tomhorn

+1 on the TC hands. I used them on my 5514 with a 2846, no issues. Cwazy (over on RWI) did my hands (and dial). Thanks again for the case HH ...

If you are staying with the black insert go for the regular dial. They're cheaper too, so an added bonus.

While I can't speak to the quality of his pearls, Athaya is great to deal with. I used his 702 crown/tube on my 5514. Good stuff!

1016 builds just keep getting better and better. Nice work!

The best rep 93150 bracelet is still the old school MBW hollow midlink version. It's far from perfect, but it's the best aftermarket option. They are hard to find, but come up in M2M sales from time-to-time. I was fortunate enough to grab one from denimhead for my 5514. It's got a bit of stretch, and I am looking for a gen clasp, but it's a lot less $$$ than a gen. I wish TC would take up this project. I reckon he would sell a ton of them.

MoaB is like Chuck Norris ... you don't contact him .... he contacts you ....

IMO, the DateJust is the easiest franken build to do. If you like the look, I'd start there. Easy to find gen or aftermarket cases without spending an arm and a leg, and also lots of gen dials are available. Depending on which version you choose, an ETA 2824 or 2836 movement fits easily. There is also our fine member mymanmatt who is a great resource for building them if you don't want to do it yourself.

It does the trick ...

You have to contact moderator Mike On a Bike for the upgrade process information.

As automatico said, search is your friend in this (and any other 'I want to build") case. I'm not saying that to be flippant because you are a new member. Anyone wanting to do a build (of anything, not just a Daytona) should do A LOT of research first. It will save you time and money. Sometimes a lot of both. For the vintage Daytona, there are so many different ways to tackle the build that members could spend days giving advice. In order to answer your question, you need to start at the end, and work your way backward. If you are going to build a Daytona, you need to figure out where you want to end up and how much money you want to spend first, because the base you select to start with has to lead you down the right path. The two most common ways to build: Valjoux 72 based builds: Best - Phong case, various gen parts Next Best - DW case, various gen parts Then you have the Valjoux (or Asian) 7750 based builds. The most popular of those is the "Spinmaster" which used a DW case (which is different from the v72 case), and modified A7750 movement which removes the auto-winding parts to convert it to manual like the gen (automatico described it above). You can also build one yourself (Spinmaster was just the modder that built them) by getting the parts together. You can use some gen parts, but keep in mind the case is thicker than a gen case because the movement is thicker. If you go with the cartel or ST-19 base watches, you have less ability to mod them. Obviously the Valjoux 72 builds are going to end up being the most accurate, but they are also very expensive ($2,000+++ depending on the gen parts you use).

If only the unknown source could produce another one ... that's awfully good! I'm looking for a replacement for this one (one of the great early DW's, but with a slight flaw):

Love that dial! Back to the 5514 for me today!

Clip the dial feet and/or reposition them. You will also need new hands.

Whoopy x2 1016 - Lumed by PBdad 5514 - Lumed by Cwazy

Won't work unfortunately. The height differences in the movement prevent it. The 3035 is thicker above the crown position. This means in order to get a 3135 to fit, you would have to lengthen the cannon pinions to get the hands in the proper position to clear the dial (for which parts aren't available), and you'd have to put in a dial spacer to get the dial up to the rehaut. You might also have to machine the OD of the case. You'd probably be better using a TC or Sean case and drilling lugholes if you want to use that movement. Not perfect, but it will at least work. Just thought of something ... you didn't specify which case you were using, or which movement was currently in the watch. If you have a watch with an ETA (or clone) 2824, then it should work.

I wish my rep watch box cost that little ...

I didn't have to do anything to Mary's 7836 for my build, but I did use the WSO 580 endlinks for fat spring bars instead of what came with it. I used a gen 16014 case, and the lug holes did have to be drilled to accommodate the Aussie springbars.

The best aftermarket option is the "Aussie" aka "Fasci" springbars from eBay seller "twente(o)".(http://www.ebay.com/sch/twente%28o%29/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=). This assumes your case accepts the fat springbars, or has been drilled to accommodate them, and that your endlinks can accept the fat springbars as well.

They have several versions of the 580's. Make sure you get the right ones for the bracelet you are using (7836, 93150, etc). Also, if you are using fat springbars, make sure you pick the one's that accept them.

A few more quick shots:

Damn ... how did I miss that thread? Thought I had looked everywhere .... Thanks!

ewatchparts = wholesaleoutlet = WSO (same company) I know others have had issues, but every transaction I have done with them has gone smoothly. I have bought two sets of 580s that both fit perfectly. Just make sure you get the correct version for your bracelet and springbars. PS ... they are not from Australia

Today's the day for vintage Sub builds ... nice job with yours as well! I feel you on the shipping. I have a post coming on my new Daytona. That thing went from NY to MA, to WA for two stops, and then to three stops in FL before it finally got to me. Two day mail that took 7 ....