alligoat

Align the cyclops and press the crystal and gasket on the case. Then take a crystal press and press the steel hoop on over the gasket and crystal. Or install the steel hoop and the bezel together with a crystal press over the gasket and crystal. A crystal press can hopefully be found for cheap (barato) in your country https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&p=2&q=crystal+press

From the picture, it's hard to tell what kind of rep you have. We need see all of the parts that you have. If it's a 295-C crystal, it's fairly easy to get another gasket from a watch supply house. But the steel ring is not a Rolex part as far as I know, so then you're trying to put the watch with a rep assembly back together, we need to know what all the parts involved are. A 115200 would have the crystal and gasket and then the bezel would press over the crystal and gasket. Your steel hoop is an extra part as far as I can tell. Can you press the steel hoop on with a crystal press- over the gasket and crystal and then press on the bezel?

You'd have to fit a plastic crystal on a 16200 case to build a 1016. I built a 1016 with a 1601 case and it turned out very nicely- can't remember which crystal I used w/o a cyclops- maybe a T-21 and jmb turned a bezel for me- it's WR to boot!

I would think it would work. The cases are slightly different, but they're both 36mm and Rolex is known for keeping things simple- dial for a 16000 and 16200 DJ are interchangeable even though the movements are different- dial feet are in the same place. Certainly worth a try.

As long as the blue color is ok, you might as well go for it. Don't worry about it being a $25K+ watch if it were real!

If you get a case from jmb, it will take a 2824-2 eta movement. Check with him to make sure that it will take a T-135 crystal which is what a 16030 takes. You could ask jmb if you need to change cannon pinion, etc, but I'm thinking you don't need to change those. heck, you might be able to get jmb or stonep to build the watch for you and save yourself a few headaches!

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/cyclops-glass-mineral-with-date-lens?code=C8511 Check out Cousins UK- this one looks to have the correct side profile for the 295-C

If a DJ comes with a roulette DW, it would be a modern one. A link to the watch you want to purchase would help. You'll have to ask Andrew about the extra bracelet and I don't know why he hasn't replied to your emails. I just got a watch from him a month ago and communication was fine. Maybe you could try another dealer.

That is a page out of "Vintage Rolex Sport Models" by Martin Skeet and Nick Urul. It's copyright 2005 and although it has some mistakes in it, it's a pretty good reference covering the period from the early 50s thru around 1980.

It's a good looking watch! The only thing I'm not crazy about is the flat top T-16. I'd prefer to see a domed crystal on there, but if Domi used a T-16, I guess a T-39 or T19 wouldn't fit. My PT 1665 from 2008 had a non-gen bezel assembly, but with jmb's help I was able to modify it to gen spec- he turned a crystal retention ring and I was able to fit the PT bezel to it. Here's a gen GWSD with a domed crystal Mine ended up with a T-39 from GS I do think the PT 1665 is a good watch to start with, but you do have to change out the dial for a better one and your dial is tops!

It would help if you posted a link. I've never seen a replica Van Clef & Arpel watch even though the brand itself has been around forever- guess it's not that popular.

Yeh, selling the dial might be the best idea. Building a franken 1680 can easily run $2500-3000 with a good case and a 1575 movement. I built a 5508 and a 1803 with rolex movements and they both cost me around $2500 and that's been 5-8 years ago.

If you had an MBW case, you could dremel the inside of the case at the dial seat and make the gen dial fit without shaving it down. Or you could try a cartel case and maybe the 26.5mm gen dial would fit. Thirdly, you could check a Yuki 1680 case and maybe try that- it's cheaper than a Phong. If you don't get a 1575 Rolex movement, next best is an ETA 2846-2 but then you cut the dial feet! Finding a 1575 for around $1,000.00 would be hard these days and getting parts for them is even harder.

Silver DW on a 1575 movement- Rolex's little quirks!

501Bs are correct for the 16610/93150. 16800 and 168000s came with 593 ends on the 93150 580s are for the 1680, 5513, 5512 and 1675- the subs all came with 93150s after 1976.

Gen left, rep right- color is just fine on the rep- slightly different but not anything to worry about.

Actually Joey the 6 is closed on the 26 on the DWs for the 1500 series movements like the silver DW for the 1680 or the DW for the 1675 GMT. One of the little idiosyncrasies of vintage Rolex. But I've never seen a roulette wheel on a 1680. I'm not sure about the 6542 DW, but this looks like a nice one at any rate.

That case looks similar to the old noobmariner where the crystal sits inside and the bezel snaps over the outside ring of the case. Non-genuine construction! You could use a better crown and a better pearl in the bezel insert. Price is ok but you didn't get a steal.

Typically there's something on the balance that allows you to adjust the timing- however, that tab on the bottom of the balance bridge doesn't look very adjustable from the picture. At that point I'd say you need to go to a watchmaker and see if he can do something- if it's an easy fix, it's a $10-20 deal. If not, you may have just learned the pitfalls of the A2836-2 converted to look like a 3135.

That gold colored screw to the right of the balance might adjust the speed.

The 118208 (118238, etc.) series is round between the lugs. The last flat between the lugs was the 18238 series, the 18038 and 1803 were also flat between the lugs.

Flip the rotor around so that we can see the balance wheel- that's where you adjust it.

After taking those pic, I noticed that the rep lugs were a little thicker and the crystal sits a little higher. I also realized that the crown on the gen has the two dots, not the slash/bar. I guess that signifies gold which is pretty obvious on a YG watch, less so on a WG one. But overall I consider the rep a very nice approximation of the gen. Also, just thought about the crown position, appears to be slightly lower on the rep and that could also account for the thicker lugs- the 2834-2 (mine says 2836-2 on it from 2008 or so) may be a little taller than the 3155. I also noticed a few variations between the two gen dials- Swiss Made is further apart on the dial in the rep case, print looks lighter also on that dial.

gen left both pics