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More attention to waterproofing


Nanuq

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JoeyB, our bears like the wahine just fine, you'll notice the kane got away uneaten.  :chef:

That fog came from one simple mtn bike ride.  Well, 12 miles of rooty singletrack in a heavy rain.  :acute:

Sheesh, you'd think the thing could stand a little dampness.  :nea:

 

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1 hour ago, alligoat said:

Of the usual suspects, I would start with the crystal. Hope it's somewhat gen-like construction.

Nope... this crystal is just pushed in the front, and friction holds it in the bezel/insert.  No bueno.

I wonder if a dollop of UV glue around the base would hold it, seal it, and not be too visible?

 

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4 hours ago, Nanuq said:

Nope... this crystal is just pushed in the front, and friction holds it in the bezel/insert.  No bueno.

I wonder if a dollop of UV glue around the base would hold it, seal it, and not be too visible?

A thin shmear of properly exposed UV cement around the perimeter of the xtal-to-case interface should do it. But, before allowing the watch anywhere near moisture again, I would have it pressure-tested (at least yearly); & I would also have the movement overhauled asap as the moisture you saw in the xtal may only be the tip of a slow wave of corrosion making its way through the movement underneath. A relative once of prevention now may avert a pound of pain later. At the very least, assuming the damage has not already been done, you might try placing the watch into an air-tight jar with some packets of desiccant for 24 hours, which may help to dry the innards out.;)

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Thanks Freddy that's good advice. But I know for a fact it's thoroughly (cough) dried out now.

It doesn't use any kind of standard bezel/ring connection to the case and the bezel refuses to come off. I can pick the crystal out with my fingernail so I need to get something on its lip to glue it down to the case.

I don't plan to get it any wetter than a bike ride in the rain so resistance is plenty... I don't need "proof"ness.

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I just looked with a loupe and there's a dished ring around the rehaut. A tropic 21 fits perfectly, so if I had steadier hands a thin strip of G-S Hypo around that lip ought to seal it nicely.

33f067a20697961591666eeedd24c7b4.jpg

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You must realize that you can only run over a watch just so many times before it starts to degrade it's structural integrity!

I set these in with clear epoxy and have hat good results.  Of course the movement/dial assy. needs to be removed and any excess epoxy trimmed from the rehaut with a scalpel once it gets 'rubbery."  Wait too long and it's a byotch to trim off...

 

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Tell me your shipping address again??

:Jumpy:



The T21 fits like a glove... I wonder what other plexi domes have the same diameter but thicker material? The T21 is fine for a street watch but I'd like something a smidgen stronger. For obvious reasons!

T19 and T39 are both too small in OD, as is a T17 and T16. Any ideas?
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On 24 August 2016 at 0:25 AM, Nanuq said:

Maybe I need to revisit the situation... :g:

 

Hello,

I may not know much about watchmaking apart from pulling out a mvt, changing the crystal, and repositioning the yoke popping out in the keyless works.

I can say that I had a similar problem with a sapphire crystal submariner I purchased from Paul, [censored] or Aspire whatever his current alias is now.  It was good to swim with and to dip my hand in the bucket etc, until one day it fogged up like yours on a very hot day.

I removed the mvt immediately and it seemed fine and left it in a container of rice for a few days..  I closed off the case with the stem etc and placed the empty case in very cold water which I got out of the fridge.  I immediately pulled it out from cold to very hot water (approx 60 degrees) and noticed bubbles appear near the top part of the crystal and some near the back case.  Glass and rubber have a higher coefficent of expansion than steel.  This sudden change in pressure allowed me to see some weak points which would be what a pressure test would do. 

I bought a new crystal gasket and a back gasket that was slightly thicker and rounder that when I closed off the case back, I could feel the springy rubber feel as I was closing it.  I also removed the o ring gasket inside the crown which was very thin and put some silicone around inside the crown - where I then gently pressed the crown o-ring in to even it in.

I ordered a UV glass kit from ebay and dabbed some around the crystal retaining ring after I had pressed in the crystal.  Do NOT ateempt this it with the bezel on as the UV glue will bind the bezel to the crystal  Surprise surprise!!!! A few days later, I repeated the hot/cold water test again and NO bubbles appeared anywhere.  It has been over 12 months and I can swim with it and on hot and cold days,my crystal has never fogged up again. Just wanting to share my backyard approach.  HOPE that yours will be fine too. 

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I think the ID of the T-22 is the same as the T-21, but the OD is slightly thicker- it goes on the 1016 which is more robust that than the Daytonas (6239-6265, 6238, etc.).

Those sure are a rough set of hands and dial! Nanuq brown!

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