tomhorn

We're talking about the dial, not the movement. Big difference.

The cartel Daytona will work with just fine with a v72 (or gen) dial. You just have to move the already frozen hour counter subdial hand to the proper position. It's a realtively easy job as pictured in my link above. If someone is OK with the incorrect dial spacing, then buying the cartel Daytona is no worse an option than the DW, and you can actually find one now. It's also less expensive than the DW.

A 16610 does not have a ceramic bezel insert. Are you talking bout a 16610 or a 116610?

As long as the price is reasonable, I'd go vintage.

Well, I don't know if you want the bad news now, or later, but that's not a gen dial. It actually looks like one of the dials from the eBay seller in India. As for making it fit, you have to move the pinion/hand for the hour counter. There are plenty of posts on how to do it. Start here: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/136033-modding-the-cartel-vintage-daytonas-for-proper-sub-dial-spacing/

These are the v1 version of the TC hands. I don't mind the length, but would probably upgrade if a proper length hand was readily available.

TC offered the YM before. This is a sticky in his section: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/155109-615-tc-factory-direct-yacht-master/ And, and there are probably 20-30 more posts about it here alone. You can start with these: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/150293-tc-ym-vs-sa3135-ym-comparison/ http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/147303-tc-ym/ http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/162484-tc-ym-unpacking-photos/ http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/165958-factory-ym-from-tc-plenty-of-pics/ Unless he informs us differently, I'm guessing the current offering is made up of the same parts except for the new (and better) dial, and he's upgraded his hands and DWO since then.

There was a very large post about the new dial, and a whole bunch of other posts from people who bought the first one he released. Might want to do some reading.

Assuming it's gen, that's a decent (but not great) price if it's been serviced recently. Having said that, IMO you should never put a gen modern Rolex movement in a franken build. They cost too much to make the franken build economically smart. For example, if you take one of these, buy a TC Sub case and bracelet, then add a gen dial and hands, crown and crystal, you are going to be over $3,000. You can buy a gen Sub for less than $5,000 if you shop well.

Although I'm not nearly the Daytona expert that Freddy is, I'm a big fan of the gen crystal swap. The gen T-21 is not that expensive. They can be had for $100-$125. Yes, you do have to sand the bezel slightly, but they make a big difference IMO over the stock DW crystal. I would do it, and then add a gen crown and bracelet. Puts you in the $1,000 pricepoint, which IMO is about as much as you'd want to spend on a 7750 based Daytona.

You need a Rolex 25-21, otherwise known as a T-21 or Tropic 21. I have bought from this guy before, and received a genuine service crystal. Price is good too. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rolex-Service-Crystal-21-NOS-For-6262-6263-6239-DAYTONA-/381332780200?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item58c93474a8

Gen 7835's aren't that expensive and fit OK on a DW case. These are 357 endlinks.

Welcome to the club!

Spin used to remove the rotor and remove the auto-winding gears. Maybe it's one of his builds?

A lot of it is lighting. Mine was that way too before I sold it off to the scamming SOB watchmaker from Chicago who shalt not be named .... Hard to tell from this pic though because it was taken straight on.

Damn, that's nice. May be time to add a YM to my collection if the rest of it comes out as well as the dial.

I'm sure you know more now from hanging out here, but to my knowledge a true Swiss ETA movement wasn't ever offered in a Daytona rep, and even if the base movement had been ETA, it would have had a whole bunch of Chinese parts added to it to move the running seconds from the 9 o'clock position to 6 o'clock. Unfortunately for you (assuming a premium was paid for the ETA upgrade) is that what you have there appears to be a standard A2813 movement. When put in a Daytona, that means non working chronograph. It's the cheapest possible option you could have for a movement. Also love the 16610 (Submariner reference) on the bracelet. You are looking at the typical "canal Street" rep Daytona. Amazing that it's been a good watch for that long really. These are available now for less than $150 at most of the TD's. Your other option would be to have someone replace the movement, or service it, but you'd be better off just picking up a new one.

We have an entire section of the forum for trusted dealers.

It's a good looking piece, but I have heard they were having some QC issues with the Soprod GMT movements. At least it's a gen and has some warranty if needed ...

I saw Rush again on the R40 tour a few weeks ago. They are every bit as good now as they were when I first saw them in the late 70's. Better in some ways actually. If they still have stops in your neck of the woods, all I can say is GO!

As a general rule, I will never send money as a gift. You lose any chance at recourse if the deal goes bad. Send it normally and pay the fee so the seller gets the amount you agreed upon. If the seller refuses, then don't do the deal. My exceptions to the rule are if the amount is insignificant, or I have done business with the seller before and don't care if I lose both the money and whatever I am purchasing.

Yes ... unfortunately, just like with the 93150's, there is no good rep of the 78360.

No, you can't buy just the case from a TD. Have to buy the whole watch. You can sell off whatever parts you don't use to recoup some of the money.

If you want to be period correct for that model, then no, they are not "real" (I assume you mean gen) references for a 162xx DateJust bracelet. The correct Oyser bracelet is a 78360, and would have 78360 on both the endlinks and on the clasp. Unfortunately, there aren't any really good rep 78360's. I'd probably go with Yuki's. Wrong markings, but it's OK. Or you could try Wholesale Outlet's unbranded one, and get a gen clasp.

I switched from buying reps directly to doing vintage Rolex franken builds myself ... although not remotely close to your level. Anyone who asks "Who has the best ... ?" can find the answer somewhere in your collection of builds. As great as all of them have been, if I could have just one, this would be it.