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alligoat
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Posts
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Everything posted by alligoat
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It's as good as you can find. 80s cases are thicker than the 60s cases- maybe they've been polished less, but probably Rolex thickened them up in the later years. Keep in mind there isn't much else out there to chose from- maybe a Yuki case but those vary considerably. Only other option is to use a DJ case- 1601, 16000, or a 16200 and add a smooth bezel and crystal which you'd probably have to go to jmb for anyway.
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No, 3K is not insane- you could easily ask more- Dr. B on VRM certainly would!
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That watch looks to me like a 1503 Date model- either 18k or 14k gold- it is not a shell gold model- caseback is gold as it should be on that model. End links are fine- Rolex does end links on gold bracelets differently than on subs, etc. There's a guy on VRM- Kirill- that has had some of these watches for sale lately and I bought one- paid $4,000. 14k Date from the 70s. The only bad thing about these watches is that it's hard to get parts for them since Rolex no longer supports or makes parts for the 1500 series movements. Like Panerai says, send it to misiekped and have it serviced and no more scuba diving.
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Perfect for a 5510 or a 5508.
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That looks like it is the top movement ring that sits on the movement itself. You need the movement spacer ring that keeps the movement centered in the case. My guess is that the ring that comes with the DG2813 will work on the eta- probably can also use the screws and the hold down tabs. Typically the movement spacer ring is brass colored.
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JMB- Justin, can do it, depending on what you want- he can certainly soften a case, just don't know about putting bevels on the lugs- that takes a special machine I believe
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Well it's OHPF, so someone liked the price. It was a good price as far as I'm concerned- put a good dial in there and away you go!
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That dial makes that whole watch- I love it!
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I'm not impressed! HE Valve- why? Lume on the dial looks yucky. Has a thick SD bezel, looks like a 93250 bracelet but it has the 93150 characteristics, Comex stuff on the back. So yes, it's either a fantasy or a not very good rep and for $298 plus $20 shipping, I'll pass. -
high quality rolex datejust (1601) with fluted and jubilee?
alligoat replied to jorrie's topic in The Rolex Area
Matt could build a DJ with a 16200 type case and which ever dial you chose. Price might be in the $500-750 range maybe- you'd really need to ask Matt. This is a 16200 DJ case that Matt got me with a gen white dial from Yuki that I put together. I used a swiss 2836-1 movement that had been recently serviced. I spent over $500 not counting the cost of the movement which I had taken out of another watch. Being a used swiss eta, I'd figure it's worth $100-200. -
high quality rolex datejust (1601) with fluted and jubilee?
alligoat replied to jorrie's topic in The Rolex Area
The case on the 116234 is different than the previous cases- it's fatter! But since Rolex doesn't make the earlier models anymore, it's all you can buy. You really won't find a better rep unless you get one with a swiss eta or possibly the yuki 3135 copy movement (which may need to be serviced at some point). You could have someone like mymanmatt build you a better franken type of watch, but I still think for a first watch I'd still go with something like the TS watch you have pictures above- it's a good looking watch. -
high quality rolex datejust (1601) with fluted and jubilee?
alligoat replied to jorrie's topic in The Rolex Area
Welcome aboard! Now it's time to do a lot of reading and studying up! First off, you have to learn that the 1601 DJ has a pie pan dial. They were produced until around 1977 or 78. The 1601 has not ever been replicated by the Chinese rep makers. You probably could build a franken, but I don't recommend that at this point. You might be able to buy a gen for $1500 give or take, if you're patient. Later DJs were the 16014 and the 16234 for instance. When you buy a rep, it's likely to be either a copy of the 16234 or the more current 116234. The TS watch with the Asian 2836-2 movement wouldn't be a bad first purchase, IMO. Good luck and keep on reading- there's a ton to learn! -
You could buy a sterile sub for what you pay for the case only http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parnis-40mm-steel-Bezel-Submariner-Style-black-dial-Automatic-Mens-Watch/261862064806?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D46c53b395d1f480baa6cb68c89444ef6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121454661443 Then all you'd have to do is swap in the 2836-2 and new hands. You'd have to glue the dial to the top movement ring since the dial feet for the DG2813 wouldn't work and you'd have to take them off the dial.
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It looks nice, but my only comment is that the minute track is too far away from the edge of the case. Don't know what you could do about that, other than to get another dial- maybe NDT or Yuki
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Yep, did that also- just forgot to mention it.
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My budget build says hi! I like your new crown guards and a very nice tutorial. Mine was a budget 5513- trim the cgs inside and out, drill the lugholes and install a 702 crown and tube. Movement is the DG2813 which is holding up well, but you still can't lengthen those stubby guards.
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That would have to be a bezel from a 6238 since the 6239 bezel had the tach numbers. If your bezel is a gen 1016 bezel, it may be that the 1601 case is too small. The 1601 and 1016 cases are not the same and the 1601 case could have been polished, possibly too much. I'd put a dial in there and see how your watch looks. You're not going to get an all gen 1016 until you find a case and I've never seen one out there for sale. The only way to achieve perfection may be to buy a gen complete 1016. That's what LHOOQ finally did and he's the guru of the 1016. I believe he had four reps and then bought the gen.
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Super luminova came into use around 2000. Lugholes went out mid P serial which was around 2003. So a KH dial would be ok IMO. Also, the SEL bracelet came out around 2000 or maybe a year earlier. Just don't let anyone see the M serial!
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Yep, it looks like your bezel is too big. I built my 1016 with a 1601 case and had Justin, jmb, turn a bezel for me and fit it to the T-22 that I got from Clarks. I was happy-very, with the results
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Now that you know how to take off cgs, why don't you just buy a cheap rep and go to work on that? That way you'll have the bezel and should be good to go. You're rep case isn't even engraved, so it's really not much of a case to begin with.
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The Very First Explorer: Rolex 6350 Honeycomb
alligoat replied to junbug5150's topic in The Rolex Area
Beautiful! I love that dial... -
That's not a bad price from Phong. But if you already have the bezel, you'd do better to send the case, crystal and bezel to jmb and have him turn a crystal retention ring for you- then you'll know the parts will all fit.
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Yes, but like Chi said, Yuki is your best and probably only option. You might try Minh Que over in Saigon and see if he has one, but once again, it will be expensive.
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This would be from a 16610 rep from a few years back, as ssteel says, with the click stud assembly. It may or may not take the bezel with the paper clip wire assembly. It does have the wokky rehaut! But you don't have the lugholes in the case. I think you'd do better to get a more suitable case myself.
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"Question, what mods would you suggest? I have gen 703 crown and gen 7030 tube...would these fit ??? Plexi T-21 ???" The 703 crown and tube is all wrong for the 6239- it should be a 600 series crown and tube. You might be able to fit a gen 24-600 crown in your existing tube, but you have to be careful removing the stem from the movement- I boogered up an a7750 in a 6238 rep doing it. Plexi T21 can be made to work, but you will have to enlarge the bezel some- DW bezels are notorious for being slightly undersized.
