alligoat

You can put a 700, 702 or a 703 crown and tube assembly in the cartel subs- just remove the old tube, re-tap the hole and install the new tube. I put a 702 crown and tube in my cartel 5513

29.5 will open a DJ case

I don't think the white 1680 dial came into existence until 1974. Prior to that everything was red. Check out the dial archive at Vintage Rolex Forum- prior to 1974, circa SN 4million, everything was red.

You're pretty much on your own, unless you find someone who's already done that. Best bet is to try some end links and see if something will work- 580s, 455s, or ask HR if they know what will work

Maybe this crown would work http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-Stainless-Tudor-Princess-Oyster-Date-5-3mm-Watch-Crown-24-530-0-Part-Turn-/391478322958?hash=item5b25ed270e:g:~ZMAAOxyFrNRzznZ

I'm liking it- nice gloss and the correct OCC on the dial. Only other thing would be a little aging of dial and hands, case also.

StarTime Supply is probably a good bet. But they're in the USA so shipping might be a little bit. Also, Wholesale Outlet 990 on ebay probably has it and I've gotten stuff from JandK Watches- also on ebay. Rolex might not be too bad if they will just sell you the bezel and insert and not service the watch to boot- in the US, a service runs around $500 and most independents will do it for around $200. Never hurts to ask Rolex.

It would be best for you to post a picture

Dial looks gilt to me, can't tell about the hands, but I'd figure they're gilt also. I'd figure Cubby picked up the watch in the late 50s so it wasn't that old when Dr. No, Goldfinger and Thunderball were made- Thunderball was 1965. They were still using radium in the 50s- tritium didn't come around til 1963 or so.

Probably not- 16800/168000/16610 dials- which are all interchangeable BTW- are 27.3mm give or take

One thing Joey B talked about was taking a Perfect Clones 1655 case and taking off the crown guards- file them off and repolish that side of the case. The 1655 case will take a T-116 and then all you need is the bezel and the bakelite insert- maybe Joey could help you with those. Or you go to Phong for the bezel like DLF said. At that point you're down to a dial, maybe a small GMT hand from rafflestime and also the Mercedes hands. Joey used the DG3804 movement that came with the 1655 on one of his builds. The only other thing is the datewheel overlay- don't know where you'd find a correct one.

Nice work- I especially like the 5513, the polished crystal makes the dial stand out.

Actually this watch was released in 2015 and all of the dealers have it. Or at least most of them...

Ofrei has a Sternkruz crystal- you can see where the cyclops is closer to the center than on the 125 which is for a Tudor eta http://www.ofrei.com/page419.html XS 303.430

That's a good question and the answer is- I don't know. That watch was added Jan. 17, 2008 so it's an old model. I can't even tell if the dial is correct- Oyster Perpetual, but it might have a Date at the end like so many of the early rep GMTs had. I think it would be a good idea to keep looking for a more modern rep GMT where there's a better chance of replacement parts working. The old tried and true formula was to buy the 1655 Explorer rep from some one like Perfect Clones and then modify the case and add the GMT bezel- but case shaping isn't for the feint of heart.

I'm just amazed that some fool bought that watch for $6K. I've been keeping an eye on tonnywatches' dials for a while now. I'm kinda surprised he'd try to sell a franken for that much- wonder what will happen when the buyer figures out he got taken. The only thing old on that watch is the movement- insert is recent service insert, crown could be a 702 and worth $100, maybe $150... I guess I'm disappointed in tonnywatches.

that FHF 905 looks like it would work- similar to the 2846-2 only no day feature. Hand sizes are good. The 2451 would work but finding a .21 seconds hand could be tricky- maybe you could crimp something down.

"My advice like lots of others before me is simply do not mention anything related to, pertaining to or linking you to reps on any genuine forum." +1- well spoken A!

Thanks Bart! I'll keep trying.

I just wish I could get Riyi to sell me a bracelet with the Rolex logo on it!

Beautiful job Bart. That dial is great!

150 pounds is around $217 usd- that doesn't sound too bad to me for a Miyota 8215, and I do like the 8215, but would prefer the 9015 these days for the 28800 bph in a modern sub. http://www.torobravos.xyz/index.php?route=product/product&path=39_115&product_id=648 I don't know if the Asian 2836 is the equivalent of the Miyota 8215, but prices are the same Those other movements are overpriced and not something I'd fool with

That is a beautiful build! I see the SWISS- T<25 on the dial so I'd guess that it's a 60s dial. As a 6537 it should be WR to 150 meters! I've seen the prices of gen 7206s recently and they're obscene!

Like Nanuq said- you start with a budget. Are you going to spend $200-300 or are you going to spend $1000 or are you going all out and spending $2500-3000? A lot of people start with the Silix watch and mod it from there- these are the budget builds http://www.silix-prime.so/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=116_205_214&products_id=2145 If you went with the $127 eta dial from yuki, with a eta 2836-2 and the silix case, you might get it done in the $400 range. The yuki 27mm dial and case- probably the case is in the $700 range, and then maybe an eta movement will get you up to a grand. A yuki case and dial and a Rolex 1030 movement will put you over $2K. There's also Phong cases and dials which are a little more than Yuki's prices- that could put you into the $2500+ range. And remember, putting a Rolex 1030 movement in a watch can be tricky- Rolex hasn't made that movement in over 50 years, so parts are tough to come by- maybe impossible.

There's not a chart that I'm aware of. Yuki's site says this is a 34mm case so you could try crystals for 34mm cases w/o the cyclops. Maybe a 25-12 would work- the old T12 crystal was used on 5500 Rolexes. The 117 crystal fits the 1500 Date which is also a 34 mm case but then the cyclops could be in the wrong position. You could try some other 25-123s from other suppliers- plastic crystals do vary. Also, investing in a set of calipers would be a good idea- $15 at Harbor Freight. If you have moisture in the case, it will keep showing up from the heat of your wrist. Maybe you reseal the crystal, check your case tube and then dry out the works w/ the caseback off using a hair dryer- close her up and see how you do.