alligoat

what is the s&l dial?

TS watch/vintagepower has the same watch at around the same price. Not cheap, but if you were to build it yourself, you'd spend at least that much.

Beautiful restoration! I know we're not supposed to do things like relume, but it just makes the whole watch look better.

If you're looking for a 116610ln, $10K is about what they're running- I saw one on Chrono24 for $9850. Obviously it's a popular watch and demanding a high price. But all Rolex prices have gone up in the last few years. You can pick up used 16610s for around $7000.

rafflesdials.com also has DWOs- even with the open 6/9s

You could send the original watch to them for a sevice, but it would be very expensive and if it needed a part, I don't know what they'd do. Don't send the 6610 assembly to them- too risky- they might figure out that the dial is aftermarket. You'd be better off finding a local watchmaker for a service and I'd recommend keeping it serviced regularly- hoping that that way you will avoid an unnecessary wear and tear to critical and hard to find parts.

Parnis makes good inexpensive homage watches. The watch you've linked to is a Rolex Yachtmaster copy. I like to think of these watches as good beaters, like a Seiko or Invicta watch- great for wearing around and if you tear it up, it's no big deal. To get the watch going, you need to unscrew the winding crown, wind it 30-40 times and pull it out to the second stop and set the date- keep it one day back from todays date and then pull it out to the third stop and wind the watch till the date turns and set it to the correct time. Then you push the crown back in and screw it down so it will be water resistant. Here's a Parnis- also a YM homage in rose gold with the Miyota movement.

I thought Parnis sold unbranded watches. I've bought a few, but I always get the watches with Miyota movements- looks like what you're buying is a Asian 21j movement. Nevertheless, the biggest deal is matching up the date window correctly- looks like it's to the right- not in the Rolex left position. here's a Parnis watch with an unbranded dial https://www.ebay.com/itm/parnis-40MM-blue-dial-automatic-watch-mens-rubber-strap-military-Sapphire/264497526118?hash=item3d9547f566:g:bzMAAOSwEMxdonSm At this cheap price, you might as well buy another whole watch- I don't know where you'd ever find just a dial. Rafflesdials has the open casebacks- don't know if it'll fit your case. Might have to keep googling- maybe you'll find something.

great looking watch- hope that 1030 hangs in there for you- it's getting harder and harder to find parts for those movements.

Why not just get a better case from Ruby, a nice dial, hands and maybe a 2846-2 swiss eta. I think of these vintage power reps as an over priced pig's ear myself. In English that means you can't make it into a silk purse.

The vintage power reps aren't that good- you can tell by looking at the pictures- the dials are overcooked, the lume is receding, the dial print isn't very good and some of the bezel inserts are faded to brown which is very very rare. Like auto says, you'd be better off getting a cartel rep and making a few mods and aging it- it would be much more convincing- especially if your wear it for a few years and beat it up that way- naturally.

Enjoyed the article R, tanks! I don't know what the difference between the 7S26 and 7S36 is- I guess just one more refinement. I wasn't keen on the 42mm at first but it's growing on me. I'm also thinking about the SNK809 at 37mm- looks like it's running around $70- just wish it was a little more WR. I'm still trying to figure out what watch Scott Bakula/Pride was wearing on NCIS- New Orleans- the SNGZ13 was the closest I could come in a Seiko.

I just bought a $105 Seiko- the SNZG13 with the 7S36C movement- 23 jewels. It came with a metal bracelet, but I put it on a modified Nato strap last week- I cut off the bottom part of the Nato strap and shortened it maybe 1/2"- used a quarter as a round form and cut it with a sharp utility knife and then brazed the nylon ends with a hot steak knife so that they won't run or unravel. This is an old steak knife that has been relegated to my workshop- I wouldn't recommend using your wife's fine knives! The movement is about 6-10 seconds fast per day. The lume is excellent- I can see it at 4 am. Haven't had a chance to check out the WR yet, but 100 m sounds impressive.

AFAIK, but he built my last DD a couple of years ago. He used a DJ case since I wanted to use an oyster bracelet- a 118239 of sorts with a swiss 2834-2.

You can use a gen dial with a 2834 movement but you can't use gen day and date wheels- you have to use overlays. You'll also have to use hands that fit the 2834- i.e. "Tudor" hands- 150/90/25. Gen hands could possibly be broached to fit but it's not worth it. I don't know about finding a gen crown, but I would think it would run $200-300 used maybe and then it's got to fit on the rep tube. Rafflesdials.com used to sell a gold plated 18238 case and mymanmatt can put something like this together for you. The 18239 is essentially the same only the case is SS, but no one will be able to tell the difference except for the weight of the case and bracelet- it will be lighter than a white gold case and bracelet.

There's actually two bracelets in the pictures- and neither one looks any good.

You need to check the HE valve- the old cartel watches had a working HE valve- it was an accurate copy of the original valve. Open the case and remove the movement and dial and take a look. You might be able to see the valve w/o removing the movement, but it seems like there's a spacer ring in there also that might obstruct the view of the valve. The cartel watches weren't that bad- with a better dial and bezel insert it would be an ok watch.

If the other side says ORIG POLEX DESIGN you're good to go!

Not only does the crown look too big, the crown guards are too short and stubby. Bob's watch looks fine if you look at the second picture- crown is ok and cgs are correct. First pic is screwed up- don't know why. Also one of Bob's other pics from the side shows the correct cg droop- this is a tell on 1680 cases. The dial on the OPs 1680 looks ok, but I'm not sure about the cgs and crown

Offhand, I'd think not. Bezel insert is aftermarket with a bad pearl, dial looks bad, bracelet is ok but end pieces are incorrect- should be 580s or 585s. Pull the bracelet off and look at the SN- MBWs should be like 5,79x,xxx but a DRSD would have an earlier SN. I would think it's a cartel model.

Cool- the wonderful world of you tube- I watched a watchmaker take apart a DG2813 and put it back together in a $50 Starking. Lots of cool other videos.

Dang Horfan- there's two of these watches floating around!

No, I ordered from TS Watch and it went relatively ok. I'm assuming that Vintage Power is part of TS Watch since the Tudor sub is watermarked TS Watch

That's the problem with the hidden clasp- micro adjustment isn't one of it's features. I ran into it with a gen DD with the oyster band- it even had a half link, but I still have to wear it slightly loose. Older style clasps have better adjustment.

So it looks like they are part of TS Watch- I've ordered from them and they're basically legit. I had to use a credit card and they slightly overcharged me- might have been in the currency exchange rate so I got over it.