alligoat

all the links with screws in them are the thinner links- they're the same width as the clasp since some of them fit inside the clasp. If you have the newer bracelet with the hidden clasp, you might have to order a whole bracelet and scavenge the links from it and hope that they fit your bracelet.

That is a full link- jubilee links are smaller than an oyster link- about 1/2 as big. You might try rafflesdials.com http://rafflesdials.com/two-pcs-steel-screw-adjustable-links-for-mens-20mm-vintage-rolex-watch-jubilee-band-bracelet/ maybe it'll work

Quartz movement also- typical of tag heuers. Interesting fit on the end piece to the case...

Enjoy your watch! These 60-70 dive watches are a cool part of the history.

You might check out these articles on Cousteau and his watches- no mention of the Titus, but certainly Rolex, Omegas and Doxas were used.

I agree that it's probably a 15505. The earlier 1550s would have had a gold capped rivet bracelet. The 78351B bracelet is a later bracelet. Nice watch and it looks all gen to me. As has been mentioned- there are no reps of this watch- all you could do is replace the movement (maybe with a 2836-2).

The SA3132 is basically an eta 2824/2836 converted to look like a Rolex 3132. It doesn't have the best history, but maybe they're getting better. You take your chances. I don't know what the hand sizes are on the SA3132- either the original eta sizes or the Rolex sizes- but that could making swapping out movements just that much trickier- these hands have the new blue lume and could be tough to find. https://www.pf-868.com/0-0-rlex00976-explorer-1-gmf-214270-ss-black-asian-2824-904-steel.html This Explorer has the 2824 and the 904L steel- 904L really doesn't do much for me- you can't tell the difference between it and 316L, but it cost $40 more to get it. https://www.pf-868.com/0-rlex00059-nf-2016-explorer-1-214270-ss-ss-black-asian-clone-2836.html This last one has the 2836-2- even if the movement craps out, it will be the easiest to get serviced. Ssteel is right across the pond from you and could help you out if you need service.

It would help if you gave us a link to the watch you're buying. The BP 214270 is basically a good watch so the only real variable is the movement. My preference for a movement would be the Asian 2824-2 (or the A2836-2). After that, the SA3132 and the SH3132 are maybe available but in my mind those can be more problematic- be prepared to get them serviced. The SA3132 could become a paperweight since no parts are available for it. The SH3135 is a little better since you can generally substitute gen Rolex parts, but that can become expensive also.

Trusty has a bunch of YMs- first pick the dial you want and then look around for the movement. I saw a Rolesium with the Miyota 9015- maybe it was around $350 or so. Also, Rolex made a change to the bracelets 4-5 years ago where before the SELs originally extended past the lugs and now days they're flush- probably when they changed from the 16622 to the 116622 model.

the watches look ok, but I don't know about the SA3135- you know that's just a decorated eta made to look like a Rolex 3135. I'd personally go for the Asian 2824-2 or 2836-2 movement.

Back in the old days a CHS- correct hand-stack- movement was a risky proposition- you just didn't know when it would fail. I don't know if they've gotten any better. https://www.pf-868.com/makers/bp-products/rlex00011-216570-explorer-ii-ss-ss-white-a-2836-mod-to-calbre-3187.html?___SID=U This movement has the ICHS- in-correct hand stack- and is probably a little less risky movement wise- but the hand-stack is not right- but will anyone notice? The 214270 has the SA3132- it would be better with the a2824-2 movement. But the decision is yours. Good luck!

Get us some links to the watches you're looking at and don't hesitate to be more specific- there's a number of models which are Explorer IIs- 1655, 16550, 16570 and even the newer ones- 216570. Same with Explorer Is- 1016, 14270, etc.

Righto R! You sent me to google and I found the STP 2824-2 clone produced by Fossil https://www.ablogtowatch.com/visit-stp-watch-movement-manufacture-fossil-group-answer-eta/ And one guy says it's a Seagull ebauche with 60% Swiss components.

It's interesting how the movement world isn't static. Even Seiko and Miyota have relatively new movements out there- the NH35A and the 9015. And Tudor/Rolex has new movements of course, 3235, etc. More competition for swatch????

I've seen it done- there's typically two holes in the dial where the stick marker goes and the stick marker has two prongs on the back side. A small dab of glue in each hole and then you just press the stick marker into place. It's not that difficult, you just have to be careful with the glue.

Yes, watchmaterial is the best way to go- buy two or three and chose the best one. I have one in my MBW 16610- lume color is the same as the WM9 dial and hands in that watch

Thanks for posting R. Great breakdown of what's fake on the movement.

I don't know if there's anything better than a MQ gilt 5513 dial, but I have read that MQ can be tough to deal with- that came from Jackflash. After MQ there's Ruby who might be a little slow to respond these days and Phong who is ok to deal with but might be a little more expensive.

I've got only two watches- rep/frankens, with genuine Rolex movements- a 1803 like DD with the 1556 movement in SS. This baby has a redone DD dial in white, and it's in a Phong modified 16000 DJ case. All SS so I call it the sportsman's model of the DD. The movement is doing ok, but the watchmaker said I could use a few replacement parts- one was a plate and lord knows where you'd find a part like that these days. It sees medium duty these days- the gym is as wild as it gets- a little sweat. The second is a 5508 with the upgraded 1520 movement. This one's an old NDT watch that I built in 2008. I need to put a chamfer on the lugs, but haven't gotten to it yet. It's got an aftermarket crystal on it, but I have a gen T-16 that I picked up for $75 that I need to install. Don't know if it would be WR after that or not- but I'm not sure it's worth finding out. The movement came out of an Air King- I guess I could put the AK back together, but AKs do nothing for me. But for the money I don't think a franken with an eta 2836-2 movement can be beat- these two DJs have the swiss etas in them. Back in the day I picked up these two cases and dials from a seller over in HK- rolling was his name. Or was it roling... Put these two together for around $500 each. Those were the good old days! Both watches are WR to boot.

You need to scroll down the main forum page- when you get to the section watches, clothing, parts and accessories you scroll down to BK's watch garage and there you have it.

gen 5513 dial is 26mm, rep dials come in sizes 28-29mm and fit in rep cases. Gen spec cases which includes some cartel reps take the 26mm dial. Digital calipers from Harbor Freight for $15 are always a worthwhile purchase

Yes, You need a C-2 gasket for the 16610

Check out ofrei.com- they have a pretty good selection of T-19s. http://www.ofrei.com/page419.html

It just came out, so you can be the first on the block to get one. http://www.trustytime.cc/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_8&products_id=20156

Yes, you have to take the caseback off, remove the stem and crown and screw down the stem into the crown. You'll need a pair of pliers to hold the stem while you turn the crown. Hopefully when you do this the stem won't be too short afterwards. If that turns out to be the case, you'll need to order another stem and start all over. You'll probably need to trim the new stem- it will need to be slightly longer than the old stem. You might be able to find something on youtube to show you how to do this.