alligoat

Guess he fell out of favor with the mods. Probably some complaints. He's also having to dodge the feds these days, like Andrew and some of the others, Their websites get shut down so they have to open another one. I did get a carel 5513 from Josh a couple of months ago- no complaints here!

I've got quite a few Invictas and I like them for what they are- an inexpensive beater. Early ones had the 8215 Miyota in them but recently they've gone to the Seiko NH35A. Bought this full gold one recently- it's a gold test- see how long the plating lasts! I put YM inserts on these two- I wish they'd just go with a decent seconds hand- might try getting a plain .17 seconds hand and swap out. But for $80-90 you can't go wrong

It's not that big a deal- it was just something Rolex did back in the late 50s and early 60s when they were building these watches. If you were to have the watch serviced, Rolex would put a silver seconds hand on there- of course now days Rolex probably wouldn't even service a 6538- too old and no parts available. Rolex also used gold hands back in those days, but styles have changed- around the middle 60s they went to white lettering on sub dials, tritium (1963) and silver (white gold) hands.

Yep, best bet these days is the BP SD. I made this SSD into a 16660 a while back- jmb drilled the lugholes and PBdad relumed a Yuki dial, the hands and the pearl

That is a beautiful watch- love the white dial. BTW, who is Praz?

Yuki has two dials- the Rolex 1680 dial with the date window in the correct location for a 1680 sub. The other dial is for an eta and has the date window to the right for the eta movement. When you install a Rolex type date wheel overlay (DWO) on the eta date disc, it shifts the date to the left and works with the Rolex spec dial. Cartel watch should take the 26.5mm dial w/o shaving. MBW cases take a 26.2mm dial since the MBW 1680 case is really a copy of the late model 5513. 5513 dials are 26.0mm to 26.2mm

You should be fine then, as long as the movement fits in the case- it's not the width of the movement but the stem height relative to the case tube- needs to line up correctly.

Not w/o cutting the dial feet.- Different movements, different dial feet locations.

I think the MBW and noob are a step above these aftermarket redials- the dial print on the one above isn't very good- the 'S' in Submariner is lower than the rest of the print!

I've also read that the hand sizes between the swiss and asian movements vary- particularly the subdials- but maybe the center seconds hand also. Have you thought about buying an asian 7750 with the same dial configuration and see if that works? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modified-Clone-7750-7753-automatic-daytona-chronograph-movement-strip-finishing-/221496008334?hash=item339230de8e

You could try Clark's, but I think the minute hand has to be fatter like an LV minute hand. Here's a gold YM- fat minute hand Rafflestime would be another possibility.

Which movement do you have?

You could post those pictures on VRF- Vintage Rolex Forum- and ask what models they are. They aren't Oysters and they're not Perpetuals, so one would think they are early- 40s or earlier probably. You also ought to go in the store and ask- it can't hurt.

These are Clark hands- not too bad

that is nice- love those droopy crown guards and the L342 SN would be the last run of 5513s (if it were real!)

I never could get the $1650 price to come up on the Phong site, but that is a better deal- especially if the case and dial are of good quality. But I'm still happy with my PT 1665 from 6 years ago- MBW dial, 2846-2, 703 crown and tube, jmb crystal retention ring and a nice GS crystal- think I spent around $400. It's WR also. Sorry for the fuzzy pic If I were going to do it again, I'd probably do the PT again if it's still around. Too bad the MBW cases aren't around anymore- they were pretty nice but also needed some mods to make them work.

Thanks for the review. I've had my eye on this watch also, but the asian eta version is $298 from Trusty and I thought that was a lot- but I didn't really want to buy the a21j model. And there's $20 for s&h as I recall. At any rate, this watch is so new, I don't see how anyone could call you out- except on general principals- it's a Rolex so it must be fake! http://www.twgtwg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=352&products_id=13455

It looks like it would be an expensive replica- he doesn't show pricing, but the 1665 case is $1650 and I'm sure a dial is $400 plus or minus. Best movement would be an eta 2846-2. He shows building a 1665 with you supplying the 1570 movement for $2750- so if you supplied a 2846-2 which say you bought for $250, you have a SD for $3000. That's way too much IMO to spend on a rep.

I built a 16660 a few years ago with a SSD V2. I had jmb drill the lugholes and PBdad relumed a matte Yuki dial, hands and the bezel pearl. If I was going to do it these days, I would use the BP Sea Dweller case and have jmb drill the lugholes. If you use a gloss dial with the WG surrounds, bear in minbd that the dial used for the late triple 6s is the same dial used in the 16600. Just like the late 16800 dials were used in the 168000 and the 16610s.

The important thing to remember is the plexi you're looking for is nowhere close to anything that would fit on a gen 6538 or 6536. It might be easiest to just order another Tiger concept watch to get a new crystal- or see if Tiger will send you a spare crystal. A T-17 fit on the 6536, 6538 and the 5510. A T-16 fit the 6536-1 and the 5508. But those would be hard to find- GS and Sternkruz apparently don't make them anymore

I think the dial looks ok. But the $628 price gets my attention. Dial print looks good and the diamonds are probably cubic zirconias which is ok- w/o a loupe most people can't tell the difference.

Those look pretty good! I bought a Land Rover LR2 last fall and they send me a set of three lenses to go on my iPhone- guess I need to try them out!

Wouldn't a Tudor have a bracelet with the Tudor emblem on it- not the Rolex crown? Also, the end links don't appear to fit very well. But the rest of the watch looks ok and with all of those bids, someone out there likes it

http://ndtradingcorp.com/view-255-dial-rolex-explorer-i-ref-6610

With the 3.0mm x .35 tap, the correct hole size that I read about was a 2.65mm hole. So yes it's not a full 3.0mm hole. Same with the 2.5mm tap, the starter hole needs to be smaller. In B&S's case he just needs to figure out which case tube was used and go from there- if it's the smaller, he can go with gen spec, if it's larger, he'll need to stay with the 3.0mm case tube, unless he fills the hole and redrills and retaps, but that hardly seems worth the effort.