hackR

hey guys...i'm working a low-beat a7750 tri-compax that needs to have a jewel installed for the 4th wheel (secs@9) and in need of a complete balance wheel assembly with arm...so my choices are trying to find both parts or to look for a carcass... the movement can be either working or not...since i'm working on a tri-compax, i need to ensure that the transfer stuff will mount on it... if you have parts/pieces, i'm looking for a bottom plate and a complete balance wheel assembly w/ arm... please sheet me a reply and/or pm me with anything you might have... thanks...R

hey rocky...thanks for sharing the great pix of a classic diver... i still can't believe how dead Breitling forum members can be here...don't get discouraged by the lack of replies - i still don't get it...keep posting and once again, thanks for taking the time to take the terrific pix...great watch - wear it well... R-

hey B...it's been a pleasure my friend!...one of RWG's finest! now...how about you go nostalgic and bring the cowgirl avatar back for quick run...

Thx, Mark...gotcha...will try and let you know...R

J...congrats and glad to have you as a friend...party on!...R

great...was hoping it might be easy to work the jewels - easier than finding Asian parts... Is there a side I should push the newly from?...dial side to back or vice-versa? as always...thx!

I'm working on one of my older tri-compax 7750 (3-6-9) which i believe to be low-beat, but can't recall...i broke the end of the pivot on the 2nd wheel so i needed a replacement...i have a carcass of an older 7750, so i grabbed the 2nd wheel...only to find out that the shaft/pivot of the 2nd wheel is not a uniform diameter - it starts out smaller and then goes into a slightly larger shoulder at the wheel hub...it's stepped, if that makes sense...well, i then discover that the gen eta 7750 2nd wheel is also stepped...the tri-compax has a 2nd wheel that is a single/non-stepped diameter...see the pix above... what's creating my problem is that the jewel in my tri-compax has a smaller diameter hole than the hole on the carcass 7750 or the eta 7750 jewel - which is larger...i am debating trying to pop out the jewels and swap them, but i don't have the right tools to remove/replace the jewels...not sure if pressing them out will make them break or not, too... i've tried using the carcass plates - but ran into a snag...i only have the tri-compax balance wheel assembly which has male studs to mount into the female holes in the plate...i don't have a spare balance wheel assembly with female holes in the assembly to match up to the male studs on the plate...i have no skills to be able to break down the balance wheel assembly to attempt a swap to accomodate the stud connection difference... Here's a pix of the balance wheel assembly i need - see the holes in the arm? so - my options are: 1) finding a uniform thin shafted 2nd wheel for an a7750; w/o the stepped shaft 2) swapping jewels 3) finding a balance wheel assembly with holes to fit the studs in the plate i cannot change the plates around as they are different...especially with how the balance wheel assembly connects to the plate... any help advice and/or parts is appreciated... the 2nd wheel is: ETA Valjoux movement 7750 part number 224 (second wheel,long lower pivot); also, sometimes refered to as a 4th wheel?! R-

glad to see i'm not completely crazy...thanks for the info, guys!

40+... picked up a paul newman, but didn't take to it...sold it...then picked up a jmb no-date...loved it...built a gilt dial 5513 and then a vintage milsub...my gilt 5513 and my no-date sub are high volume in my rotation...and i'm a breitling, panerai guy...

thanks...in this case, the hands were set clockwise...it's just that when released from hacking, unless it's set a minute ahead, it runs a minute behind...i haven't stared at it to see if the minute hands does nothing for the first minute it runs...just kinda weird...and it's not like the hands are slipping - otherwise, the watch would be running inaccurately...which it's not...weird...

On the watch I'm wearing today (a 6-9-12 a7750 ss Chrono Avenger franken), i have to set the watch exactly one minute ahead of my computer time to sync it...the watch's power reserve has juice - so essentially i'm hacking it (pun intended) at 00 and then setting the time, pushing the crown in when the computer i'm syncing with hits the 00 mark...make sense?...In other words, if i'm trying to sync the watch at 3:17pm, i stop the watch at 00 seconds and set the watch to 3:18...then the watch is aligned with my computer...for some reason, this has to be done...i'm pretty sure i've had other a7750's where i needed to do this, as well...but many of my a7750's do not function this way...what's also odd on this one is: it's not serviced, has this one second "quirk", but it keeps almost COSC time... weird...anyone else have this "problem"?...or know why this is the case?... thanks...R

hmmm...the hands on the Deep Stream rep are wrong compared to gen...the second hand is too wide...on the gen, the hour hand is wider than the minute hand...on the rep, they are the same width...the rep's lume area is also squared off near the cp, while the gen's lume area is angled near the cp...also, the second hand on the rep has the wrong tail end than the gen... so what can be done about it?!...well, I just noticed that the right hands for this rep are actually the hands on the VC Overseas 41mm...AsciiWhite is selling one, and here's his pix...the hands on the VCO 41mm look to be darn close to gen...not sure of the length, but they look close...what do you think?... wonder if the dealers can source these hands for an upgrade?...

I was able to find a o-ring and plan to attempt this...a 0.4mm by 24.5mm size...more later...

@R'man...thanks...however, the clicking and jumping only occurs when i set the time...when the watch is running, it runs great and doesn't lose ANY time (except the normal minute or so over a 24 hour period)...

i have a movement that when setting the time - has a noticeable "click" with an associated hand "jump" forward approx 2 minutes...this click occurs a couple times as i move the time forward an hour...once set after this annoying "click/jump" the watch usually keeps good time without any issues...however, sometimes, after i set the time to a specific time, the time won't advance even tho the movement is running (second hand is moving)...to correct this, i have to roll the time forward 10 minutes or so and then bring it back to the time i'm trrying to set... yes - it probably needs a service like all a7750...but i've never experienced this click/jump...as i'm a learning watchsmith, i thought i'd crack the watch open and see what's happening...not sure if its a simple fix or not... thinking i may have a gear that has a broken tooth or something...but what the hell do i know - which is the reason i'm posting this...any info and/or advice is appreciated... thanks...R

@Floyd...is there a blogger or a tour group that will be chronicling the expedition?...if so, please shoot us the link...hoping so...will be fun to keep track of your progress...all the best, my friend...R

May the mountain feel your spirit...

from all indications, they are not the same...the gen blue dial catches the light and at times appears "torquoiuse"...the gen dial has concentric circles that catch and reflect the light in a starburst pattern...check out the pix in this thead of By-Tor's gen blue and the rep blue dials...you will see the color and feature differences...the rep is a uniform dark blue... i just recently bought the gen blue dial fish - and '08 - and there's no comparison with the rep...the gen is amazingly brilliant...the rep is a dull darker blue...

Carl...simply, go away...

thanks, H...very helpful...in building my 5513 gilt, i had to piece together this information...great to have it in one spot... i went with all clarks...mostly because of the hour hand...with this hour hand, i think you have to then go with the fatter minute hand of clarks over yuki...to me, the yuki "pointy" hour hand is very noticeable...less noticeable is the bottom piece on the minute hand...so that's why i went with all clarks...nice to learn that the second hand nears a milimeter snip - didn't know that...

i use cape cod cloth...works great...

looks to be a pretty fair price to me for what you get...

@MrP...no worries...just having some fun...