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I heard a rumor that DW has eloped with MD2020, they are off to vegas with a big bag of cash.

One of my Dali`s

Hi guys, I can't seem to remember when I posted some of my 'projects' on the board so it's time for an update I've been trying to improve my skills and I'm slowly climbing the ladder towards franken+ projects (it's been a slow but very fun climb ) These are a few examples of what I've been building, tweaking and tuning, none are franken builds but nice medium-range projects: First one is a 5513, specs and modds: - Old MBW case, reshaped cg's, gently aged case - Gen 703V crown - Clark 703 tube - Minh Maxi dial, repainted and reworked the indices - Unknown T-19 - ETA-2846 - Clark hands, aged and repainted - Gen faded insert w/ tritium pearl - OEM 93150 w/ 580 EL pics: --- Next one is a 1665 DRSD thin case, specs and modds: - HH case, thinned/shaved inner-rehaut for proper 1665 dial adjustment - Gen 703V crown - Clark 703 tube - Minh aged/brownish DRSD dial, slightly shaved at the edges for a perfect fit, repainted and reworked the indices - Unknown T-19 - ETA-2846 - Silver datewheel - TC hands, slightly aged and repainted - Gen faded insert w/ lumi pearl - 7836 folded bracelet pics: --- Third is a 1665 DRSD, specs and modds: - Old MBW case, reshaped cg's, reworked and aged case - Gen 703 crown - Clark 703 tube - Minh brown DRSD dial, repainted and reworked the indices - Bigcrown Superdome - ETA-2824 - Clark hands, aged and repainted - Gen faded and baked insert w/ homemade pearl - MBW 93150, aged and reworked. pics: --- And all this is has led to my first 'NOS' franken build (soo excited about this!!) I've collected all the parts, not everything has arrived yet but this will give you a taste; I can't wait for all the remaining parts to arrive and start building!!! I hope you've enjoyed this little photo-show Cheers! fitch

Ha, let them mate. I have lost all respect for him and if anybody see's him as anything other than a robbing b*stard then they are deluded.

Dont say anything about md2020 because all the know it alls are going to start telling you how great he is again.

I had the hardest time trying to determine which dial color to get... So I figured the easiest way to pick ONE was to buy all THREE! Lol I'll post some pictures up comparing all three when I get them in hand.

after 12 years collecting...

I was fed-up of the poor lume that the Sinn came with so I decided to do a little experimenting with some C5 Superluminova. The result isn't great (fairly messy) but not too bad either for a first attempt. At least it glows like a torch now

Ceo you are a maniac! :bangin:

Subscribed!

This one just up!

Fantona

I got the watch today. Here are some first thoughts about this watch. And I already took the pictures, but they are probably not that good, because of bad lighting. When I first looked at the watch, I was very happy they got the blue hands right, they are beautiful and I don't think gen has them any better. They are not lacquered as on my other rep, but heat treated, or how do they do it. And they change color with different lighting, as blue hands should, and what is the main attraction of blue hands. And I have to say for the whole dial, it is as best as it can be in a rep, I would rate it 8/10 comparing to gen. The drawbacks are: -too thin DW font, altough centered nice -specks of dust in the grooves, I counted 4 on mine This is a QC thing and it shouldn't happen. They should have used an air blower or rodico. I am now looking at my $35 Silix AT and it doesn't have this problem. The finishing is nice, everything is polished as it should, even between the lugs, which only some of my gen watches have, but no rep. Altough I did notice that the bezel is sligthly scratched, it didn't came protected. When I first looked at the bracelet I thought that this is a gen quality bracelet. But I later found it is just another rep bracelet. First, they [censored] up the clasp, yes, it still opens and closes without problems, but the 3 parts are held together at some strange angles, I already have a better clasp from a rep which was not made from a genuine watch. The resizing is a pain in the ass, but practice makes perfect, and after probably 10 removed pins, I finally know how to do it without major problems. You have a screw on each side and a pin in the middle. But this pin needs to find its way through 3 holes. Even the second one (through middle part of the link) is not easy sometimes, but for the last one on other side you really have to wiggle it just right so that the pin finds the hole. It is doable, but you need practice and be good with your hands. I don't know how difficult the gen is to resize, but my other rep has only 2 screws, one larger where the smaller one goes in. Endlinks are not that bad, I think the space is pretty normal, and they don't move, but the first two links attached to end links do. Bracelet also has some noise, but nothing that baby oil can't fix. Now for the caseback. There are two specks of dust on mine, one is quite large, probably skin. And funny thing, when I was just saying to myself, look at that nicely polished caseback, I see that it is badly scratched from a jaxa wrench. Couldn't they just use a sticky ball? As for the movement, I can't say much for now. It works normally and it is precise (should be +1s per day). When setting time, it was somehow rough. My other rep is a lot better, but I am almost certain that one has a new Swiss movement. And I noticed a noise coming from it, when I shake the watch up and down. Actually my other rep has that sound too, but I haven't noticed it before. Here it is much louder, like some spring sound. It makes the watch really cheap. Here you have it. To some this would look like a bad watch, but for me, I don't mind misperfections that much. I can use it as a beater watch, which is practically every day if you work in a toolshop like me. And I usually don't have the time to look at the watch from a very close range and for a longer time. What I also have to share is the weight. I will probably measure it too, altough I don't like to use a caliper around new watches, this one already came quite beat up. And the lume. I must say it is nice, but I have yet to see how long it lasts. And yes, there is no AR. But I don't have an AR watch in my posession, so for now that is not so bad for me. You probably wonder what my other rep looks like. I got it from Hont in June. I wanted a 2503.33 Swiss rep, but didn't knew they stopped doing the good ones. Now they are almost fantasy watches, they don't look nothing like the gen. The blue hands are lacquered and they don't look as nice. The finish between the lugs is as poor as it can be, just roughly milled, like on $35 reps. And everything else is quite poorly made, considering I payed $300. I only like the Swiss movement and the bracelet. I can also give you pictures if you like.

i had a one off from a previous manufacturer i was trying out. i very much regret selling this case, best case i ever had. was hoping to sell these regularly, too bad the manufacturer couldnt maintain this level of quality or conduct business appropriately. target price was around $350, cheaper than an MBK and no throw away parts unlike 85% of an mbk 5513 i forget which member bought this, but i hope its not just sitting in a parts drawer somewhere, accepted a Rolex movement too.

+1 pretty sure it wasn't intended to be taken that way LK

"I think I am going to pass on it due to the condition of the dial and hands. Thank you for your inputs." Passing on the project is a good decision imho for whatever reason. I have put a few 'Frankensteins' together using genuine 1530 base movements and the truth is I have really been disappointed in them. I had a few spare movements and bought a few more to make F-steins but have totally changed my mind. Why? In the past four or five years that I have worn the F-steins, I have had a rash of mechanical problems...broken balance staffs, anodized red reverser teeth chipping, winding rotor axles coming loose in the weight, broken top rotor axle jewels etc. It's been like a flash-back to when I wore genuine rolex watches in years past. It's like the guys who say "They don't make cars like they used to". Thank goodness for that! When I drove '55, '56, '57, etc Chevrolets in the mid to late 1960s I spent as much time under them as in them. The truth is that these movements are not very rugged compared to modern (Eta) automatics and just plain fragile compared to quartz movements. The 3035 is not much better in my experience because they have a lot of top winding rotor jewel trouble, hairsprings coming loose on the balance collet, tangled hairsprings, reverser trouble, broken balance staffs etc. I wore a few watches with 3035 back when they were popular but usually sold them as soon as possible (still have two 3035 watches left though). I doubt the 3135 is a whole lot better (one left). I have owned quite a few 3135 watches but never wore one very much. There is a reason why RWC has the biggest repair network in the world. I have had a LOT of experience with 1530 base movements going back to the early 1970s. Broken and worn out parts was not a problem for most of that time but when RWC got psycho serious about cutting off parts, their watches ceased to be worth much to me. I will admit I am rough on watches (because I can fix them...Ha!) but no more than everyone was 35 or 40 years ago when mechanical watches were common and there was a repair shop on every corner. If I was going to make a super nice 16610, the movement question would be Swiss Eta or Asian etaclone and TC would get my vote for the rest. I have had very good luck with genuine Eta 2824/36 etc and if one blows up, parts are plentiful...and cheap! The best thing about a replica rolex is that it does not have a $rolex$ movement...

...and Astroglide lubricant

Now I like White, but I also like blue, but then again I really like Black, there's only one way to find out ................... Regards AJ

I went blue with steel fish 4 years ago when they just came out And just install gen dial and hands, looks stunning White is nice too and could be use as a sport/drees watch Just my two cents

I wouldn't go with the TC case Sean is the best option for 16610 Franken

fits TC case....some play in case...best bet is Sean's case or ST case....however tighten down the case screws hold down screws and there is no play...opening of TC case is a little bigger than gen case....

Either Yuki or, if you can locate 1, an old MBW are your best options. But, as is the case with all aftermarket Sub cases, the final result is only as good as your ability to turn a modern case into a 50+ year old antique.

There is always a risk with customs, its all part of the game. Most get through, but you should always be aware that yours may not. Rule of thumb is, if you cannot afford to lose the cost of your rep, then your in the wrong hobby. Having said that, most Trusted Dealers will resend a seized watch to another address for you, so it would be wise for you to check which TD's exactly have your back.

Its gone be a great replica. The size is good too. But the name TUDOR sound so strange and can't possibly be a pussy magnet.