cjjoyce1

I don't wear cologne much anymore. I found the comment about "as I got older. . ." to ring true for me - that and the fact that sitting next to someone for hours at a shot in close quarters (with the outflow valves under our feet) we get bombarded by enough smells. Many of the women (thankfully) wear subtle or sweet scents - and I don't mean sickly sweet, as one described "like fresh baked cookies". I used to wear Tuscany in college and into my early 30's. My wife gave me some C/K Man last year for Christmas.

And I thought this was going to be a thread about gadgets from "Q". .lol

@ nanuq. I think you helped the patient along. Pulled the Plug of sorts.

Gen untouched original Mk 1 dial from Andrew Shear. I didn't want to get it relumed even though a couple markers were in bad shape. Now, you're right.

Last night I dropped my watch as I was taking it off. I didn't notice any damage until I went to slip it back on this morning. A couple of the markers exploded/disintegrated! That yellow dust isn't ON the crystal, it's UNDER it!

Nope

rafflestime #2 movement ring adapter (either from rafflestime.com or off ebay) will fit perfectly with no mods. Get a BK DWO.

Fantastic! I'm jealous of that DWO too...

nice copyright. . .lolz

Yep - the glue just tacked them into place. I've only done this on a 21J movement spacer. The ETA are too thin. I've just used epoxy on those. In both cases, the spacer with feet get permanently affixed to the dial with epoxy.

Andrew Shear - sheartime on the bay has auctions that often settle at reasonable prices. I got my Mk 1 dial for less than some of the prices we've been discussing here.

Yes you will have to cut the feet off, but don't discard them! I mounted them in the movement and put on the dial spacer ring. Since on the 21j's the feet are held against the movement by screw pressure, I was able to fine tune them so the feet just met the top of the dial spacer. A dab of glue to tack them into place, then when it set, I removed them and soldered everything together. Then I mounted it back on the movement and put tiny dabs of white glue on the spacer and perfectly placed the dial. Removed everything when it set, then epoxied them together.

It can be possible to swap the eta wheels without removing the overlay. It's a tiny bit tricky, but it can solve headaches. Remove the old date wheel from the Tissot using this method. http://repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=6526. Then remove the datewheel with overlay on it from the Sub watch by removing the keyless plate first. Then lift it from the keyless side a bit and rotate it clockwise and the whole thing should lift off together. To install it on the Tissot movement, start by positioning the wheel and installing the keyless plate side. Getting the screw for the plate on may be a bit hard. Get it started, then as you get down to the overlay, you may have to use a razor blade to slightly lift the overlay while you tighten the screw down. The screw needs to be partially under the overlay. Don't completely tighten the screw down just yet. Now comes the tricky part. Form the tutorial I linked to, you will see you have to get the teeth of the date wheel in the notches of the jumper spring assembly. With the overlay on, you can't see this, but you can feel it by gently twisting the date wheel assembly down on the movement with two fingers on the wheel 180 degrees apart from one another. Now - once you've found that sweet spot, with your free hand slide the razor blade carefully between the date wheel and the movement to compress the jumper spring while at the same time slightly putting clockwise rotational pressure on the date wheel. You'll feel it rotate into place. Test the assembly by manually advancing the date in the date position. You'll know right away if you got it right or not. It'll either not budge or may even pop right off if the jumper spring didn't engage right. Make absolutely sure you check each function of the date change (manually and by time setting) at each stage of the re-assembly to avoid frustration.

I've always suspected the gap was just from new gaskets being installed. Being new and not compressed may give the fraction of a mm to lift the crown slightly. That's what happened when I installed a new set in my 1675. And @Ronin - I agree with the profile of the knurled area statement. The bigger bevel on the bottom and the thinner knurled area on 702 looks very different from a 703 in this regard as well.

I tend to agree with those who feel the rep factories catch heat the closer things get to gen. Remember about 6 years ago when the Omega reps got the HE valves, pearls, and seamonsters right? My son had one and we compared it to a gen - the tell was only the angle of the points on the hands. A set of gen hands from ofrei could easily fix that and make it a super rep. Then all those little signs started appearing in cases next to Omega's at AD's about anything purchased anywhere but an AD was fake. Right after that, the pearl went to crap and the HE valve went back to the 10 position, and later on "happy feet" developed.

Sorry, the pics I'd post would only make you laugh or cry. It's been my experimental watch for all my first attempts. I've used the dial for everything from experiments of lume recipes to possible lacquer repairs mostly gone wrong. The rest of the watch is the same with two different crown guards and lugs holes (one with a broken bit lodged in it).

This is really going to be a nice piece! The nipple dial is certainly different and like you said, I haven't seen a GMT rep with one either. My very first rep was a TT black nipple dial sub. I would be careful about plating the hands though. Is it really cost effective? I'd be worried that the plating would necessitate re-broaching the hands to fit again. There are a few dealers who sell the gold GMT sets. If I recall correctly with the DG3804 (good choice BTW ) you can use a set designed to fit a 1570 movement, only the minute (or is it the hour hand?) needs to be opened up a tiny bit. Akira? Rolexaddict? Ronin? One of you knows for sure which one. Keyless works are easy to fix, however if you do order a new DG3804, order it from rafflestime and not cousins because the rafflestime one will come with a datewheel overlay already on it that is very very close to a rolex service date wheel. Great project! Looking forward to more pics!

Fine - here you go. Took these from my office a couple days ago. Sorry for the blur - it was a bit bumpy

Even though soooo much is inaccurate - I love the show! Catch it every week and we watch it on On Demand when nothing else is on. And I posted an annacronysm to IMDb about the watch already Only watch nerds would catch something like this.

Love the dial! The markers are definitely unique. My silver with gold marker has markers that look like that from front on, but from the side are angle cut like a barn roof. Very nice (and glad to read you brushed the lugs - they were a bit distracting in my book)

I've had fitment problems with WO hands. And while we love Clarks for many things, their Sub Mercedes hands are off, particularly the hour hand.

Nope, not the light. Look closely at the bottom left. The end link isn't fit right, it's actually jutting out and over the lug. Also, you can see the end of the spring bar pin peeking out from the lug and from both of the top lugs. I know the bands and end links on the lady's DJ's are kind of wacky, but this really looks aftermarket/rep to me. I agree with KBH. You have to crack the back

Nice way to celebrate!

I'd be very interested in the hands. Has your watchmaker told the owner that putting a modern dial - and I'm assuming by modern he means glossy dial with Luminova and metal surrounds and not a tritium dial- that a.) the dial feet will need to be removed and the dial mounted in a mikey mouse way because of the different calibers b.) it will now say "date" at the end of O..P.. c.) will destroy the value to anyone whom he intends to sell it to in the future. A 1998 or later dial on a 1970 watch. . .As you said. Some people shouldn't have nice watches.

Thanks! And yes, Gen C&I rivet. I bought it a while back for my 5512. I've got a gen jubilee on my franken Datejust I can change things up with too. No. No it did not. I got three of these from Ofrei. One for this, one for my SMP GMT, and a spare. And they all had the standard ol' datewheel. Yours looks like an overlay too, as you can't see the teeth, and I'm curious what that little tab between 16 and 17 is. In the second pic, there appears to be another clip or somethingorother opposite it under the 1. IIRC, didn't you say your 3804 came from rafflestime?