alligoat

The watch looks nice, but I must mention one thing. Please don't go into Rolex stores showing off your watch- that is one of the caveats on all of the rep forums. The ADs probably aren't going to do anything, but we don't want to call unneeded attention to our hobby. Your first bezel wasn't correct and it was noticed by the AD. I also don't think the insert should be above the bezel- the insert is supposed to snap into the bezel- that's the way it was designed to fit by Rolex. When it sits above the bezel, that means it's been glued in there and everyone who knows anything about Rolexes knows that's wrong.

Nice! Now all you need is a honeycomb dial...

If you drill the JF case it will still be a 16610- just with lugholes.

I've got 3 of the original noobmariner cases (F520117) with dials lying around- if you have a decent 2836-2 with DWO, you could put something together cheap. I could even throw in a 93250. These all have cgs trimmed, gen crowns and AM tubes, etc.

I'm assuming you already own a set of calipers. If not you need to buy a set pronto. Check out Ofrei.com-http://www.ofrei.com/page419.html They have a large selection of T-19s. Hopefully one of these will fit. If you can get a tight fit with the crystal on the case, you can always sand down the crystal retaining ring to make it fit over the crystal.

The 703 crown is ok for a 1680- it's what Rolex would use in a service if they replaced the crown- they'd also replace the tube since a 703 crown won't fit on a 702 tube. The 703 crown and tube came out in the early 80s. You can tell the 703 assembly by the tube- it has a gasket on the outside of the tube at the base of the case. Your 703 looks like a 'tall crown' which is the old style of 703 crown. The newer crowns are shorter. Also, there's the 704 which is all ss and not wrapped like the 703s.

I'll take the liberty of answering a few of your questions. The Yuki dial you linked to is fine. You can also go to yukiwatch.com and look at 5 or 6 5500 dials which will also work. I don't know what the difference is between .com and .net for yukiwatch. The hands won't work unless you brooch them- best to buy a set of eta hands and color them to match the lume of the dial. Looks like there's also a spacer ring in there also- the #2 ring from rafflestime.com should work.

Your stem does look too thick. You need a tap 10 stem which is .9mm. All Rolex crowns are .9mm. Should be easy to find a stem- 23 and 72 stems are the same as I recall. Dial feet on your movement look to be 12 or 13 and maybe 43 minutes which is what I believe a v72 is also. If the stem doesn't line up in the case, that would be another problem, but maybe a spacer would work. You might google and see what else you can find.

www.harborfreight.com- it's a CONUS company

I picked up this watch about a year ago. It's a Ticino and it's a homage to the 6538. It has the 3-6-9 dial which I love, BTW with strong blue lume. It has the old style bezel and bezel insert, big crown and I put it on a no name rivet bracelet. Originally it came on the 116610 sub type bracelet which was ok, but I like the rivet better- more period correct. You can see the old style bezel from the side. Also, it has an updated sapphire crystal which has a slight dome to it- tougher than the plastic crystals of yore. Also, no lugholes- oh well. One of the nice things about this watch is the 9015 Miyota beating inside. It keeps good time but I haven't bothered to time it yet. I can't remember what I paid for this watch- maybe between $280 and $320. But it is WR- good for my fishing, swimming and snorkeling.

16800 with luminova dial and hands- glows at night!

Nice, I'll keep Helenarou in mind if I need a set of hands.

Here's one that I did back 6-7 years ago. It was a pretty easy build and not expensive- as I recall it ran around $500. started with a 1600 DJ case from Sheartime- $132 jmb bezel and a service T22 Dial from LHOOQ- relumed by goins 600 crown- gen, less than $50 Clark hands- good lume swiss eta that I'd picked up for $80 back in the day when they were cheap (2007 or so) Mary's 7836 bracelet It's WR and glows well at night. Two thing I like in a rep build! I realize the 2824 is a fast beat but I just think of it as an upgrade. Never drilled the lugholes- too close for comfort! The minute hand is a tad short, but it's close enough for me. There's probably a movement ring in there also- the #2 ring from raffles possibly or one I had lying around.

I was browsing the Breitling area and saw this post- now I'm afraid I might be hooked on this Superocean. I too wish it was 42mm, but may still have to get one- of course I need another watch like a hole in the head!

The scratches indicate that the dial was mishandled at some point. But certainly vintage watch collectors like those type of age marks and wouldn't touch them. So it really comes down to what your personal preference is. I'd probably give the Rodico a try and if it didn't work, leave well enough alone. Once under a plastic crystal, they might not be that noticeable.

Start with Rodico and see if that helps. It's that putty like substance watchmakers use to clean with. Beyond that, I don't know if a bit of mineral spirits on a toothpick or pegwood would work. Other fluids like ethanol, lacquer thinner, or acetone might be too risky. Try google and see what comes up for cleaning watch dials

Building a GMT eta movement requires another gear/wheel. Just find a GMT you like (with an eta clone movt) and buy that. I have no idea where you'd find the gear/wheel- a lot of times it's a Chinese part added on. Or you could look into a dg3804 which is the CN GMT movt.

Looks good to me. It's early before they added DATE to the GMTs- early 80s. I'm thinking the B stands for Beyeler before Rolex bought them out. Wonder if the scratches would rub out...

Ticktick will never be happy, so obviously reps aren't for him!

Guys, it's a cheap CN case- relatively old, around the turn of the century, maybe 2005 or before. The movement is older also- is it a 2834-1? The outside ring of the 2834 has been removed. See how the bezel with the 8 sided paper clip wire snaps over the lip of the rehaut- old style rep design (which actually dates back to the earlier Rolex design for early subs). The 19 mm lugs is a new twist since subs have always been 20mm to the best of my knowledge. And look at the inside rehaut- WOK! Scrap the case, but the movement can be serviced and is fine to use.

My 1680 from 2006 is L341068 I got this from BigRedJoe69. He put on a smaller rep crown, trimmed the cgs and installed a gen crystal that I furnished. I've installed a gen insert and a gen 93150 with 580 ends and drilled out the lugholes.

Looking good! It's a beauty either way!

I had to look up ISC- couldn't figure out what it stood for- International Sorting Center (USPS). So no, you can't assume it's been thru Customs yet. It's just been sorted in NY. But hopefully Customs will only take a day or two and maybe you'll see your watch in a week or so. And remember, the USPS continues to get worse and worse.

Nice job! Now I know a 2783 will work in there.

The problem with the JK factory is that the pushers are NOT asymmetric- this is the key to a correct 6263 or any watch in that series which originally used a V72 movement. This would include the 6234, 6238, 6239, 6240, 6241, 6262, 6263, and 6265. DW cases had the correct asymmetric pushers and could use the 7750 movement, but DW is gone and no one has come out with the correct case for a 7750 since then. And finding a DW 7750 case is tougher than finding hen's teeth. The only cheap option is the cartel with the Venus 75 movement these days. Look at the 6238 on top in this picture- see how the top pusher lines up with the two o'clock marker and the 4 o'clock pusher is slightly below the 4 o'clock hour marker- this is what we call the asymmetric pushers- key to any good vintage Daytona build. BTW, top is a gen 6238 and bottom is a Phong 6238 with V72 movement and Phong dial.