tomhorn

I didn't realize the pictures enlarged when you click on them .... You are correct, dial is definitely not gen. Those are elevated markers, and the dial printing gives it away.

Difficult to tell for sure from these pics, especially since the dial has been relumed. Seeing the print close up and the dial texture would confirm it, but I'd say there's a better chance that it's gen than fake from what I can see here.

Get in touch with Vac. He can re-do the AR and clean everything up when he puts it back together. Impossible to say what the sale value is without pictures.

Other than gen, the only other one to consider would be the Sean case. I would just contact TC.

Sead can ship from the UK.

Unfortunately, there are no great rep 93150's. The best of the rep 93150's are the old hollow link MBW's. They are hard to find but come up in M2M sales from time-to-time.

I missed last month's contest. Does the build need to be completed in the current month?

Surprisingly not. At least more frequently anyway. While I also love going over build threads and learning things, I have had several people with less than 25 posts PM me on the various boards asking to just buy one of my builds, or ask "if I could just do it for them." They just don't want to be bothered with learning, or working on a project. They figure that anything that was custom built will be more convincing than off-the-shelf, and they just want something they can pass off as gen. I call this the Mayer effect. Nothing wrong with wanting to buy a finished product (that's why there are M2M sales after all), but I'm amazed at how often you can tell that people just don't care about the watch. Post #1, "Who has the best Sub?" Post #2 .... well, there isn't a post #2 because someone said buy a TC v6, which they did, and are never to be heard from again. The longer I've been here, the more I hate seeing this happen. As for doing builds, for me they fall into two categories. Those you are building to hold onto forever (and maybe even pass them down). Think one of UBI's builds, for example. Then there are those you build for the satisfaction of doing it, which may or may not be something you would ever sell. There should be a different mindset in those two types of builds. You can sink a lot more money into something you don't ever want to part with, as opposed to something you don't hold that kind of feeling for. Obviously life happens, and sometimes that piece you never thought you would sell has to be let go. Those will definietly be hard to deal with, both on a price and on an emotional level. If you sell the watch as a whole, you are probably going to lose money (often times a lot). Recouping your costs usually means parting things out, which is hard because of all the time and energy you put into the build. Examples of these types of builds include using gen Rolex movements, adding all of the Rolex bridges/parts to an elPrimero movement, using a Phong case or a gen dial when another option is available, etc. It's going for that last 5% of "perfection" that gets you into builds that are impossible to get your investment back out of when it comes to a sale. I have seen plenty of builds that are probably worth every penny of the money asked because of all the parts included, but the price-point gets too high except for a select few to afford. The whole concept of pricing yourself out of the market definitely applies. On the other hand, being very patient while buying parts, using ETA movements instead of gen, and only using the gen parts that are really necessary can get you a great build that can be turned easily wihout taking a big hit. Especially as parts prices escalate. I could easily sell my DateJust for more than I have into it (were I so inclined. I'm not, so no PMs, please. ), but in order for anyone else to do the same, they need to do a lot of research, and be patient enough to shop well. That doesn't come from joining a board, and asking a couple of people to spoon-feed you information or to just do things for you, without figuring some things out for yourself first.

I would go with the NYWatchGuy bezel for sure ... fix that 110 ... Also, it looks like you have a case with the older DW pushers (more teeth). You may want to swap those out for Ofrei's pushers, which I believe DW started using later in his production runs. Bad picture here, but the case I recently bought actually had one of each. New version on the left, old version on the right.

Any of the blue dialed 40mm PAMs would be great. PAM 282 comes to mind, but I don't know all of the model numbers of what has actually been rep'd. If she likes bigger watches, then a 113 or 114 with a croc strap in her favorite color would be an option too.

Pretty much all the TDs can get the same product, so send them pics of exactly what you want and ask if they can find one. Don't rely on their websites as far as inventory goes. As you have already seen, they don't always remove the watches that are no longer in production. You might be better off going with smaller TDs that actually go to the marketplace to find things, instead of the larger dealers that just drop-ship. It's quite possible that with smaller brand like B&R (which is not very popular in the grand scheme of things), you won't always be able to find a particular model. They were either never made, are no longer available after an initial production run, or were not repped that well because they didn't sell.

Coming soon to a wrist near me .... HH 5514 case Athaya 702 Crown / Tube Gen Tropic 19 Gen 5513 Insert MBW 93150 Bracelet WSO 580 endlinks Whoopy 5514 Dial - Lumed by Cwazy TC 16610 Hands - Lumed by Cwazy Swiss ETA 2846-2 movement from donor watch Star-Time RP23-1675SW Springbars I'll do a complete build thread once it reurns from misiekped ...

It's not only those who are looking for an out of the box rep. It gets even worse when people think they can do a complex build without doing any research. Can't tell you how many questions I get on the various boards about my builds ... most of which are clearly answered in my build threads. I mean, on one hand I'm a bit flattered that they at least read enough to figure out I might a good person to ask, but to ask something stupid like what parts I used on a build (when they are all clearly listed) makes me shake my head. I've actually told a couple of people not to even try a build and buy one that's already done, if they aren't going to bother learning about what they are getting into first. Like you (who helped me greatly on the 1016 build), I am a big believer in "pay it forward," and don't mind answering questions when it's clear the questions are coming from someone who has done at least some work on their own, but is just stuck or confused on something. Show me you've put some effort in, and I'll give you everything I know with pleasure. Expect to be spoon-fed? I'm not your guy either.

I have used both PBdad and Cwazy for Rolex dials, and Vac did my 3717. All did excellent work.

Rol-2123 is not a Rolex model number, so it's not much help. Also, the 7750 could have been used in either the modern, or vintage Daytona. It's bad in the modern Daytona due to the issues with the seconds at 6. Not bad in the vintage Daytona.

I'll defer to you on the PN dials. They have never been my cup of tea, so I haven't done quite as much research there ... Although I think he has been a bit flakey too as of late IIRC.

You're going to have to narrow it down a lot to get any help. What's the model number of the Daytona for starters, since you can't post a link? Also, as a general rule of thumb, no one is going to recommend you buy anything from someone that isn't on the trusted dealers list. Do so at your own peril. There are hundreds of threads about both the modern and vintage Daytonas. Reading through those will tell you what your options look like and what the pitfalls are (like the seconds at six movement problem in the modern Daytona reps that are based on the 7750).

The one's mentioned above. They are actually for my in-transit 5514 project ... Star Time Rolex-Style Springbars RP23-1675SW

Thanks. Unfortunately, I can't get them to give me an account. Anyone know of another non-direct source for finding the Star Time springbars?

Read. More than you have. The answers are all out there, and the vintage Daytona is not an easy project. For that matter, building any watch requires a lot of research. Too many new members want to skip this part, and get into trouble by going down the wrong path for themselves because they don't know what they are really trying to do. The long-standing members of the site do not tell new members to read, or search, because we are being watch snobs or just like being hard on "Noobs". It's done because we want you to learn and know what you are getting yourself into. We could point you at countless threads where someone bought a part and didn't realize it wouldn't work with the other parts they had, or it forced them to go down a path with a build they didn't want to travel (like spending way more than necessary). It's nearly impossible to give any kind of relevant advice on any build without knowing answers to a lot of questions that you will need to figure out on your own. For example, what is your budget? Do you want to build one yourself from parts, or want one pre-built? What flaws are acceptable to you (there is no such thing as a 1:1 perfect rep of any kind, especially a vintage Daytona)? You need to familiarize yourself with the model and the available options, decide which direction you want to go, and then ask for help if there are things you still don't understand or are confused about. Just to give you a little insight as to why this is important, let's look at your dial question. The best aftermarket Paul Newman dial is IMO the ingod44 dial for a v72 movement. So, if you want that dial, here are the challenges you will face. 1) Even though his site is still functional, ingod44 has seemed to have disappeared, so you likely can only get one in a M2M sale (if you are lucky). 2) You'll now have two build choices. Either build a v72 based watch (very expensive), or you can buy an ST-19 (aka Venus) based Daytona (the cartel Daytona), and mod the non working 6 o'clock subdial hand to fit the ingod44 v72 dial properly (there's a very informative thread about doing this already posted). So, for that dial (assuming you can even find one) your two choices are spend a lot of money, or have a watch that still isn't perfect even if it does have the best available dial. Have no idea if either is an acceptable option for you. Or, you could go a completely different direction if neither of those options sounds appealing. And that's why you need to do your own research, figure out what options are out there, and what path you want to go down. Members have written many posts about the builds they have done, why they chose to do it the way they did, and have posted pictures of the end results. You need to look at them and make your own decision about what's important to you.

There are literally hundres of vintage Daytona threads. Best advice we can give you is to start reading. You'll be able to tell what direction you want to go after you get familiar with the options. For example, start here ... it's only a few posts below yours. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/174385-best-6263-rep-currently-available/

This is the wrong place for a WTB. There is a whole section for this type of post. As for finding dials, the best place to look is eBay. Literally hundreds available daily. Before you go looking, you better make sure you know what case you are putting the dial in, so you buy the correct one.

Apparently "Bear at Door" is a legitimate excuse for not delivering ... https://twitter.com/IamFane/status/514629391394291714 https://twitter.com/IamFane/status/515280248485994496

I would not go with any dealer that isn't listed in our trusted dealer section. Many scam sites use gen pictures and you don't get anything different than what the TD's can get you, if you get anything at all. There is no 1:1 copy of anything. It's just a marketing term. Everything will have flaws.

Yep, it's going to be terrible here today. May get all the way down into the high 50's tonight. If this keeps up I may have to break out a long sleeved shirt ...