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alligoat

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Everything posted by alligoat

  1. JMB- Justin, can do it, depending on what you want- he can certainly soften a case, just don't know about putting bevels on the lugs- that takes a special machine I believe
  2. Well it's OHPF, so someone liked the price. It was a good price as far as I'm concerned- put a good dial in there and away you go!
  3. That dial makes that whole watch- I love it!
  4. I'm not impressed! HE Valve- why? Lume on the dial looks yucky. Has a thick SD bezel, looks like a 93250 bracelet but it has the 93150 characteristics, Comex stuff on the back. So yes, it's either a fantasy or a not very good rep and for $298 plus $20 shipping, I'll pass.
  5. Matt could build a DJ with a 16200 type case and which ever dial you chose. Price might be in the $500-750 range maybe- you'd really need to ask Matt. This is a 16200 DJ case that Matt got me with a gen white dial from Yuki that I put together. I used a swiss 2836-1 movement that had been recently serviced. I spent over $500 not counting the cost of the movement which I had taken out of another watch. Being a used swiss eta, I'd figure it's worth $100-200.
  6. The case on the 116234 is different than the previous cases- it's fatter! But since Rolex doesn't make the earlier models anymore, it's all you can buy. You really won't find a better rep unless you get one with a swiss eta or possibly the yuki 3135 copy movement (which may need to be serviced at some point). You could have someone like mymanmatt build you a better franken type of watch, but I still think for a first watch I'd still go with something like the TS watch you have pictures above- it's a good looking watch.
  7. Welcome aboard! Now it's time to do a lot of reading and studying up! First off, you have to learn that the 1601 DJ has a pie pan dial. They were produced until around 1977 or 78. The 1601 has not ever been replicated by the Chinese rep makers. You probably could build a franken, but I don't recommend that at this point. You might be able to buy a gen for $1500 give or take, if you're patient. Later DJs were the 16014 and the 16234 for instance. When you buy a rep, it's likely to be either a copy of the 16234 or the more current 116234. The TS watch with the Asian 2836-2 movement wouldn't be a bad first purchase, IMO. Good luck and keep on reading- there's a ton to learn!
  8. You could buy a sterile sub for what you pay for the case only http://www.ebay.com/itm/Parnis-40mm-steel-Bezel-Submariner-Style-black-dial-Automatic-Mens-Watch/261862064806?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D46c53b395d1f480baa6cb68c89444ef6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D121454661443 Then all you'd have to do is swap in the 2836-2 and new hands. You'd have to glue the dial to the top movement ring since the dial feet for the DG2813 wouldn't work and you'd have to take them off the dial.
  9. It looks nice, but my only comment is that the minute track is too far away from the edge of the case. Don't know what you could do about that, other than to get another dial- maybe NDT or Yuki
  10. Yep, did that also- just forgot to mention it.
  11. My budget build says hi! I like your new crown guards and a very nice tutorial. Mine was a budget 5513- trim the cgs inside and out, drill the lugholes and install a 702 crown and tube. Movement is the DG2813 which is holding up well, but you still can't lengthen those stubby guards.
  12. That would have to be a bezel from a 6238 since the 6239 bezel had the tach numbers. If your bezel is a gen 1016 bezel, it may be that the 1601 case is too small. The 1601 and 1016 cases are not the same and the 1601 case could have been polished, possibly too much. I'd put a dial in there and see how your watch looks. You're not going to get an all gen 1016 until you find a case and I've never seen one out there for sale. The only way to achieve perfection may be to buy a gen complete 1016. That's what LHOOQ finally did and he's the guru of the 1016. I believe he had four reps and then bought the gen.
  13. Super luminova came into use around 2000. Lugholes went out mid P serial which was around 2003. So a KH dial would be ok IMO. Also, the SEL bracelet came out around 2000 or maybe a year earlier. Just don't let anyone see the M serial!
  14. Yep, it looks like your bezel is too big. I built my 1016 with a 1601 case and had Justin, jmb, turn a bezel for me and fit it to the T-22 that I got from Clarks. I was happy-very, with the results
  15. Now that you know how to take off cgs, why don't you just buy a cheap rep and go to work on that? That way you'll have the bezel and should be good to go. You're rep case isn't even engraved, so it's really not much of a case to begin with.
  16. That's not a bad price from Phong. But if you already have the bezel, you'd do better to send the case, crystal and bezel to jmb and have him turn a crystal retention ring for you- then you'll know the parts will all fit.
  17. Yes, but like Chi said, Yuki is your best and probably only option. You might try Minh Que over in Saigon and see if he has one, but once again, it will be expensive.
  18. This would be from a 16610 rep from a few years back, as ssteel says, with the click stud assembly. It may or may not take the bezel with the paper clip wire assembly. It does have the wokky rehaut! But you don't have the lugholes in the case. I think you'd do better to get a more suitable case myself.
  19. "Question, what mods would you suggest? I have gen 703 crown and gen 7030 tube...would these fit ??? Plexi T-21 ???" The 703 crown and tube is all wrong for the 6239- it should be a 600 series crown and tube. You might be able to fit a gen 24-600 crown in your existing tube, but you have to be careful removing the stem from the movement- I boogered up an a7750 in a 6238 rep doing it. Plexi T21 can be made to work, but you will have to enlarge the bezel some- DW bezels are notorious for being slightly undersized.
  20. You could always upgrade you SSD with a TC dial and hands if TC still has them. Or you could go with the BP which has the better lume as I understand it. The BP case is a little better- less wokky rehaut, but most people don't notice that anyway. Choice is yours- good luck!
  21. Welcome aboard- there's a ton of reading to do for you to get up to speed! This is a nice watch but the movement is somewhat unreliable and servicing the movement is next to impossible. Keep on reading and welcome to your new hobby!
  22. You mean you can't buy another watch- a JLC Navy Seals Diver? http://www.ttw8488.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=31&products_id=14097 http://www.pf-818.com/jl00014-navy-seals-master-compressor-ssru-2824-p-18508.html Looks like Josh and Andrew still have it. I realize it's an expensive deal, but that's all I can see to do.
  23. Tell us which sub you have and also how old it is. Typically, you would have to match the tube to the rep crown before installing it. Sometimes it's just easier to install a good aftermarket 703 tube and a gen or gen like 703 crown so that everything matches. Athaya crowns and tubes are also a possibility- the 702 crown and tube is great for a vintage build/refit. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Afternarket-702-Crown-and-Tube-for-Vintage-Submariner-5513-5512-7928-others-/171641394431?hash=item27f69fd4ff:g:k7QAAOSw8d9Uti0c
  24. The dial is the biggest drawback. With a KH dial from TC and a Watchmaterial pearl you'd be good to go.
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