alligoat

Finding V72 chronos has gotten tough. When you pull up 'Valjoux 72' on eBay all the stuff is overpriced imo. Next would be to run thru Vintage chronograph on eBay. It's long and tedious, but you might find a sleeper w/ asymmetrical pushers or a shot of the movement. Watch shows is another possibility. Expect to spend $1K for the watch/movement and $300 plus for a service. Be careful buying Heuers- the plates may be oversized and won't fit in a Daytona case.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Watch-Case-Kit-for-Valjoux-72-Movement-Fits-6263-6265-Lug-19mm/282646923423?hash=item41cf11c89f:g:vjsAAOSwRwhZtUwQ Here you go! I don't know if this case is any good, but it would be worth a try. You might ask the seller if he can put a Rolex crown on it.

Nice watches! Those OPs are growing on me- could be a nice beater.

On a 1016, the yuki 1016 dials are 28mm. On rafflesdials.com, the 14270 dials are 28.4mm. As for case openings, hopefully they are slightly larger than the dial. But you better figure the 21470 as a completely different beast.

+1, it would be nice if the seller could shoot a picture of the SN for you. Early 14060s came out around 1990 when they retired the 5513 and had the 3000 movement. Later ones had the 3130 movement which was better.

Yours isn't much older. It would be worth opening yours up to see what the movement looks like- maybe it will give you some clues The watch with a date looks like an old manual wind Tissot that I had in the late 60s

Well google wasn't any help! If that's a sapphire crystal, it must have been in a sandstorm. Could it be a 60s watch- Swiss, from a small company that is long gone maybe.

Maybe Misiekped could help you. He's here on the forum- keep scrolling down and look under repair/modification services. He's up on the east coast

Judging by the case shape and the size of the hour markers, I would guess that it dates from the 70s

just ran across this on the bay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/Watch-Band-Strap-Pure-Solid-Stainless-Steel-Silver-Wrist-Bracelet-Link-18-20mm/311218127604?_trkparms=aid%3D333008%26algo%3DRIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140723144412%26meid%3D4bfb8c730dce41a1a26d8b0e3f465253%26pid%3D100275%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D352170167827&_trksid=p2060778.c100275.m3474

I was playing with a 7205 today- it had separate 577 end pieces- or at least that's what I found on my messy watch table, which were separate from the bracelet. If you had a 7205 (or6), maybe you could fab up a straight tube that would fit over the center ends- you'd need cut out a slot for the center link and then when you put the springbar in there, it would hold it all together. Originally I think the straight ends were attached to the bracelet permanently, but if you could fab up something it would be cool

7205 would be 19mm ends 7206 would be 20mm ends This is all I could find in 20mm, he probably has it in 19mm, but didn't look. http://rafflesdials.com/signed-solid-stainless-steel-20mm-vintage-rivet-style-quality-watch-band-bracelet-strap-for-vintage-36mm-rolex-explorer-watch-case/ I don't know where you're going to find straight ends- they date back to the 50s. Gen bracelets are out of sight these days btw.

No, the dial isn't gen. The case is old- one of the early versions because of the SN- M092117- that SN was also used on the 16610 subs back a long time ago. So maybe this is a V1 116610 case. Look at how poorly the bezel insert fits in the bezel- it sticks above the bezel- glued in there, not snapped in like the gens would be. You might do some reading around here and think about buying a better rep rather than trying to fix the crystal and insert.

I certainly can't figure out the OP line. Watches like the 1002 and 1013 were from the 60s thru the 80s- maybe as far as up to around 1990 like the 1016 Explorer and the 5513. Those 1520/1570 movements had a long run. I would assume that the 116000 OP came out in 2000 at the earliest- I bought a 118208 recently which has a P serial. So there's a gap between 1990 and 2000 when it would appear that Rolex didn't make an Oyster Perpetual by itself. I think lugholes went out around 1995 on DJs- the model 16200, etc. early ones had holes and later ones didn't.

I had to do a little brush up on AKs- most of them are 34mm cases 5500 14000, 14010 114200, 114234 The 116900 AK is new and is a 40mm case. Oyster Perpetuals are 36mm early ones are like 1002, and 1013 later ones are 116000 but I can't figure out when they started. So your first watch is more correct than your AK as far as the 36mm case size but who's going to notice? Nice job.

I thought that meters first dials came first and then later feet first came around as an accommodation to the American market. I'm thinking the change occurred in the late 60s.

I went thru ebay looking at green hulks https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1311.R7.TR11.TRC1.A0.H3.Xrolex+116610.TRS0&_nkw=rolex+116610+green&_sacat=0 And I think that rep looks ok.

Interesting! I've never seen an o-ring gasket on the neck of the case. First, you need to separate the parts- crystal, crystal retaining ring and the bezel with the bezel insert. You should be able to press the crystal out- hopefully with your thumbs/fingers. If not, you need to buy a $15 crystal press from a place like Harbor Freight and press it out. Then you should be able to put the crystal back on the case- pressing it over the gasket since the gasket might help with waterproofing. The crystal should be a tight fit over the case neck, but not too tight. If it's loose, that's no good either. Next you need to press the crystal retaining ring on- that should also be a tight fit and this is where the crystal press should help. Finally you press on the bezel- it should sort of snap over the crystal retaining ring since it's a tension fit. Just remembered there's a flat washer like ring that also should be in there- it goes on before you press on the bezel. If you don't have the tension washer, just go to installing the bezel next. You can press on the bezel with the insert in it or install the insert separately- it might be glued to the bezel which is fairly common on reps. If this doesn't work, you might need to start swapping out parts- like a new T-19 crystal which you can get anywhere- they do vary in size slightly. A new aftermarket bezel assembly might also do the trick- Clark's used to carry them but you might have to ask Gary if he has them since they may not be listed on his ebay page. Other people also sell the 5513 bezel assembly- maybe WSO990- wholesaleoutlet990. The watch does look like a V2 cartel- crown guards are ok, but could be straightened up on the insides. A 1665 case is different from the 5513 case in that it has the HE valve and a thicker bezel assembly. The 1680 case and 5513 case are slightly different, but since this is a rep, I wouldn't worry about the engravings since they are really only for decoration- you're just trying to end up with a decent rep 5513 that looks good and functions. You could send the watch back- it's a hassle, but is up to you.

Z539117 if I'm not mistaken

I think rafflestime and rafflesdials are the same person- Ken. But I haven't ordered from rafflesdials yet but probably will in the near future- he's got some good prices on cases and dials.

+1, looks like a Beyeler dial with white gold surrounds- 1984-5.

It never hurts to put a gen crown on there. Don't know if a gen crown will fit the existing tube or if you have to go with a gen or good aftermarket tube also. All you can do is give it a try.

http://www.helenarou.com/eta-2828242836.html I'd figure a couple of weeks for shipping to CONUS

You could fit an eta 2824-2 in there with a #2 movement ring from rafflestime, put a new set of hands on there for eta and a date wheel overlay and have a nice watch. You'll have to cut the dial feet off and attach the dial to the movement with glue or dial dots.

You have a sapphire crystal (or more likely a mineral crystal) so it would be tough to fit a plastic crystal in there and make it work so that you could build a 5513. Since it's a circa 2004 case, it's really not worth much. There are much better cases out there these days. You could put a Chinese movement in there with a sub dial and hands and have a cheap beater- that's about all I could see to do with it.