chris5264

Here is the dial before and after some new hands and two applications of matte vanish

I’ve never had problems with this part of this movement in the past; the click spring and click seem to be in correctly however as I wind the movement, it seem to slip over and over again. I know the click doesn't look like it's in the proper postion in the picture, but even when I start with it in the correct position, doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions except to drink coffee as opposed to wine while working on a watch?

This is a great link, reading about things like this help me work on being patient with my own projects However, I totally agree there are several posts on gen panerai sites that suffer from serious contradictions. There are a select few that can post reps while everyone else gets nailed for doing the same thing.

One thing that always confuses me about these 6152 projects is the choice of crown. From the pictures I've seen of gen vintage models, the crown looks more like the one used in a fiddy, on several of these projects the crown of choice seems to be similar to those used in a luminor.

For a moment I got all excited. I thought Davidsen was selling those. Great project.

Thanks, I've been looking for that exact thing. (ed. to add) That is an interesting place, seems to have Davidsen's parts but at a higher price. Those spring bars are nice, but too much. 45 (usd)? for one set?

I've tried this on my fiddy and several luminor styled pams and it always worked. Most of the time, I'm just not paying attention when I put it back together so there is a 50/50 chance how it ends up.

The recessed pins on the pams. I see so many great shots of various pam models and my attention is drawn right to the center and I can't get over it. It isn't even the idea that it gives it away that it's a rep, it just looks terrible and was never a good solution to the dial size problem. It bothers me that these exist and are out there. If I ever become rich I will offer a free service to fix these, then I'll feel better.

not bad,,,,,,,,however I am at that point of rep vs. pseudo rep?

Yes, if you look at benzinger watches (they seem to be the experts at the skeleton 6497), they do have at least one that uses this solution. It would be a good solution, now I just need to find a thin plastic dial which seems very realistic to find. However, I tried something else this morning. I put a "cap" on the hour wheel by cutting off the center of another min hand. I filed it down very thin and made sure it wasn't touching the hour wheel. Still the timing seems affected. I'm starting to think I need to have the movement looked at and perhaps the timing is just off on this.

Interesting. I should have read your post on your omega project more carefully. I looked at your posted pictures but couldn't find this on the movement. I don't mind getting a little creative, but these types of watches have been around for so long, there must be a "typical" solution. I've seen and even have a skeletonized 6497 and this is solved by some other means. It is something with how the hands are set.

I've been working on a skeletonized 6497, everything seems perfect except I cannot get the hour wheel to stay put. Typically, the dial holds this down but what holds it down in a skeletonized movement? I posted this on the watch repair section on timezone and the reply was that the min hand typically holds this down. I cannot get this to work. Either the min hand is not pushed down far enough, and if I turn the movement over the hour wheel falls just enough to move into another position or if I push the min hand far enough down, the timing is affected. There are dozens of examples of the 6497 in skeleton form, there must be a good solution to this. Thanks.

I agree, the clock is ticking. He has your paypal, if you don't recieve payment by this time tomorrow it seems reasonable to move on.

this is a good idea, if I could just find one (or perhaps make one). It did, however bring another solution to mind. Why not simply cut away a pam dial leaving only a few parts to hold the hour wheel down? I tried this. The end result was finding out how difficult it is to simply cut away parts of a dial. I slipped countless times requiring more and more of the dial be cut away. Oh well, on to the plastic dial idea. There are countless skeleton watches out there, there must be a good solution to this.

thanks for the nice comments. However, there is a problem and I can never seem to get this right with skeleton movements. Typically, the dial holds down the hour wheel, I tried to get this to work by pushing the min hand down far enough to hold it down, but it is affecting the timing. I'm not sure what I'll try.

This is actually a much-improved version from my last post. The movement is a 6497, but does not seem eta quality. However, it was only 75 (usd), so still a great find. The case is a Jimmyzfu and is really nice quality. There are some tricky things working with a skeleton. It is very easy to lose parts inside the movement. Also, the only thing holding down the hour wheel is the min hand, so hands have to be on just right. The whole collection, the one on the far left was more of a practice attempt

I think we are at the same place. I started out like "man, these things are great I never need a gen again" I ended up selling all of my gens and buying a pretty impressive collection of reps, most of which I have now sold off. I've been more and more into a balance between a few nice gens, my project watches and a few reps. If a rep feels the same as a gen, be thankful because you haven't become detailed and obsessive enough to notice the small things. I may even end up with another gen pam, something I thought I would NEVER do but I miss the absolute perfection and detail I had with it. Now, I just need to get my wife into this idea.

I can't stop looking at this one. I had a long boring meeting and this totally made it for me. Of course, people think I'm crazy looking at my watch for an hour, but I’m sure they think that anyway.

Very cool project. Any chance you can find an exhibition case back? Either way,,,looks great. It is true that some skeletons are more difficult to tell what time it is, but this just means you get to look at your watch longer.

I just got this today from tourbillon1801,,,,,,extremely cool and will do a review tomorrow but had to share a fast pic,

I just ordered mine from Davidsen. This watch looks extremely cool, I was going to get the original 1938a but they are about twice as much for a used one without an exhibition case back, screw down crown or vintage crystal. I can' t say for sure until I get it, but the 183 (same basic size) works with either a 26 or 24. Personally, I think it looks better on a 26 but I'm pretty sure either will look good.

There is more variability in ADs than there is in reps. the last time I was in at an AD, they guy didn’t know what a 7750 was. They are taught a few "facts" and hope they can pull it off. This guy had never even heard of panerai.

An invicta. One of their 200 dollar watches worth about 25. However, it is keeping decent time. I got a great deal on a total skeletonized 6497 from the WM, paid 75! and will be putting it in a nice luminor style case. Now, that should be pretty cool.

Thanks,,as far as mods go this is actually an easy one. Most people seem to put skeletons with dress watches but I really think this works. I had this thing on all day and was the first time I got a compliment on a watch ever.

I reasembled this thing this morning. In many ways it is a total pos, the movement is crap, the hands are bent and scratched, the movement is held in place by unscrewing two screws on the movement far enough that the case back holds it in place, and the crown guard is only held in place by a single screw. However, I think the skeleton Panerai just looks very cool. I have two good skeleton movements on the way (6497s) and will try to get this same look but with a little quality.