tomhorn

There are plenty of threads discussing the various cases, dials, hands, bracelets, and the pros/cons of each. No need to re-hash them here. The usual suspects have been around since before you joined the board and other than the minor generational version variances that come from buying counterfiet parts, they really haven't changed significantly. Those types of variances are well documented. See posts from members Valty, LHOOQ, Freddy333, etc. With a build like this you need to do a lot of research before you buy the first part.

Would the 2879 fit your case? They can be had on the bay NOS for $60 USD.

Of course he didn't.

Well, there's a big difference (for me at least) between having fun while getting drunk, and getting drunk and setting off to do something (which never ends well for me) .... chicken and the egg thing I suppose, but I do like a good tequila ....

Nothing good ever begins with So I got drunk and ...

Just contact one of the other dealers and tell them which watch you want. If Toro gan get it, then the rest of them should be able to as well.

In a lot of cases yes, there has been great improvement in the last 2-3 years. It really depends on the watch and your budget. Big difference between a Noob Sub and a TC Sub in terms of quality, but also in price. Most of the newer reps can be waterproofed to the same standards as a gen. Unfortunately, even though in some cases the QC is getting better, you are still looking at a product that was put together by relatively unskilled labor that was not built to the same tolerances as a gen. If you want to be sure, you need to have someone do the work and test it before hopping in the pool.

The dial should fit a Sean case as it's gen spec. If you are not using a gen movement, then you will have to clip the dial feet. You will probably also have to re-lume the hands to make them match the dial as the Sean YM had weak lume. If the watch above is the Sean case you're using, then you also need to add a crystal with a cyclops.

Adding a bunch of genuine Rolex parts to a rep movement is mad (or insert any synonym you'd prefer here). Just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should.

Even though I haven't taken off my just completed 1016 since it arived, my favorite is still my franken DateJust.

That wasn't directed at you ...

Thanks for spamming Alendera and bringing back to life a thread that's over a year old ...

As Rolexman said, there is nothing wrong with the A7750's that are not modified. If they have the standard 6/9/12 configuration they are fine. Once you try to move the running seconds from the 9 o'clock position is where you can run into trouble. The added gears are the culprits. Also, for the record, it doesn't matter whether it's an A7750 or ETA 7750, you have to be careful setting the day/date.

I don't believe the cartel case Explorers take gen spec parts. If you are looking to franken later, it might not be the best starting point. If you can find an MBW 1016, it's probably the best out of the box, but if you hope to go down the franken path later, I would start with JMB's case, or find a gen 1601, or 160xx case to build from.

I went franken (which I highly recommend) and my build thread is posted, but JMB was working on sourcing an inexpensive gilt Explorer dial which could be put into one of his cases. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/170741-a-couple-gilt-early-1016-dials-for-your-approval/ You could grab a different dial, but still use the rest of his parts if you don't like the gilt dial. Would give you a better watch than buying an off-the-shelf watch without spending that much more.

I had the slipping issue with the first ETA 2836 w/ GMT modification I owned. After getting it fixed I didn't have any problems, and I set the GMT hand often. I've had it for 6-7 years now, and am sure it is an actual ETA base. I'm also certain the GMT mod was probably done in China. Am guessing anything coming out now is probably a clone, even if described as ETA. The 3804 is a good movement, but he's looking at a watch that would be high beat so that's why I put it last on my list. If that's not an issue for the OP, then other than the 2893, it would be the best current option if the new clone 2836's are having significant slipping problems.

The DG3804B is the GMT version of the A2813. Low beat (so wrong for the watch you are talking about). It's a reliable movment. Appears to be the go-to movement for 1675 builds because of the hand stack being correct for that model and it being low beat. For the watch you are looking at, my personal order of preference for movements would be: ETA 2893 (if it's even available factory direct, otherwise it's a mod to be done later) ETA 2836 w/ gmt mod (assuming it's a real ETA) Asian 2836 clone w/ gmt mod DG3804B

That's actually horrible advice for someone who is trying to show something to a gen owner that is as close as possible. BK does a lot of work improving the stock watch, and can also add some gen parts if the OP wants him to. One stop shop for getting the best finished product. If the OP has the budget, then samsnelling has given him the right path to follow.

Last part I need for mine as well.

How long did it take for the crown to arrive? I ordered one a month ago and still haven't seen it.

Still haven't taken off the Explorer ...

I have pretty much moved over exclusively to building frankens for the same reasons others have posted. I enjoy picking up knowledge on the watches I want to build, and like the thrill of the chase for parts. I get a certain sense of pride from the process of getting everything to come together, and posting my build threads to help others follow my path. Having said that, I was actually pondering some of the things mentioned in this topic today, after viewing two sales posts on another forum. My quandary had to do with 'overbuilding'. I saw two beautiful frankens, one Daytona and one Sub that IMO were way overbuilt from a future sales standpoint. Both were probably priced reasonably for the parts that were in them, but the odds of actually selling them without breaking them apart I thought was pretty low because the prices were $5900 and $3000 respectively. There is definitely a point with every project where you can cross the line on any future sales opportunities without pulling everything apart and these two seemed to have done that. This is not only due to the franken vs gen price ratio, but also just in the actual cost itself. I know it only takes one buyer, but honestly, how many people on the various forums are going to want to invest $5900 (or even $3000) on a non gen watch? I would suspect there is even a relatively small subset of memebers that would spend that much on a gen (I do happen to be one that would pay that much for a gen). I know I would have a hard time piecing out my hard work to get the projects done. I'm sure the sellers probably feel the same. With both of these, IMO there was a lot of unnecessary parts added and work done with regard to the movements (which added significant costs to each build) for both of them, and since both were closed caseback watches no one was ever going to see it. My own philosophy thus far has been to try to do as good as I possibly can without breaking the (purely arbitrary) threshhold I think the watch could be reasonably sold for if I end up not liking it when I get it done. I am embarking on a v72 Rolex 6265 build right now, and I know finding a v72 movement is going to be expensive. I'm currently planning on doing things like using a DW case instead of Phong's, and I'm certainly not going to try to find a gen dial. Even by trying to build it with as low a cost as possible to get a quality finished product, I must admit I am wondering if this build is going to be pressing my luck. I can see going the extra mile for a piece you are going to keep forever, or are planning on passing down. See any of UBi's builds for example, or Valty's Daytonas among others. Even so, I still think there is a point beyond which even the non-tangible benefits don't justify the build cost. Must admit I am struggling with this one now.

Good luck on a gen dial. Prices on those are insane when you can find them. As others have mentioned using the black dial with gold subdials would be a fantasy build, and I would also use the gold hands. Otherwise pick up a correct dial for the 6239 case. Don't use the PN dial in that case.

And here I thought I did good on mine ... you've got my act beat by a longshot! Wear it in good health ...

^ Nice! Is that dial gen? Sure looks the part.