tomhorn

You buy them directly. Clearly your one post message is just an excuse for you not wanting to bother to search, because he has an entire section here, which you would have found if you looked around. http://www.rwgforum.net/forum/280-tc-submariner/

Nope. Not a v72. Looks like a Landeron to me. Probably a 248.

You don't want to know the journey my 6263 went on ... Plattsburg, NY - 12/9 Springfield, MA Federal Way, WA (yes, it went all the way to Washington State from the east coast) Kent, WA Tampa, FL Sarasota, FL Clearwater, FL then to me (finally) - 12/16 This was a Priority Mail (2 day) package. USPS is not eactly the most reliable shipper. When you get it back, file a complaint and ask for your shipping money back.

I would be interested to know more about the air quality monitoring.

When you start with real money trading (no matter what you are trading) the most difficult parts will always be money management and your bankroll. You didn't mention the "period of time" or the amount of money you had in play with your practice accounts. That is very important information. My general rule is to make sure your practice account has had enough time to show you both profits and losses. I would also suggest that your practice account trades mean nothing if you are trading significantly more/less money than you would be trading in live currency. For it to be a fair reflection of your strategies, you need to run your test over a long period of time and with the bankroll you want to actually put into play with live money. Anyone can succeed for a day or a month. Over the long term takes better models and discipline. Once you have a good enough dataset, look through your practice account trading and find the longest period of time where you lost money and what that amount looked like. Make sure you have more than that in your bankroll to get started. Discipline is all about being able to survive the swings. You have to be able to make sound decisions when you are doing well, or are getting killed. With that in mind, I would only start with a bankroll you don't care about losing. Seriously, just write it off as a loss on the first day, that way you won't be worried about it. Assuming you have some success, when you've doubled up the first time, take your initial investment back. When you've doubled up again, that is the time to start raising your incremental trades. Every time you double up, increase your incremental trades. If you slip back, lower them. And the most important rule, never be afraid to sell. This goes for both winning and losing positions.

Chances are that even if the ETA stamp is there, it's not necessarily a gen ETA. When buying from a dealer (trusted or not), I would not recommend buying the ETA. At best you will get a Swiss movement that is from an old watch and needs to be serviced. At worst you will have paid the higher price for an ETA clone anyway. Better to buy the clone movement and save the money, IMO.

That really is a good looking case. Can't beat it for the money. Would definitely recommend to anyone that they save themselves a lot of headaches (and money) by going that route. I've got my 1016 on the wrist now. Hard to imagine Whoopy's dial getting any better, but I'll be interested to see it.

You wouldn't happen to have a spare panda dial from that batch by any chance?

Well done ... another satisfied member of the club ...

Depending on the parts being used and whether or not there are any tricks to getting it together because of them, I would not send a project like that to someone who wasn't highly skilled, and preferably had done one before. For example, if using a DW case, his QC wasn't all that great so the movement might not fit without some work. If you are replacing pushers or the crown, you might have to re-tap the case, etc. Far better to send it to someone with experience, then try to find a local guy to take your chances with.

Back to the 5514 today ....

eBay always has a ton of Rolex dials. I would start there. You can also look for them at VRF. For example, here is a very nice black dial. http://www.network54.com/Forum/207673/message/1382688772/

and more than one thread on the same topic ... you're having a banner day today.

The TC hands would be better than the Clark's. If you are going to all the work, the few extra dollars would be worth it.

Have been there myself. I actually worked selling high end audio in Minneapolis, so it was an easy trip ...

Another great bit of skill from the JMB factory ...

He played Thriller because he thought I could 'relate' to it ... Was mostly a classical guy for himself. Was hilarious because he was visibly pi$$ed at me when I said it, and never acknowledged I was right after he bought the sub ... good thing I didn't marry his step daughter. Would have made for ugly family dinners ... I personally loved building inexpensive systems of great quality. Was always a challenge to find different pairings of equipment that worked well together. I normally had a low powered tube amp paired with a Klipsch Heresy, Forte or Cornwall in my apartment during the day. For rock and blues, it was a great pairing. You had a speaker that was designed like most live venue gear, with the edge taken off by the tube amp. There were a lot of small shops putting out great tube gear that no one had heard of. Especially in the UK. I settled on an Audio Research D76/SP14 combination once I bought a house. Audio Research had some great gear, but buying used was the way to go. That stuff held up forever as long as you took care of it.

I sold high end gear myself for several years. I loved selling to people who thought things were better because they cost more. Plenty of "audiophiles" fell into that group. Funniest story I had from back in the day was going to meet my (then) girlfriend's step father who had about $20k wrapped up in a Linn turntable, Accoustat speakers, and Levinson Amp/Preamp. He asked me what I thought of the sound while he was playing Michael Jackson's Thriller. Told him his low end was rolling off hard below 100hz. He told me I was nuts. Next time I stopped by there was a Velodyne sub sitting in the corner ...

Today, that mid to late 60's 1016 wouldn't have much if any glow left to it. The tritium would have faded. Out in the wild, most tritium dials of that era would have some sort of patina on them, so I wouldn't go with a pure white re-lume. Do a Google search and find a dial you like the looks of and get the dial/hands done to match it. How far you go is a matter of personal taste. I didn't go too far on mine, which is also a Whoopy dial. PBdad did the lume.

Wearing this out and about tonight ....

I used a 2846 in my 5514 with HH's case. You can find them nearly that cheap in donor watches too.

If all that needs to be done is replacing the movement holder screw, there is no reason you can't do it yourself. If it's more than that, I would get a professional to do it. Any watchsmith that is rep friendly could certainly do it for you.

Looks like the movement holder screw. If that's all it is, then you could remove the caseback and put it back in place yourself. Goes in that open hole just below the rotor at what would be 2 o'clock in your picture above.

Do I get a commission on every dial sold? Or a free one?

Subdial spacing and the thickness of the case are the big tells, other than the pushers mentioned above. Valjoux 72 based builds are the closest looking to gen, but also the most expensive and difficult to source parts to put together. This is what one looks like ... Toro's is based on the ST-19 movement. The 6 o'clock subdial is too low on the dial and the hand is fixed (doesn't move). It also has the dreaded 110 spacing issue on the bezel. You can modify the movement to fit it to a gen spec dial, but it involves some work.