alligoat

What about a gen Rolex datewheel for the SH3135? Seems like I've read about a lot of people making that swap.

Check out this watch from Puretime- it has a better dial https://puretime05.com/watch-brands/rolex/submariner/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-1-1-arf-best-edition-a2824.html Or there's the Noob V7 https://puretime05.com/watch-brands/rolex/submariner/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v7-1-1-noob-best-edition-a3135.html# or here it is w/ an A2836-2- better than the A3135, IMO https://puretime05.com/watch-brands/rolex/submariner/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v7-1-1-noob-best-edition-a2836.html#

Too bad it has a quartz movement in there.

Sometimes you get lucky with the 2813. I've got a few that are 4-5 years old. And for $138, why worry?

Welcome aboard! You've come to the right place and now there's a lot of reading you need to do. First question is which model Rolex Daytona are you looking for? There's the vintage models like the 6263, then there's the 16520 and finally the 116520 with the seconds at 6. And of course there's variations, TT and gold models are also available. Keep reading, learning and enjoy!

The challenge will be finding a crystal that fits the ID of the DW case. On the DW Daytonas, it's common to have to sand the OD of the bezel- taking it from 30.4mm to 30.5 or slightly larger to fit a standard T-21 crystal. Buying a decent set of calipers is also a good idea. The $15 calipers from Harbor Freight do the trick.

A Rolex Sub ceramic date is a 116610, btw. 114060 is a no date.

Yuki has the same upside down 571s on the 78350 bracelet. Keep looking and good luck.

A while back Chiman did something with a Venus 75 movement and dial. As I recall, if you get a better dial, you'll have to modify the movement- move the 6 o'clock post which is fixed anyway up or down slightly. Someone did put better subdial hands on the Venus 75, but I don't know where they came from- might have been over at RWI that I read that post. Of course, building a 6263 with a V72 isn't cheap or easy either. Don't know about the Yuki cases, maybe they're cheaper than a Phong. The dials are around $186-200 and other parts are available. V72s run at least $1K these days and $200-300 for a service. Maybe you could build a V-72 for $2K or 2500.

Well, I agree with getting the ETA 2836- those A3255s can be problematic and hard to get serviced with parts being non existent. BPs are good also. I was told the BP 36mm DD was the best and the 40mm here looks good also. Definitely get the SS, plated/wrapped gold just doesn't hold up.

Here's a quick shot of my DW with a V72 and a vintage watchmaker dial I just kind of finished this watch. The watchmaker got a couple of spots on the dial and the chrono seconds hand lost it's arrow point so I need a new one of those. The crystal has some scratches and dust on it. The first v72 came down with a bad chrono seconds wheel (part #8000) so I had to swap in another V72. Both are out of Wittnauers. The DW case started out as a 6238/9 with a Phong 6238 dial and the 6239 bezel. Then I bought a Phong 6238 case but I was never happy with the dial so I sold the 6238 dial to Ken down in Australia- he fixed the dial with a little bit of paint. So I had this DW case and bought the Vintage Watchmaker dial from Jensen- it was a very nice dial, but I dropped the watch and a marker fell off the dial and I guess those spots are possibly glue since my watchmaker glued the 2 o'clock marker back on. The white subdial hands came from Phong- nice and thin!

That little $15 crystal press from Harbor Freight is a great tool for pressing on stuff.

DW cases were great for the price- around $200-300 as I recall. Dials varied but some were very good. Here's an Albino 6239 This one has a 7750 movement. DW also had V72 cases and dials and I just built one of those- actually it was a DW case and a Vintage Watchmaker dial- a panda 6239, will get a picture of it later. As for a comparison to a Phong case, I would say Phong is good but it's hard to pass up a DW case at $200-300

Don't oversand it where you can press it on by hand. You want a tight fit- that improves the chances of it being WR. I always use a crystal press for these deals.

That's probably the Swiss watch federation or their lawyers. Andrew's back up at www.trustytime.store Puretime is also back up at www.puretime05.com, I believe

The only way to find a DW is M2M sales. You can find cases on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/Generic-replacement-case-for-Rolex-daytona-ref-6263/202138874922?hash=item2f106a742a:g:kdsAAOSwEZdaI-uL But if you want a vintage Daytona, your best bet is to get one from a TD with the ST-19 Seagull movement in it

C12-C1 Xtal- is that an AR'd crystal?

That's an LV dial with the larger hour markers. Enjoy your new watch!

Yep, found the email from the hacker in my junk mail.

marywatch88@gmail.com They used to run $55 and maybe plus shipping.

To use WU, you need to get the address for the person you're sending the money to. Angus/Puretime can give you that. Then you go down to your local WU office and fill out the form with his name and address and give them the money. They send it over to China- Guangzhou or HK, wherever Angus is, and he picks it up and sends you the watch- pretty simple really.

If the 1007 case is 34mm, I would think an AK dial would work since its case is also 34mm. Dial feet for all of the 1500 series movements are the same, 30 and 57 minutes.

In the old days it used to be that the MBW tubes were slightly smaller than the gen tubes. Like jmb says, this would entail drilling the hole. I had read that a 2.65mm bit would get the right size hole and then you run the 3.0m x .35 tap thru there. I tried to just tap an MBW case one time and broke off the tap in the case- it was too tight a fit. Stilty than showed me how to use alum powder to melt out the tap in a pan w/ hot water and it didn't mess up the case (ss).

So you haven't found a decent watchmaker! You might try around here and on some of the other rep forums. I don't know where you're located, or I could offer some suggestions. Ssteel could probably help you out. BTW, we don't even know what kind of watch you have. And if you're upset with the DG2813s, you need to get over your dial feet hang-up and get an eta- quit limiting yourself- it will only leave you frustrated.

Maybe a watchmaker could regulate it- it shouldn't cost much- takes less than 5 minutes. Plan B is buy another dg2813 and hope to have better luck- swap out the old one with the new. Might have to swap over the DWO if the watch has one. 2813s are hit or miss, but lately I've good luck with a few of them. But as ssteel says, if it's an important watch, get a better movement.