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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/28/2016 in Posts

  1. Explorer II for me today, more pictures in the topic below:
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  2. I missed this, great we have someone of the fairer sex taking interest. Contact mymanmatt here if you want a top of the line hand built 36mm Datejust rep, you'll save a bundle. PM me if you need help contacting or need more info on what you will get.
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  3. "I'm kind of new but from reading it seems all of the rep. 93150 Bracelets are pretty much equal..." You might end up putting one together from parts. That is what I end up doing. Here is a partial list of some replica parts to look for: Two first links (aka leading links) with 93150 stamped on them (not very easy to find, may have to go with 93250). Full set of links of proper thickness with hollow middle links. Clasp with a rivet where the 'flip lock' closes down over the clasp cap hinge (many have a spring bar here and if the sb is swapped out for a rivet, the flip lock will not pass over the rivet head). Proper type of diver extension. Set of 580 end links (hoods) that will accept oem spec spring bars with 2mm center tubes. Pitfalls: Many clasp 'Z' blades on steel watches have an 18 (for 18k center links) stamped on them, need one without it. Some replica bracelets with hollow mid links are too thin and do not look right. Many of the sheet metal replica dive extensions will not stay snapped together when r/r the watch. A genuine clasp is a very good option as P153 said above. I got one in a trade a while back but still ended up with over $100 in it. New, they are $250 or so. I have not used it on a watch but use it for comparison when making a clasp up using replica parts. I have been using folded Watch International/Mary oyster bracelets on vintage 5512/13 with the early type clasp cap where the adjustment holes are equally spaced. I made a tool out of strap notching pliers to put the oem type 'dents' on the side of the clasp cap between the last two adjustment holes to hold the bracelet up under the clasp cap. They look good but have 7836 on the leading links instead of 9315. They are also very well made. The best 93150 I have came on one of two MBK 1680s I got a few years ago but the other one had solid mid links.
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  4. I well know the feeling, between autocorrect and my dyslexia I have the makings of a world class cypher machine :-)
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  5. Perhaps, it is time for a new phone.
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  6. That's not going to be easy. WSO has 580 end links, don't know if he has 585s. Rafflestime has the bracelet http://rafflestime.com/watch-bracelet/ Or Riyi- http://www.ebay.com/itm/20MM-FLIPLOCK-STEEL-OYSTER-BAND-BRACELET-FOR-ROLEX-MEN-EXPLORER-SUBMARINER-WATCH-/351941420192?hash=item51f157e4a0:g:hfAAAOSwHQ9WV7S1 Not sure where you can pick up a branded clasp- maybe from TC, but it wouldn't be 100% correct- the flip lock clasp shouldn't have the lines in it.
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  7. It's pity we have to ask for donations to run the forums. But come on guys, help RWG!
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  9. The 7500$ Gen on chronocentric was perfect but ... yours is not far from. Congrats for this beautiful watch and wear it proudly. But I HATE YOU [emoji23] because I never felt the need of a ranger and now I do. Envoyé de mon XT1068 en utilisant Tapatalk
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  10. His final ones with 7750 and correct flat S bezel Paul Newman went for $800. Prices are all over the place but recently went up pretty high. All he used ones I've seen was over $750 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  11. The watch is called a DateJust (see dial). If yours says Date Adjust, then it is horribly broken.
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  12. Because there isn't a good one with functioning chronos. With the 7750 case is too thick and the movement is a timebomb waiting to happen. If you want a semi-accurate and reliable modern Daytona without building a franken, the 21j is the best way to go.
    1 point
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