alligoat

I also had this problem yesterday pm. Copied from photobucket but they wouldn't post, ended up with the link instead.

I built a 5508 about 8 years ago, NDTrading case and dial, various other parts and a 1520 movement out of an Air King. While the 1530 would have been the correct movement, the 1520 worked fine. Only gen parts were the crystal and the 6mm crown, everything else was rep. As I recall, I spent around $2500 building this rep. It's hard to source gen parts for a 5508- they're scarce and expensive. Now days I'm more inclined to go the less expensive route and avoid the Rolex movement and use a good swiss eta. Aging of the rep parts can make for a nice build and when you're in the $500 range, I find it just as satisfying. This cartel 5513 was a fun little project- shaved the crown guards and filed down the case between the guards and installed a 702 case tube and crown. Drilled out the lugholes and now it's a nice little beater for $300. Movement is the dg2813 and it's doing fine. Of course it helps when you can do most of the work yourself- all of which I learned hanging around here and on the other rep forums.

Looks good to me! Congrats. Maybe a little polishing of the tops of the lugs, but it could just be the pics.

15000 is the Date model which took the 3035 movement- similar to the 16000 case only 2mm smaller in diameter- 34mm vs 36mm. Not sure if a Datejust dial will fit in a Date case.

I got that inexpensive DJ quite a few years ago and it's doing fine

There actually is a 5500 Explorer- 34mm case, 1520 movement. These were Air King watches with the Explorer dial. But the dial wasn't marked SCOC, but rather Precision or something to that effect. Nice job!

An early 16610 would have had slightly pointed 4 insert from what I gather- but it would not be as pointed as the current pointed 4 insert on the last run of 16610s- after 2003 when the T case (no lugholes) came around. Of course a serviced watch will have the new pointed 4 insert. The 93150 went out around 2000 when the 93250 came out, so for 3 years or so the 93250 was on cases with lugholes. This x serial might have the original insert with a tritium pearl- x serial was circa 1990. http://www.ebay.com/itm/ROLEX-MENS-WATCH-16610-SUBMARINER-BLACK-SS-w-Box-and-manuals-/291895415217?hash=item43f65291b1:g:BiYAAOSw8w1X8BCI Here's a flat four insert- not a bad price http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-VINTAGE-ROLEX-SUBMARINER-DATE-FADED-BEZEL-INSERT-TRITIUM-16610-/172360394872?hash=item28217ae878:g:IqgAAOSwARZXm2bv

New tube just depends on which crown you have. 702 and 703 crown tubes are different and incompatible. WSO makes a good if 703 tube if you're not too picky, otherwise you'll have to try to pick something up on VRM, or ebay. Same with the other parts, inserts might run $150, bracelets have gotten expensive- $750-1000!

Nice job! I'm not a big fan of the green lume of radium, but it certainly is period correct. 700 crown is also good- now all you need is a rivet oyster to complete the build!

I've never seen a gold 5513, so I'm thinking it's a fantasy build. There was a gold 1680, so with that case you could do the build. The bezel insert is silver, but Rolex does make a gold one. Never seen a rep gold case for a 1680/5513.

http://www.vintagewatchmaker.com/product-p/wc-05.htm This case looks decent, but if Jensen is like Phong, it's expensive. But if you're going for a full tilt rep, you'll need a 1530 movement and should use a 700 crown, but may have to settle for an Athaya one since gens are tough to find. Not sure about the case being as thin as you want- also, the bezel teeth are too sharp and need to be smoother, better worn. I don't know where you are, but rolojack has been doing case shaping. 7206 bracelets have gotten expensive- too much competition for vintage parts these days. But you're on the right course for a first class build, I can see you spending $3-4K usd, but that is cheaper than a gen which would be $10K plus these days.

The best wolverine is the one that's running away from you! They're some mean critters

Here's a 1680 for sale by Kirill on VRM- he also refers to it as a MK4- $13K.

You're not going to be able to swap in a Yuki dial- it's made for a V72 which differs slightly from the ST-19 used in your watch. My watchmaker glued some stick markers back on a dial of mine with some contact cement- worked fine and it's more forgiving than superglue.

here's what I believe is referred to a MKIV these days- similar to your dial. This dial came from VRF- 2.38 mil SN. I don't think yours is that bad a dial- I do see serifs on the SCOC printing which you don't see on the gen. I also think it's not cost effective to build a $5-6K rep and I've quit putting Rolex movements in my watches- it's getting harder and harder to find parts for these old 1575 movements. I think it's better to just save up $10K and buy a real red sub.

I'm thinking that movement is a a7750 with the auto wind removed and not a DW mystery movement- the subdials are too far out also- here's my albino which also has the a7750 in it

Don't know what the Mido movement is, but the Rolex hands probably won't fit- you'll need a set of eta hands most likely- check out Clark's. You might have to spring for an eta- either a 2836-2 or a 2824-2- if it's a plastic crystal 16000 DJ case, I used a 2836 in my build, but others have made a 2824 work. Looks like all of your case arts are SS, so you might need a silver or white dial to go with the case. Oh, don't see a case tube in your case- you'll need one of those- 24-6000-0 maybe. Will probably need a date wheel overlay also. You didn't get a bad deal, but it wasn't a steal either. Next up is a watchmaker that can help you put all of this together- good luck

Links have been removed so it's hard to tell you anything.

The later 6239s from Rolex also had that bulge, the first series didn't. With the DW mystery movement you probably need a service, or maybe you could get by with dipping the hairspring in some cleaning solution. My watchmaker did that on a V72 of mine and bought me a little time before I had to service it. Mystery movements are probably 8-12 years old by themselves and that means time for a service anyway.

Man that's the dial that I'm dying for (for a V-72 movement). Beautiful! I doubt the 700 tube will fit a 600 crown, but the tube hole should be the same size as for a 24-6000-0 tube and the 24-600-0 crown.

The 'B' will be below the 501.

Correct bracelet for the 14060 would be the 93150 with 501B end pieces. So start with that and then look on the clasp- on the inside blades will be 93150 and above that will be a code which is a date code- correct code for 1999 is X. If the bracelet dates from later, another date code would be present. S code is for 1994, but I believe S also can denote a service bracelet. There are other tells on rep bracelets, so pics would help if you're in doubt.

heck, I would have kept the old bezel on it. Nice looking older 16610.

This watch is an early 16610 with the R serial and open date font used on the first 16610s. Like the seller states, it's an aftermarket dial and insert- best not to take this watch to Rolex for a service.

Here's a pic of my 7 mil matte dial- this watch is pretty unpolished and has the original Beyeler dial. This would be what your watch looked like originally!