tomhorn

That would be a terrible choice .... Just kidding ... my 2009 s-line coupe says hello ...

the movements come up on eBay from time to time (although picking up a donor is easier), and I have seen them come up for sale on the boards. I haven't seen anyone post a direct source for just the movement. Also, Hamilton used the movement, so if you find one of those it will be cheaper than the Tag. I don't speak German, but here is one posted for sale in 2014 which isn't marked as sold yet: http://uhrforum.de/hamilton-chrono-mit-lemania-lwo-283-werk-t162298

When you are screwing in the crown, the movement should not still be winding. If it is, the stem length could be off, of there is a crown issue. Several people have posted that the LMPO is the new go-to watch for using as a base to build a PO franken. The gen parts are supposed to fit. There is a great guide from R2D4 on the genuine part numbers. Omega parts are readily available from places like Ofrei. I'm not sure if the LMPO parts are as easily available. There are plenty of build threads on this watch. Search a bit and you'll find all the info you need to get started.

Sean case is gen spec, so a Standard Rolex Sub springbar would work (2mm x 20mm). I have bought these, or you can check with BK or TC to see if they have any. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-SPRING-BAR-FOR-ROLEX-NEW-SUBMARINER-WATCH-20MM-1-/170687043747?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27bdbd98a3 Or you can always go gen. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Rolex-Spring-bar-Item-number-23-9290-2-pcs-Unopened-Bag-/251457429705

There is no one answer other than using one of the trusted dealers. Where you live can impact delivery times, and the watch you want can eliminate some dealers. Not to mention, everyone has their favorite dealer, so it's a little like asking which car you should buy. Searching the forum would tell you that. And while you are looking around, take the spam link out of your signature. It's bad form. As for the claims of sites not working, well, guess what? Domain names get seized occasionally, More so lately, as it seems the US government is stepping up enforcement. Sometimes you have to search the forum to find the new address. You'll also find by searching which watches have been discontinued, are hard to find, and/or what dealer might have them in stock. Personally I don't see a lot of trashing of dealers that aren't trusted on at least one of the rep message boards. The only time you see that is when transactions go bad. When people say stick to the trusted dealers it's because of one of the board's policies. If you go someplace else, the board's Admins and moderators will not help you resolve any issues if they come up. If you buy from a trusted dealer they will help if you can't resolve the issue directly. It's a little bit of extra insurance that you can get a good quality watch for your money.

Stiff Little Fingers - Live and Loud just made it back into my rotation. Very solid album top to bottom if you're into 80's punk.

Don't assume that. I have often received watches that the tracking said were still in customs. I've also had items take weeks to clear.

Nanuq ... the site has had some DNS issues for a long time .... at least for me. Most of the time when I first go to the site each day I get a 'server cannot be found' error, and the site will not come up until I have refreshed the page several times. It will eventually come up, but it takes several attempts. Has been that way for a long time. I am on Brighthouse in Florida if that helps any.

I used that one in my gen 16014 cases, but that case was for a 3035 movement. If the dimensions are the same, then I assume it would work too, but the OP said something about moving the guts from a franken to a 3135 case so maybe not? Too bad Stilty's not around. His customer rings were always labelled with the conversion, so you always knew ...

For the 162xx case I believe you have to use a 2824. The dimensions of the movement are different (especially the stem height) from the 2836. I think TC also has a 3135 movement ring available, or you might check with JMB or mymanmatt.

PS ... how did that Movado get in there ...

The trusted dealers all have a policy with how to deal with things that get caught in customs. If you had bothered to read his website, you would have seen this: Q: What happens if my package gets stuck in customs? A: If your package gets stopped in customs and confiscated please contact us, we will either refund or reship (your choice). So the proper course of action is to contact him (which you have done), and have the patience to let him handle it. No need to post to the board or stir anything up here until you get a response (and then only if he's refusing to do anything). No dealer is going to track your package, and it's doubtful the tracking information would have been updated with a partial seizure notice even if they were. He's not going to proactively contact you, nor would any other dealer. If you're expecting a dealer (even a trusted one) to hold your hand during shipping, you have an unreasonable expectation. PT is a great dealer and I'm sure he'll sort it out for you, but you have to be patient. You (and any other noob ordering watches) need to understand this is a part of the rep world. Some countries are better than others as far as customs go, and even (as is the case here in the US) different ports of entry into a country are better or worse. If you can't handle the worry and uncertainty of shipments, then my advice is to stop buying reps. Also, while others may disagree, I never buy more than one rep at a time that's being shipped from overseas. Large orders are more likely to get flagged going through customs if the station is using x-ray or other scanners to process shipments.

Define 'mid-range'. For example, the AP that you picture would be a fairly expensive franken to do (for me anyway). The gen of the watch isn't exactly affordable for most people, so if you don't have a job that supports you owning the gen, it's an easy call out among that group of watches. Gen parts are not cheap for the AP's, especially dials. I did a DateJust for my first project. They are fairly easy to get parts for, and you can do a great one without spending a ton of money. The Omega Planet Ocean's are also a good franken starter project. Gen parts are readily available, and a good PO won't break the bank either.

My current vintage project ... before it went off to PBdad ...

SuperOcean Steelfish would be best for a small wrist. If you want a chrono, then BCE. I have a 6.75" wrist for reference.

So much wrong, I don't know where to start. Here's a good one (WM9).

If it's circular and surrounding the movement, then yes. You're looking at the movement spacer. Some are brass, some are plastic. If it's something else, post a picture.

I love the lawyer's last line ... it was a gift that the 'customer' wanted back ... you know, because he wanted to pay more than $300 for the 'massage' when he didn't get his 'happy ending' ... Question is, who gets to clean it when the owner gets it back from evidence?

Every rep does not need the H4. All depends on the case dimensions, dial thickness and position relative to the movement, and whether or not the dial has raised markers.

Not to thread-crap, but why would you replace a 2824 with a SW200? They are essentially the same movement. You would have been better off (and probably have saved money) just getting the 2824 serviced if you were having issues. You need the H4 cannon pinion for the hands clearance. Most movements are not sold with the H4 unless you ask for it. Depending on whether or not the original movement was an Asian or ETA 2824 you may be able to swap the one from your old movement to the SW200, but based on your response above you will likely need a watchmaker to do it. Otherwise you can buy just the parts from Ofrei or Cousins. If you want to be in do it yourself mode, then look for a movemement for sale that already has the work done here on the board, or buy one of TC's clone movements, which has the H4 installed already.

I have applied makeup to women many times ... was a commercial photographer in my previous life. To myself? Never. And I'm a ugly bastard ...

You also might want to try this: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/120579-review-of-breitling-windrider-chronomat-b01/ The B01 is a good rep, but not a 1:1 rep due to the sunken datewheel issue. I don't believe the A7753 was ever fitted to it (which would have cured the issue). If you are in the UK, I would go with Saed. He can ship from the UK.

What you are hearing is most likely noise from the rotor. Any movement you get in a rep is likely to be dirty and/or dry from the factory. It is common knowledge on the forums, but since you didn't register until after you bought it, you wouldn't necessarily have known that going in. A service will clear up the problem. Any other rep you buy will probably have the same issue, and in the case of this rep, all the dealers are getting the same watch so buying another one won't cure the problem.

The fact that you are asking the question means likely not. Tearing down a watch movement takes some skill and experience. This isn't the movement you would want to try that on for a first effort. If you have to service the movement (or replace it) with someone else doing the labor you are going to spend more than $120. $60 to take a look is reasonable, which should come off the service price once he's determined what's wrong. If you can't get the seller to send you a replacement, then you have two choices. Throw it in a drawer, or pay to get it fixed. And one further piece of advice, don't buy the Daytona unless you are buying one off the sales section that has had one of the two mods done to it which corrects the seconds at 6 problem. You'll be in the same boat as you are now and wondering why it's so expensive to fix.

Yes, the gen movement is based on it, and it's way more reliable than an A7750. Be prepared to open your wallet ... it will be at least $1,000 USD for the movement, plus you'll probably want to get it serviced.