I agree and understand how and why it happens sometimes. Whether you or other members choose to go down that path is you / their choice. Not saying its wrong but I think its important to think ahead - many of us don't and then it becomes quite an expensive project.
Yes and this is why people should sit back and think about how much it would cost to get your project done.
I have seen too many members here spend a fortune on a top franken and then realise 1) can't recoup much of the costs back if they sale or 2) the genuine version costs not that much more.
very nice
Can't see the "S" on submariner but my genuine D serial Rolex has flat "S"
how much did you put int this? dont let your project push past $2K....
I got my gen piece with box and papers for under $4K
Its a crapshoot
Here's what I recall when I used to dabble with omegas more
1) The CF case accepts genuine everything except for bezel assembly
2) The version after (famously coined Paul or Abay version - has the HEV at 10 exactly) can take genuine bezel assembly but not crown tube - the hole was too big from memory.
Then after that, there were different variations from different dealers and I lost track
I had a closed factory SMP, which I sold to Kernow so he knows how good they really are but I honestly think there is little purpose to "franken" the SMP. You can get a used one for around $1.2-1.5 depending on condition and i think the newer models as a rep is very good.
thanks guys
Just cartel case - dial fits perfectly.
Shaved the crown guards down and replaced crown and tube with Athaya.
Its running off a 2783 movement
Put this little thing together last year and absolutely love it - has been my daily beater for the last 9 months!
The genuine dial really adds some character to it and has been keeping very good time!
I don't really get why you would want to build a 16800 model without a matte dial? it just looks like a 16610 with the white surrounds....aside from the T<25 on the bottom....
boggles me