highoeyazmuhudee

could be a wm9

ive compared the ofrei pearl with a gen lumi pearl side by side the ofrei one has a slightly larger diameter, the paste isnt as white, more greenish. and the dome is curved to almost a point, where as the gen is more flat. i think if you remove the luminous paste and polish the top its a REALLY good replacement pearl

is it too much to hope theyd make a nice 1520/30 movement, or even a proper GMT. if they were asking which movement to rep i dont think the 3135 would be at the top of the list

one day i plan to buy a gen 14060. cheapest ive seen one is $3400 recently

yeah i quite miss it actually, but its been long gone now.

file down the CGs, disassemble, remove the retaining ring, crystal , etc drill the lug holes @1.25mm remove the crown tube, push an M3 tap through there, countersink the hole repolish case parts that need it install a new 703 tube install the missing factory gasket on the mid case top part (greased) you can use iodine on the markers to tint them or you can also paint them, same with the hands bake the dial for 5 minutes matte spray the dial with krylon to give it a textured look reassemble the rest bleach the insert for a couple minutes if you wish, maybe give it a small scratch across one side of the insert (crown side) you could also make a few scratch around the lug holes as you would see after years of removing the bracelet yourself could also dremel the case bevel a bit to soften it

thats MBK for ya. dirty movements NO quality control, ive had a few of their movements stick as well, disassemble, a slight cleanup and a regulation fixed it right up, not entirely sure what was sticking though. i have found: 2834 movements, un oiled seagul movements, and a few clone movements in their cases. if its a 5513 with the date mech removed i found those to be problematic without a proper after purchase QCing. it could be several things though. bad gear train meshing, barrel slipping, grimmy pallet forks. just get it serviced, or buy a replacement 2846, or NEW 2836 selitta movement. cheaper and more reliable. if its a vintage sub you ll want the slow beat movement anyways.

hah, what a goof, he always seems very apathetic, i dont believe he has the aptitude or tact to run a city of millions. his interviews and statements are the worse, always shutting his eyes mid sentence like his spinning the situation in his head, gliding on words while he searches for new ones while speaking. it does not come off as trustworthy IMO

with all these new Tudors being built everyday. i think i might try one out. so the first step is the shopping list. since my watch of choice is a 5513 no date i think i ll try out a 9411 snowflake date, no better time to be rocking a date sub when you can get a proper eta datewheel and not have to worry about aligning a sticker. im not entirely familiar with the subtle nuances of tudor subs like i am with vintage rolex subs. so i need help identifying as accurate as can be reproduction pieces. to start off this dial. any opinion on how accurate it is? whats better, whats your first choice? hands: again how accurate are yukis? what should one look for i also found these with this dial... (both of which are NOT yukis) date wheel from WSO, ive decided not to make a roulette date sub how is it? whats better? what would you buy? lastly... is a 2836 acceptable for this model? i know these watches are 28,8K bph but i cant help but notice people building tudors try and source a 2784, is this for completeness or is there some function that is slightly different with these? as far as i can tell the movements are similar in function.

oh WOW! wrist envy

very nice! get some lug holes on it and youll be the envy of most people here

looking forward to these pictures

that looks great! starting to regret sticking an ofrei lumi pearl in my 80s 5513 insert

very good touch are they reasonably priced?

tis no MBW, the updated mbw is actually what we call the TW sub. buy it and you will not find a gen like construction retaining ring.

nah save the money for a TW. the fact that the inside engraving of the caseback says 18k 750 you know its a street quality rep. the caseback gasket is also thinner than the standard gen size. for $300 having no gen parts fit is a waste of money.

compared to gen the PT 580s are too tall, you need to squish em down a bit, i used a vise.

no date is king! love em, gen can be had for less than $3,500, why would i need to know what the date is 300meters below? theyre also thinner in profile, i dont really like tall watches, the 1665 looks amazing but i hate the way it sits. there are NO good 14060 reps, NONE. maybe you should give the 5513 a try a franken can be made for about $1grand no one will know unless they open it.

does rafflestime have a webstore? i know they re on ebay but on ebay they dont sell tudor dials. NEVERMIND, i google-fu'd it, never thought to check until this VERY moment

the problem is the 93250 has the clasp adjustment holes at a different height than on the 93150, the angle is off. the top of the extension sits higher in the clasp for the 93250 extension. at least this is my guess, but maybe im not understanding your question correctly

i wouldnt say "easily" for installing a hack lever at the noob level. 17 or 21 jewels i would choose 21 each and everytime, those non jeweled pivoting reversing wheels tend to stick over time, havnt had this problem on a 21j example.

why is a gen like movement so important? same underlying reason

good one

i actually use this first kit here http://www.giottos.com/CL.htm i found that microfiber cloth in this kit (and ive owned many from various places) to not leave a single scratch or smudge, even the solution in this kit is far superior to anything else ive ever used. these kits are inexpensive and ive cleaned many dirty grimmy gloss dials with them, when complete they were perfect, no prints or scratches in any light. also keep in mind when handling the cloth that your finger grease is getting absorbed by the cloth by you handling it, so keep one end primarily as the business end. i also roll my cloths to a point for finer accuracy and more applied pressure. you have to wipe the grease clean across from where it is off the end of the dial to completely lift it away

did you just buy one stem? if so you might be waiting for a few more before you can finish your watch. you can cut it approximate but its mostly trial and error to get it just right. you also have to factor in rounding the end or you could very likely cross thread your crown barrel (which happened to me). its safe to have 3-5 in reserve just in case. the stems have that little bump towards the end to keep it from being pushed too far in the movement. if you measure from where the bump would sit out side the movement when its in the winding position to the end of the crown tube with calipers that is approximate , cut - then fine tune the length -just grind it down from there with a dremel wheel, keep it plumb flat. round the end of the stem against a round wheel like on a lathe, demagnetize and youre done. some people might tell you, just cut it and youre done, and who knows maybe you ll get lucky by doing just that.