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Here is a TOTALLY modified DW case. All faces reworked ! Top of the lugs, sides... It now has the correct early "tonneau" shape we all love to see. Note the extra clear and correct shaped Verlux crystal. The only aftermarket crystal that is a match to the original T21

Beware the "grail" that comes too easily ... it will soon lose its luster. It took over 4 years for me to acquire mine, and another almost 20 years to put it back into the condition it deserved. NOW ... it's a "grail".

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My PAM 127 on a amazing Corrigia strap. This is by far the best strap I have ever bought.

Going gen today....

Again

Over bleached Cartel insert replaced by a cheap cousins insert. Not very accurate but nice enough for the moment. And the same insert bleached and heated.

Here's a shot of the Clark T19 and CWP T19 – same watch. Note the rehaut distortion with the Clark T19 Crystal on the left:

Just testing it out a bit... Gave the case a polish before drilling lugs, and then redoing the bevels and final polish.

The bracelet looks good! The clasp blade that connects to the clasp cap is not original so you might change it out with a signed part for a better look. The cut down end of the clasp blade should be a little less than 8mm, the slot on the other blade is approximately 8mm, and the blades are about 15.5mm wide. If the tab on the clasp blade that fits into the slot on the other blade is worn down to much less than 7.5mm or so, the fit might be loose but still Ok. The connecting pin should be loose in the blade tab and tight in the slotted blade. You can pinch the ends of the cap fork to tighten the ends and it is better not to make any crimping marks at all on it like the slotted blade now shows. Brass lined pliers are good for this. Example of brass lined pliers...eBay item number 190672634204

Tony, I really don't know much about the SubC. However I would try to make sure that he keeps a few general advisories in mind when buying. watches like the 116610 are pretty common. I would suspect that the numbers out there are in the hundreds of thousands as they are approaching 6 years from first introduction. Theoretically they are all the same from outward appearances, however most Rolex enthusiasts know that Rolex makes small changes and upgrades that would go unnoticed except by a real WIS or someone who does a bit of research. First off buy the seller. If it sounds the least bit fishy, run like hell, remember this is a pretty common watch, another one WILL come along! Next, buy the condition, most of these will probably be in pretty nice condition, but be aware of a cracked insert, chipped crystal or dings and dents that may indicate a brief but hard life, and expensive to fix! Third, a watch with all the boxes and papers, receipts, hang tags is worth more than one that has nothing. Easier to sell also if he decides it's not his "cup of tea" Fourth, the early release watches (2010) are approaching the time for a recommended service. Rolex services are not cheap, especially from a RSC that wants to change everything, and charge like crazy. Not uncommon to get a 1k estimate for a complete service. So a watch from the same time period that has a documented service would be a better deal than and unserviced one. Also, buying from an AD or jewelry store that sells a lot of watches will most likely be more expensive, but most all of them will give him some sort of warranty as well as a "trade up" policy should he not like the 116610 and want something else, they will give him his money back on a trade, within reason and time, of course. That's pretty much my advice, along with doing his homework and using common sense. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I'd have him send it for appraisal without him paying anything. Then slice the bottom of the box open and refill it with a dog turd or something. Next video yourself carefully opening it and to your surprise it's not there. Let him prove to the post office that he sent you a watch. There's always more than one way to skin a cat.

IT IS FINISHED!!! Rolex 1966 "5513" Gilt Underline Submariner ​Genuine Rolex Cal.1520 movement, +/- 3 seconds per day, completely serviced and rebuilt by master watchmaker Reshaped 1680 case by DBane to 1966 Point Crown Guard 5513, bevels re-cut, significant shaping work done Mid-Case engraving done by NeckyZips Genuine Rolex T-19 plexi Genuine 5512 caseback with affixed NOS Genuine 5513 factory sticker, pre-hologram Genuine 700 crown and tube Genuine 2mm spring-bars (not employed at the moment as they didn't fit this bracelet) (found them!!) Yuki Dial & Hands relumed and aged by Daz Genuine bezel assembly OEM aged/faded insert from Daz (I also have genuine insert as well, but prefer this "ghost-like" insert) StoneP sourced rivet 7206 style bracelet, also have horween shell cordovan and worn&wound horween straps What do you all think? I took some shots with the Canon 35mm DSLR, and I took some with the iPhone and OlloClip.