highoeyazmuhudee

glad youre aware whats involved, its a labour and investment of love truly, if you ever sold it you would not recoup your investment. im personally in almost 1K on a franken late 80s 5513, but i love the transitional no date subs so im ok with that the bracelets are all wrong. the mbk 93150s are actually 93250s with a 93150 engraving, there are many details that are found on the modern subs that shouldnt be there on the vintage bracelets. many can not be corrected with modding. i have no personal experience with pbdad, so i can not say. there are a few people around here, if they wish to make themselves known im sure they will do so, but case work is seen as a chore especially if it isnt your piece. you might enjoy modding your own watch and find satisfaction in that. it also becomes addictive and a money pit in itself buying the correct tools and crafting your piece. as i see it really only the cases are usable on the MBKs, thats still more value than other vintage reps have. if youre serious about having the best DRSD, id suggest: NDT dial relumed by zig or vac 702 crown and tube from marsupilami as the gen would very hard to source as i maybe see 1-2 gens for sale a year. gen insert, pearl, no pearl whatever drill out the lug holes get 2mm aftermarket bars from WO the cgs need a bit of work, not too bad on the SD cases remove the caseback paint (very easy to do with some acetone and a pin) gen crystal gen clasp endlinks im not familiar how much the mbk 1665 vary from the gen, but the 5513 ones were no good. slow beat ETA, serviced and regulated by The Zigmeister mbk hands are decent, match the lume leave the he valve alone unless you got money left over at the end and youre feeling daring. this is the plan i would follow based on the MBK case, some people might say otherwise

actually i recall sean at etaswiss had this production line showcased well before angus even had it in his catalogue. its just that angus is an affiliated dealer and sean is not, so everyone bought from him and wrote about it.

its def stock, needs a lot of work to be brought uotp par, luckily shes got good bones to start with ; ) the list of mods you got there would take some time for sure, easily an 8 hour+ day. the bracelet is also completely wrong be prepared to spend close to $700 if you want it close to right

the 4 on your insert is from the first gen LV i try and avoid this style as a high percentage of aftermarket inserts use the squared 4

i'd buy from vrf, sellers often double list on ebay simultaneously for hundreds more because of ebays outrageous associated fees. so i would avoid ebay and stick with the wis veterans on vrf for a good deal and after service. of course with everything in life be vigilant of scams as they do occur from time to time. good recent deals seem to be with the 14060 no date which can be had for around $3200-$4100 depending on age and the 16800 date averages $3400-4000. my preference would be for the 14060, that little cyclops becomes an eyesore.

the PT outter CGs need doing as well, they look like cuspids. pt was first to the market which is why its referred to as 'his' pro watch polo also carries the same line as does sean

a wm9 dial is decent enough v2 is better because of the superlume but even a noobmariner dial is just as good, all it needs is some SL. a wm9 dial is reminiscent of 2007/08 noob dial is from 2004/2005 model sub let me ask; what kind of time is that movement keeping?

i dont think its exclusive to him.

careful using a file i always seem to break off the tips in the hole. +1 for the screw extractor

you put in a gen movement before changing the insert. get some proper hands... then its complete

it was from ETZ before he disappeared, i remember reading a review of speedmaster pros from various dealers on RG and apparently 'river' had the best one and so did ETz so i ordered from him since river never returned my emails. then modded it; froze the 12 hour sub dial, painted the rehaut satin black and removed the sapphire crystal putting in a plexi crystal from Andy

yuki for sure, but even those arent quite right

ive seen gen 1680s with weak mags, most common are the over magnified ones however. one MUST also factor in the depth of the rehaut and the effect of magnification at different distances. does your case have the right depth to magnify the date more? compare with gen

the correct answer is me, and a few others http://www.flickr.com/photos/43703575@N05/sets/72157624860081812/

there IS a lot of variation. my advice is go find a gen to inspect in person, seeing youre in the UK that shouldnt be too hard. the ones i was looking at in hong kong seemed to be sharp looking at the end almost claw shaped.

looks good to me the thin font isnt to my taste, but this is how the modern inserts are 80s insert

theres a 127 crystal here http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160565580633&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

if its a true Polex case a gen dial will fit, i know this factually. so base your search off the gen dimensions

looks like its coming along, i suggest everyone building a vintage project go seek out the gen and hold it in your hands, its a very educational experience. youll discover some subtleties that were easily over looked. if youre in the U.S you could always buy this gen 127 http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160565580633&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

finally what ive been trying to articulate has been illustrated nicely. the fake hands have that longer piece protruding from the base because they also serve the purpose of being on a GMT with that 24hour hand having a band around the pinion, the fake hands are always correct for a gmt but completely wrong for a SUB, even subs from 40 years ago

old topic but ive been far far away, having just shot an AK47 in Cambodia and an M16 I would have to choose the latter in a battle of the assault rifles. less kick and NO barrel wobble. Wonder why the AK always takes the spotlight...

bracelets the easiest part. remove the clasp, put the bracelet in a vise, drill with 2mm and 3in1 oil. the actual endlink widen the loops by hand with a pin vise and the same 2mm bit.

story goes, theyre painted and eventually flake off into the movement from natural friction. in short avoid the eta clone that resembles a rolex movement

mr.piek changes his source every week. sometimes its cambodia, sometimes its even europe, which he blames multiple times for the rising prices of parts (the price of the euro) i truly believe it to be small scale taiwan manufacturing, and ive even narrowed it down to a few factories, but the true identity of his secret i assume will die with him as ive tried to pry this information on many a visit. once he even said seiko manufactures it for him. but i agree it might be time to find somewhere else to shop for several reasons.

datewheels a little thick too, gmt hand lacks lume, dial font, coronet. i wouldnt buy it, the second any one who knows sees the bezel youre labeled