker 'shades', and made it all solid black with solid white (inkjet printers do not print white so on a clear decal paper the lettering will be clear) lettering. I had to go back and forth, enlarging and reducing the blowup to check if it looked right. I'm no computer person, so I likely did it the hard way. But I like the result. 

28mm best all black.JPG

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