hackR

there's something wrong with you...definitely something...

i need a single screw....and really hope i can source one here versus the dealer route...pls let me know if someone has one to spare...thanks!... R-

sweeeet!...

one could always upgrade to supporter level and post a WTB...

Be Aware... OXY CLEAN and OXI CLEAN are 2 very different products. Here is the active ingredient breakdown according to their labels... you want to use OXI CLEAN...it's the sodium percarbonate - sometimes with sodium carbonate - that you want... OXI CLEAN: 12-18% Sodium Percarbonate 25-35% Citric Acid OXY CLEAN: 10-30% Potassium Hydroxide 5-10% Sodium Hydroxide 10-30% Sodium Hypochlorite

yup...movement is an asian DG4813 high-beat, if memory serves me right... for what it's worth - this was a special factory build of the "lite" SOSF with a really nice feature set - double ar, high beat clone movement, etc...at a special price of $169 plus shipping costs...as you have discovered, all asian fish are not alike...and the gen SOSF did come with an arrow hand - i can't recall which model year(s)...

I have the t4d white dial fish...it was a heckuva deal and a great spec for the money...mine looks and runs great...it's not the swiss fish - but it's one of the best bang-for-the-buck watches...

crappy pix...of something i threw together this weekend just for fun... R-

@Pete -> man, it's tough to tell...the pix i have of mine aren't the best...we'll have to see when she comes back... @unreg --> pix stink, and from my recall, there's no gap...the crystal is a thick one and does extend slightly above the bezel...that could be what you're seeing... anyhow -- it's not a bad dial and similar to other nice 000 i've seen here...either way, they are rare and it's nice to have one close... R-

i found this article in a google search for a way to colorize titanium... a certain engineer-run-amuck (you know the same one that gleefully destroyed a rolex case in the name of metallurgical forensics ) and i have a couple 172 Tantalums that we plan to play with to get the colorization of the case to the correct tantalum color... notice the use of the word 'we'... ...i'm just the sourcer and a googler... here's the link: Anodizing titanium here's a quick cut/paste of the article: This article assumes that you already have an anodizer, and just need some hints on how to use it Use rubber gloves to avoid electrocution. Follow all normal high-voltage handling guidelines. You need an electrolyte solution in a non-conducting container. TSP (trisodium phosphate), ammonium-phosphate, and Borax are among the chemicals I've used. TSP is found in the paint department (for washing walls). Ammonium phosphate is a lawn fertilizer. Borax is found in the laundry aisle (non-chlorine bleach). It's not really critical what chemical or how strong, but avoid chlorides, nitrates and sulphates. For either TSP or Borax, about 5g/l is a good concentration (about 1/10 of saturated). Remember: The water is what does the work; the salt or acid is just an ion source. NOTE: Environmentally sensitive people worry about TSP and the environment. The electrolyte is not consumed. Several years of anodizing would release as much phosphate into the environment as a single load of laundry or a single treatment of ChemLawn. TSP is only bad if it gets into the aquifers: Just don't pour it down the drain! Save it for reuse, or dilute and spray it on the garden. I use a Rubbermaid® storage container because they resist chemicals well, last a long time, have lids, and are available everywhere. For the Cathode (negative electrode): Use a scrap piece of metal immersed in the solution. I use a loosely coiled titanium wire, but anything non-rusting should work. Rule of thumb: The immersed surface area of the cathode should be greater than that of the anode (work piece). In use, hydrogen will bubble off of this piece. For large pieces, make sure you have adequate ventilation to avoid an explosion hazard. Attach the piece to be colored, the work piece, to the anode (positive electrode). It must be free of oils. I often wipe things down with acetone or alcohol to make sure they are clean. Don't allow any non-titanium parts of the anode circuit to touch the solution. I often lower my pieces into the solution on a titanium hook, or with titanium tongs (both homemade). After the piece is immersed, adjust the rectified, regulated, (protected, fused) voltage to get the color you want (between 25-120 vdc). Color is voltage dependant. For bigger pieces, it just takes longer. Or more current. Use fuses, an ammeter, and/or a power resistor (or a light bulb in series) to avoid burning out your anodizer. Color Guide: The exact voltage it takes to get a particular color depends on many variable factors such as free-ion content of the electrolyte, surface finish of the metal, stability of the voltage source, and so on. If you want 2 pieces to exactly match, anodize them at the same time. As a rule of thumb, the spectrum is that shown in the MrTitanium logo. The first tinge of bronze appears at around 18 volts, the near-white blue is around 50 volts, and the bright green is around 110. There is no true red, and the dark blues and violets are sensitive to fingerprints. See my Physics page for more details about how and why the colors work. Never let the anode and cathode pieces touch each other; short-circuit welding is a technique not covered here.

i've been on a weird streak of PAM "luck" of late... i, too, was on a 000 quest...i researched/read that silix used to sell a version that had one of the best dials...so, i pm'd Jee @ Silix...they actually had one left in their own inventory!...Jee sent pix --> I sent dollars...it came this past thursday, but immediately hit the mail friday for a northern bit of relume, etc... a rare find...a new crown and crown guard await it when she returns...oh yeah - it gets better...the darn movement is an eta with engraved plates... here are some raw pix from Jee @ Silix of my watch...i didn't have time to take pix before i shipped it out this past friday...oh well... enjoy - R

hey a beauty for sure!... question - drulee mentions a "proper c1/c3 mix"...i thought all PAM L dials were pure c3?!?!... Lani's lume does look like a c1/c3 blend - straw/creme colored...what color and/or mix is it?...lighting can be deceiving... R-

@Sixx... well done...sexy!... R-

for Pete...

Pete...will do...the 177 is a beauty...chock full of all the goodies...works great without a crystal, too!... nice homage man!...source of the case and such?!... R-

this for me again today... 3 days in a row with this PAM... gotta wear the ti Seawolf as a break this weekend... @Red --> beauty, my friend...a word of advice, tho...ignore Ronin's comment!... R-

try to also compare pics of this model and the known larger SOH...from the size of the wings logo and the surrounding spacing, i would say it's larger than 38mm...so probably close enough to say 46mm and not 38mm... R-

i'd say rep -- only because the endlinks have a large gap between the bracelet and watch head...there's no gap on the gen... R

i'm in...thanks, W!...R

to me, this is a classic PAM...gotta take new pix...it's now on a hktan strap made from a 60 year old tram/train seat...looks marvvvvvelous...

hmmm...the SOSF was my first rep over a year ago...and i went for the white dial "lite" version...after much reading here, i asked about the arrow versus the boxed second versions and even did the best i could to see/read the difference...i couldn't...i can't recall if i got it from Robert (PWC, T4d) or Peter (watchstation)...but at the time, i wasn't aware of the difference in factories...my arrow "lite" works and runs great...and the "lite" AR on the dial works fine with the white dial - as most white dials help with less AR coating...i'm not sure i would get a "lite" version of a darker dial as the reflection would personally drive me crazy... i have no knowledge of whether or not the arrow or boxed second versions come from diff factories...but i don't recall reading about any difference...would love to know - or see - more on this... @BT --> looks great...and i think the eta is worth it...this watch isd thinner than the Skylands and Avengers...and it wear fantastic on my 7.5" wrist... wear it well, my friend...nice to see it back on your wrist!...and dammmmmn - the SELs look great...you tried 6 pairs?!...yikes!...well done!... R-

regarding the OR strap...there's is a 22mm version that is not branded...i picked one up from a member -- i haven't a clue wear he got it...the rubber quality is "soft" and definitely a dust collector -- but it looks great...i also think someone posted a thread with this generic strap somewhere here - not sure where, though... have you emailed watcheden...they are usually good at getting back to you...also search around and you may find another site that carries the same watch and might list different sizes...i search - when i can't wait for an answer...but it does say 46mm near the top...but hey - ya nevvvvvvver know... R-

PM "offshore" and order a caseback "claw" from him...they are inexpensive, but of good quality...with that, you'll be able to get it off... his site is also a great place to look...his claw works for me... here's the claw i use from him: http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=108'>http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=108 here's his site's home page... http://watchbitz.com.au/shop/index.php R-

"Nevermore"...Quoth the Raven... Raven Special Editions...sexy!...especially the Skyracer... Skyracer Airwolf R-

true that, Lan...but my Bird, alas, is plagued by the random feature known as "no date advance via crown"...so North she goes... and don't ya think blue lume would really make this piece unique?!... R-