tomhorn

Starting to thank my lucky stars for grabbing one of Whoopy's ....

The 2879 would be wrong for JMB's case. It has the same size/crown height specs as a 2836. You need a 2783, which has the same specs as a 2824, which JMB's cases are designed for. From the man himself ...

eBay seller mahand1 also sells them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-1016-EXPLORER-Jet-Black-Dial-/311012029085?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4869c2f29d His dial size seems to vary, so you need to check then when buying from him to make sure they fit into whatever case you are using. The Whoopy dial is really the best non-gen option at this time. Better printing and much easier to deal with than Minh or NDT, both of whom are hard to contact and get responses from recently. I didn't think Whoopy had sold out of them yet, but I doubt he is going to remake them if he's out. At that point you'd be looking at M2M sale. The most difficult part of the 1016 build is easily picking out the dial. There are plenty of easy/good alternatives for the rest of the parts (and even more options since I went about collecting parts for my build). It was two years start to finish for me, and a lot of the delay had to do with finding a dial that was acceptable to my eye. If I could have found a dial sooner, I wouldn't have gotten ripped off by MD2020 who was holding my money and movement ....

24-603-0 is the proper crown for that model. IIRC they switched to a 5.3mm tube at some point with the DJs. Sounds like that's what you have, so you'll need to find the proper crown to fit. You probably have the 24-600 crown which is why it's not working. Here's more info if you need it: http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/71617-gen-crown-not-fitting-in-gen-tube/

Sead ships from the UK. I would contact him and see what he has in stock there.

Purists will probably hate it, but the green "DEAPSEA" really makes the dial, IMO.

Whoopy if you are not going gen ... here's mine, vintage lumed by PBdad.

You would have to use a dial spacer, and increase the cannon pinion heights on the movement so that the hands would clear the dial. Quite frankly, that would cost more than just using the correct movement to begin with and by using the 2836 you'd have a better setup because the dial feet would attach to the movement.

Unfortunately, even if he's still around, his pics won't help you. He was trying to put a modified GMT movement into a vintage Rolex case. Your watch either came with a DG2813 (if it was around $150), or an A2836 or a Clone 3135 (if it was $300+). Assuming you bought the better one, as Ubi stated, the stem heights are different. You would likely need to go with a 2836 instead of a 2824 for it to fit correctly.

Sure, if you have the time and the skill. A few of our members have amazing skills and can do many things on their own. JMB for example did a custom bezel for my 1016 Explorer, Whoopy did a big Rolex dial project, Athaya has produced some great vintage parts, Stilty did movement rings. TC decided to build the best Sub. The list goes on. Some people are able to build their own parts, and some figured out how to navigate through vendors to get the job done. If you are set on building your own case, I'd find highoeyazmuhudee's thread about all he went through to produce his 5514 case.

Agreed. The VISA Black Card is OK, but it isn't much more than a cheap attempt to try to rip-off of the AMEX Centurian Card. Certainly not any better than the AMEX Platinum card in terms of exclusivity, and anyone (with decent credit scores) can get one. The Centurian Card on the other hand is a statement. It's given out by invitation only (you can't apply for one) and requires a very high minimum spend each month on an existing AMEX to even be considered for an invitation. If you have one of them, you're certainly wealthy (or have a huge corporate expense account). Ironically, other than the additional cache for having it, the benefits aren't all that much better than the Platinum Card. Well, other than the distinctive sound titanium makes when it hits the bar ...

Sure, you can hop a flight to China and go to work finding a supplier, just like TC did. You can get custom cases (or entire watches) built. But you're not going to be able to order just one. You'll have to order hundreds at a minimum to get any kind of a custom order done. Or if all you are looking to do is assemble things yourself, you can just buy parts from TC and go to work.

Very nice! I'm sure you'll drive it like you stole it with the other 100 HP ...

I have been looking at these two that I found from Watch Recon. Both have B&P. http://forums.timezone.com/index.php?t=tree&goto=6834508 http://www.network54.com/Forum/353390/thread/1404760104/last-1405124047/

This might be the thread. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/136033-modding-the-cartel-vintage-daytonas-for-proper-sub-dial-spacing/ The ST-19 is not a swap for a v72. The size of the movement prevents it, even if you want to do the mod to correct the subdial spacing. The St-19 is 31.3mm and the v72 is 29.5mm in diameter.

It should fit, but since you are using a dial with stick markers, you will need the H4 canon pinion setup, which it doesn't look like it has. If using a clone movement is OK with you, I would buy one of TC's movements that already has the H4 conversion done and call it a day.

I'm not sure why you are doing on the deny side of things as it appears you have two IP addresses on the same line. I'm not terribly familiar with htaccess, but I thought you had to put one IP (or range) per line. order allow,deny deny from xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx #specify a specific address deny from xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx/xx #specify a subnet range deny from xxx.xxx.* #specify an IP address wildcard allow from all

Assuming the 16613 would be in your regular rotation, if the bracelet and bezel fit the TC case well enough, I'd go franken. It's hard to find a quality TT rep bracelet these days, so it belongs on something better than just a "beater". You could either sell off the non-used TC parts, or find another movement and have a decent 16610 be your "beater".

Yes, the WM9 would be the best. The other alternative would be to buy the TC v6 Sub and his 16613 parts, and then find a bezel, crown and bracelet. I'm not sure of the best options for the latter parts needed, but there are a few 16613 build threads out there that probably have good advice. And there are a bunch of gen parts being sold by dropbear2007 over on RepGeek if you want to go crazy. http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=234875

paneristi.com

Must admit I am not nearly as up-to-speed on Panerai, but tried on the 024 at my local AD yesterday and really liked it. Just the right size for me. From what I have read up on about the reps of this model, it seems like DSN is the only source of something decent, and even that one is not all that accurate. Has me thinking about maybe going gen. Appears $7,700 is the AD price, Jomashop is at $6,595, but am wondering what the used market looks like and if it's worthwhile to start searching for one. Any help from the PAM experts is appreciated.

In an ideal world (without going crazy), I would try to find one of the old MBW 'Polex' cases, or one of HH's. These would be found in M2M sales (post a WTB). Other (more expensive) options are Phong, Yuki and Minh. Otherwise I think you are stuck with the cartel 1680/5513. This one will take a bit of reshaping to get right. ETA 2846 or 2879 are both options for ETA movements, depending on the case you end up with. If you want to go gilt, I'd see if Whoopy has any of his gilt 5513 dials left.

Congrats on the new Audi ... Sorry about the rest of it though. Personally, I would shame the dealer publicly. That's just worng on so many levels.

Yes ....

So you were the one that outbid me ....