tomhorn

I had both of mine serviced and the date mechanisms removed because they were going in no-date builds (1016,5514). I got lucky, because both were running great prior to my shipping them off though. There was an eBay seller in the Philippines that always seemed to have several "Swiss Military" watches for sale.

The answer is that they are likely trying to fit the case to some other already existing parts so they don't have to re-engineer those too. Or, they could just be reps ...

The gen 162xx case is going to be a lot more than $150 now. Probably at least double. You also can't find a Stilty ring anymore as he's been gone for a long time. There are other options for a 3135 based case, like raffles-time or TC. As for the 2846, I must have gotten lucky. I found two in Swiss Military donor watches for $30 each ...

$900 is an insane price to pay for a case. I built mine with a gen Rolex 16014 case and JMB bezel. Cost less than half that. JMB's case is great, and you can't beat the price. I would have used one of them myself if they were available at the time of my build.

You're missing the one view that's needed ... the profile. Would be hard to beat JMB's case set for his price point. Since you haven't told us the price, it's hard to give an opinion.

Plenty of threads about people receiving these letters on all the various boards. The advice is pretty much the same no matter what country you are in. Ignore the letter. Don't respond unless you are forced to, and only then answer that you never ordered the item and have no idea why it would have been sent to you. Also, send a copy the original letter to your dealer. Most of them have policies about how to deal with customs seizures.

That's the two-tone version of the 8926 I mentioned above.

My signature is gone.

Just watch one episode of a ShopNBC (or whatever they are called now) and it will tell you all you need to know. They have had two good offerings (IMO), the Rolex 16610 clones 8926 (Myota movement)/9937(ETA movement), and the SubAqua Noma III. Everything else they make are pretty ugly and HUGE.

You need to do a bunch of reading up on different versions of the Daytona reps. Personally I would avoid the one's with the seconds at six problem movements, and go for the 21j if I just had to have one.

Be patient, Admin is in the process of doing an upgrade. Everything isn't back up and running yet.

It looks like a post.

^ congrats on passing 3000 ...

Yep, that's what the rep actually looks like. Sunken datewheel and subdial spacing are off. It's a beautiful watch in it's own right, just not accurate to the gen.

When I had a site taken down that was trying to hold ransom for a variation of a domain name one of my clients had and was using our logo to make the site look like ours, I dealt with the domain registrar exclusively. My guess is a government agency our court issued an order for the confiscation of the domain name and the registrar complied. The site owners may not have even been notified, or were notified after the fact. The actual webpages themselves probably never moved servers. The site owners just bought another domain name and pointed it to the existing server.

That's a pic of a gen. The rep has different subdial spacing and sunken datewheel. The reps do have a working power reserve, BTW.

I could do without the reminders that "this site uses cookies" that I have to click away every time I come in to the site. Once when I get to the homepage and once when I log in. The site works perfectly fine with the browser settings regarding cookies that I have set up (which is refusing all third party cookies). Also, it appears the Tapatalk linking to images is not working.

One sold on RepGeek with an asking price of $875 last month. http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=255064

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The 16710 isn't really a good "build" watch. You're better off doing a 1675. Parts are more readily available, the build is easier and you get a correct hand stack. If you must go down the 16710 path, then I would read up on the various build threads that are posted here. Especially BK's where he talks about using an Explorer case as the base.

Since you are in the US, I would start by checking with misiekped here on RWG to see if he can handle everything you need. He did excellent work on my 5514 build. PBdad did a great job on my 1016 build, so he is another option. Depends on what exactly you want to have done.

It's 42mm, so it's no problem. I have a 44mm PAM and a 44mm BCE that are also OK.. Anything bigger starts to look clownish on me. As much as I love the Big Pilot, I just can't pull it off.

You don't need to get the rotor, and if you do, you will probably need to get a caseback as well. Your winding problem has to do with the stem or the crown. Most likely the stem was cut to the wrong length. Whomever you send it to for the other upgrades you are thinking about can fix it at the same time they do the service.

3717 on 6.75" wrist works just fine ...