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Everything posted by tomhorn
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Nothing too complicated…
tomhorn replied to ubiquitous's topic in The Two R's Watch Reviews - Lani & Ubi
I switched from buying reps directly to doing vintage Rolex franken builds myself ... although not remotely close to your level. Anyone who asks "Who has the best ... ?" can find the answer somewhere in your collection of builds. As great as all of them have been, if I could have just one, this would be it. -
Comex day ...
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I would do a Google search for 1016 dials and see if anything looks good to you. Then send the picture off to whomever you decide to let do the work and tell them to match it. That's what I did with PBdad on mine, and with Cwazy on my 5514 dial. Both guys nailed it.
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Have you checked with any of the TD's? They all have access to the same watches. If they are still available, any of them should be able to help you out. If they aren't, then you will have to try finding a M2M sale..
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Best place to get a Nomos Tangomat replica?
tomhorn replied to acuriousman's topic in Other Brands Area
If they are still available, any of the TD's should be able to get one. -
For reference, I used TC's v1 hands for mine (pictured above).
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Yes.
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Assuming you have a gen 160xx case, then the 555b will fit. WSO sells those too if you can't find a gen pair.
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You cut off the feet and either use dial dots, or attempt to reposition them. There are a couple of tutorials posted. This assumes you have a case that will accept a gen dial, of course.
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You'll need a new set of hands, and will have to cut the dial feet. Also, if the watch has a datewheel, you'll have to replace that too. Depending on the rep, you may also have to replace the movement ring.
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Yes he is. He also lumed my Whoopy dial. Did a great job.
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455b or 555b are the correct endlinks. The "b" is for the lugholes case. Perhaps KBH can chime in, but I would expect the WSO 455b two-tone endlinks would work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/JUBILEE-WATCH-BAND-END-PIECE-ROLEX-20MM-18K-SS-REAL-GOLD-PART-/310304838836?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item483f9c14b4 You could also go gen.
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In the standard configuration (6-9-12) it's fine, as is the A7753 (3-6-9). Any of the versions that move the running seconds to a different position (other than 9) are going to be problematic. As with any Asian movement, getting them serviced helps a bunch as they normally come from the factory in a less than ideal state (dry and dirty).
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Rep parts are difficult, if not impossible to find. First stop is always the dealer you bought the watch from. If that fails, try the other dealers. After that, you can post an "I want to buy" (in the proper section). You can also check the sales section for people that are selling off an entire watch. Sometimes a member will be selling a broken one they don't want to repair, or one that's completely beat up but the part you are looking for is still OK. Unfortunately, you may have to go gen.
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First rule of message boards ... only start one thread on a topic. Posting the same thing to several sections gets you nowhere.
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The TC (or ETA) 2824 will not take gen hands, nor can it be corrected to turn the hands/datewheel in the same direction as a gen 3135. The Yuki does both.
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Obviously missed .... NO PMs . PLEASE email me for watch mods, service, repair vaclume@gmail.com
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http://www.ebay.com/sch/world_time_inc_online/m.html?item=171236101022&hash=item27de778b9e&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562
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True. He could get the version with the ST-19 and fix the hand though. You can make an offer for Phong's dial through the eBay store. Can get it for a little less. Be careful QC'ing the printing. Really wish DW was around and not flakey. His old batch dials were great.
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The big dog in my collection came out of the watch box today ...
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I recognize that color, and those wheels ... fortunately, I no longer have to deal with the ugly front plate ...
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Based on aligoat's response, I'd agree.
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Does no one actually do research anymore? It's not that hard to find posts about pretty much any Rolex build anyone wants to attempt. First of all, if you are choising between a franken 1675 and a 16710, you should be going with the 1675 as parts are more redily available and the end result will be better. You also get a correct hand stack. If your heart is set on the 16710, then start with this post, which pretty much gives you the blueprint for doing the best project you can. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/144657-making-a-gen-style-16710-case-out-of-a-16570-case-and-tw-bezel-assembly/ And this one. http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/168260-my-new-gmt-master-ii-franken/ Getting the old Explorer II case will be the tricky part. Better yet, post a WTB for a BK Transformer.
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The fix may or may not be all that easy. Normally a dial will have "feet" that go into registration holes in the top plate of the movement. If they are present, it's just a matter of realigning them into the holes and securing them with the little clamps that hold them in place. If the feet are not present, or have been sheared off, then you have a bit more work to do. You'll need dial dots to attach the dial to the movement. This is a bit more tricky, because you have to make sure everything lines up, and that everything is at the proper heights to prevent binding. Just a guess, but you may also be looking at having no movement spacer, or the case clamps have come loose as well.
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Don't buy the A7750 version. Buy the A21j version and fix the center seconds hand. The countdown timer works on the A21j version. It's also the better looking of the two. Just so you know, neither of them is all that accurate, especially because the movement will never be totally correct in functionality. Make sure on QC that whatever they are sending you does not have the dial that says "OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE" on it. The early ones had that mistake.