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Everything posted by offshore
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New Hands & Lume Rebuilding Grandfathers Watch
offshore replied to redwatch's topic in General Discussion
Looking good Red! Glad the hand fitted! If you have further probs with the crown, try some of the glue that women use to fix their false nails with. There are big loadings there; I have also had problems with Loctite for this, so I reverted to this nail glue on a recommendation and haven't had probs since. It is a "super glue" style, but it appears to do this job well. O/S -
They should never have been given a licence...or the vote! O/S
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No, unfortunately there are no instructions. I have posted on a couple of the watchmakers forums, asking if anyone knows what it is, and maybe if there are any instructions around, and also shot off an email to Omega. See what that brings, if anything. I'm sure once i get hold of it, I will be able to work out the theory of its operation, however it may be a bit difficult to work out the calibration, and what actual results are being produced, so an instruction manual would be a real bonus. You would not think something like this was built as a one off. O/S
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Just won this on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270637199654&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:AU:1123 Now whilst the seller is calling it a pressure tester, I think it may actually be, a vacuum tester. Has a built in pump (vacuum?)...I think the red liquid shown actually works like a site gauge in the bottom chamber whilst the watch in the top is subjected to a vacuum. I know the seller, he has sold me a lot of stuff, and he is reasonably knowledgable, and certainly has done some homework on this, and couldn't find any info. I have spent a bit of time searching as well, and don't have much more info. Would be interested to know if anyone has seen anything like this! It will either be a bargain bit of kit, or a giant white elephant, however it is certainly worth the money, (IMHO) for the research into what it actually can do. It comes from around the period of the "Moon watch", and I'm wondering if it may be something built for that testing regime? Offshore
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How TF did he get from zero to 225+ feedback in under 24 hours? Sheesh its taken me 8 years to do that! Something seriously wrong there...but then again...it is ebay! O/S
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I'm offering 5:1 its gone within 24 hours! O/S
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Hmmm, far too much of this going on of late. Unfortunately, Pay Pal, can, and will do, whatever they see fit...they are the only non banking organisation, which acts like a bank but is not bound by bankers rules. Hope we can get to the bottom of this one jmarin,.....I do however see that there may need to be some changes to the way deals are being done......far too many deals not being completed of recent times. Offshore
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Find the overall diameter you need,(maybe 1.78m?) and then get some springbars with the correct diameter pins ( 1mm from memory) they are around. O/S
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Why?
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New Hands & Lume Rebuilding Grandfathers Watch
offshore replied to redwatch's topic in General Discussion
Red, Looking good my friend...the other hand is in the mail. Sorry for the cock up! Gives me great satisfaction to help out on projects like this....Way to go mate Offshore -
Anyone receiving a notification of payment from Pay Pal, should take particular note of its contents and sender. I note from another forum (unnamed at this time) that a regular long term member was contacted by a relative newb, to buy a watch. He then received a payment notification, which appears to be a "phishing" email, supposedly from Pay Pal, confirming payment. This is a most troubling escalation of some of the scam attempts which have been seen of late. The matter is being investigated, and we will report further on this one, suffice to say, if you receive a payment notification, look VERY carefully at the sender, and most certainly don't click on any links within it, asking you to confirm ANYTHING!! Pay Pal would never ask this. It is not clear if the buyer is involved, or if he has had his account hacked, however he is a relatively new member with low post count. Therefore it is possible, that "phishers" are registering on our rep fora to gain account info from members. BEWARE. Offshore
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PM sent. O/S
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I have a number of extenders which will vary the diameter. If you can give me the 2 threads needed, I may be able to assist. Offshore
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I had to come back to this one. I finally got around to rebuilding the original case I had here. So today I attempted to press a newly supplied 2 piece crystal. It delaminated on pressing...and I had smeared silicone on the tension ring, to try to relieve some of the oversize that I believe exists. This only further convinces me that the crystal, and/or the tension ring, is too big for the case ( or vice versa) No point in going any further on this one, we now need supply of 1 piece crystals, ( preferably a little smaller) and also some new tension rings. Game set and match for mine. Offshore
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We have some in transit now...about 7 days away. Offshore Edit, Per the post below, the ones we will get are 0.9 diam.
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There is a fair bit of Seiko rep stuff around, and some is pretty good. A few I have seen, needed to take the back off to qualify if they were gen or not. "If it looks to good to be true" O/S
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Good job, you two members.....thanks for that. Great to see members working together for the benefit of the rest of the group. O/S
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The multi prong tool I mentioned earlier- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=49 is the best 'many uses" tool, which will open a Breitling I know of. We also have a dedicated Breitling die for 38mm- http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=317 Offshore
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Being worked on guys. O/S
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This is normal, everything goes through customs in China. it may also take a few days, or not even show as being released! It could turn up on your doorstep and you think it is still awaiting clearance. O/S
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Yes, same bank and linked, so I can easily transfer (immediately via internet) between them. O/S
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In response to a number of recent issues that members have had in attempting to recover funds when deals have turned sour, I felt it may be appropriate to qualify how Pay Pal accounts operate ( as I understand it) When you set up your account with Pay Pal, you are asked to link it to a bank account. At that time you authorise Pay Pal to have access to this bank account. If someone issues a complaint against you, Pay Pal will 1st freeze any funds in the Pay Pal account. If there are no funds in it, they will attempt to remove funds from your bank account to cover the claim. Remember you have authorised them to have access to your bank account. If both these accounts are empty, Pay Pal have no further ability to get funds, unless more are subsequently paid into either account. The best chance anyone has of obtaining reimbursement in the case of a deal gone wrong, is to have funded the initial payment via a credit (or debit) card. When you set up your Pay Pal account, you are also asked for CC details. So each time you make a purchase using Pay Pal, you should ALWAYS fund the purchase from your CC.( you have this option at the time of making payment), you then have recourse to a claim via your CC company (This is one reason you pay the exhorbitant CC rates!) I have set up my own accounts as follows- My primary bank account ( A ) is where my funds are held. I then have a linked account ( B ) which I term my Pay Pal account. It also has a debit card attached to it. This account ( B ) is the one which Pay Pal have access to. Then there is the actual Pay Pal account (at Pay Pal) which I will call ( C ) Now, as soon as I receive a payment into my Pay Pal account ( C ) I transfer it to my bank account ( B )This takes 2-3 days to process. As soon as it shows in my account ( B ) I move all monies into my primary account (A), thus keeping my Pay Pal accounts (B & C ) at zero balances. (or close to) When I need to make a payment, I move money from (A) to ( B )at the exact amount required to pay for the item (or maybe a $ or 2 more) I then choose to fund the payment via my DEBIT CARD. (Not from the bank account) Although it is essentially the same thing, once the funding is through the Credit/Debit card, I have an avenue for recourse if the purchase goes tits up) You must remember to always choose CC as your funding option for payments. This is a strategy I have arrived at over some years of trading both at ebay and at other commercial levels. Thus far (touch wood) I have not had to make a claim against my card, nor have I had a dispute opened against my Pay Pal account, however I do rest easier knowing that Pay Pal cannot access my money (after the 2-3 day transfer completes), and that if a buying deal goes sour I have some recourse via my CC company. This, of course should not preclude anyone from lodging a Pay Pal clam as a matter initial complaint....(Of course this should only be done after all avenues to obtain satisfaction from the seller have been exhausted) However should a satisfactory resolution not be able to be obtained, at least the CC company is there as a fall back option. Hope this is clear for those who have been a little hazy as to how all this works, however ask any questions if anything isn't understood. Of course we strongly disapprove of anyone launching a Pay Pal complaint until all other options and avenues are finished. We have had a number of dealers and members who have had accounts closed or locked, due to someone with an itchy trigger finger. Offshore
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New Hands & Lume Rebuilding Grandfathers Watch
offshore replied to redwatch's topic in General Discussion
S, Put the nylon gasket into the case, having checked it 1st for nicks etc. If it is a tight install it may have stretched, they tend to do so. The crystal (bevelled edge up) should push into the nylon gasket. If it is very tight, try a very thin smear of silicone. You should be able to at least partly press it with your fingers. If you need to use the press get a flat die as close to the crystal dia as poss, use another die to seat the case on so it doesn't protrude through, and press. Alternatively, I have found I can normally press these against the side of a timber table, using my fingers to push the case onto the crystal (against the table side) If it fails, give me a yell by PM and I'll sort an alternative for you. O/S Edit:The plating may have decreased the ID you are working with, making it VERY tight. If your pressing fails, don't despair, an alternate crystal is easy for this job. -
I can only comment on the case which I actually worked on, and believe me it was VERY tight with a 289 crystal.I also know that sfa from RG, had great problems removing a 289, it was so tight. Maybe there is a different thickness nylon retainer being used in later shipped watches?? I'm sure the dealers would be paying attention to these discussions, and advising the factories/assemblers. I did take the existing crystal, and sanded down the bottom (Mineral Glass) section so it was identical to the sapphire ( something around 2886) and it refitted well enough. But an out of the box 28.9 x 3.0mm mineral is a bloody tight squeeze to install (it requires excessive force IMHO) Now a 288 installed passed a pressure test to 3 atm, (in the case I was working on) so its safe to say...in my example anyway, that a 288 would be acceptable. Maybe someone needs to do a sweep around and get some data on the various plastic/nylon retainers being used? as this may be the reason for the variance. Or could it be, that the dealers actually saw this discussion, and spoke with the factory, and had the existing cases machined a little larger, to accept a larger retainer (due to the fact that so many crystals had been produced at that size?) Sorry, I don't have those answers, I only know what I saw and experienced. If you really want to qualify exactly what is needed, you would need data on the case diameter on various watches ( including the V2 as a comparison) the retainer (thickness) and it may be a good idea to know the OD of the new V2 1 piece crystal ( and its retaining ring thickness.) Starts to get a bit messy really, without having direct contact with the factories to know what changes (if any) were made. Personally, I would have thought that the easiest solution for everyone, would be to get a V2, 1 piece sapphire from the dealer who supplied each member their original V1! ( As long as the V2 fits) Surely in the quantities that it would have been produced, it would be nowhere near the cost of the one FGD is proposing..... (and one would expect that the dealers in question would be doing everything within their power to rectify this train smash! Including replacing the faulty V1's with solid 1 piece V2's) Many questions, not many answers....glad I don't own one! Offshore