alligoat

A silver DW would have been used in the earliest 16800s- around 6 mill SN, with the matte dial.

the asian 2824 is a copy of the swiss eta 2824 and the 4813 is a high beat copy of the Miyota 8215. The 4813 is supposed to be a 28,800 bph, same as the 2824, but the swiss eta has always been more expensive than the Miyota to begin with so the same holds true of the asian copies. The Miyota is a 21600 bph typically, but the chinese have souped up the 4813.

That's really not the problem- the problem is it's a chinese rep and they rarely copy the gen dimensions. Some like MBW do , but the CN group typically doesn't- close is good enough for them.

A T-21 might work- my catalog shows an ID of 29.5mm and an OD of 30.6mm. Might be time to invest in a pairs of calipers!

$9-10K is the GWSD

I guess I need to find that link and order the assembly. The other 16800 bezel I have is giving me fits- damn aftermarket parts!

They're kinda like DRSDs! Expensive to say the least. But on the other hand, few people know what they are. I'm wearing the DW albino 6239 today and no one's ever said boo about it!

What about the Yuki 16800 matte dial, Tee? http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6380817/7597436.htm Maybe you could relume it if you were so inclined.

I saw these yesterday on VRM. The second one has papers and a MK1 dial. Number 1 has a MK2 dial, but better lugs. The hands on #2 are going to be changed out by the seller, the insert looks original and the tophat crystal is a replacement. Number one is $5400 Number 2 is $6500 I don't think the papers are worth $1100!

yeh, they probably shop locally. You might check CousinsUK. If it's gen, take it to Rolex- they won't overcharge you too much!

The dial looks ok, but I can't 100% sure- seeing the back might help The crystal side profile looks to be gen. Can't see the crown- LEC- oh wait, you're right, it's on the edge. As long as you trust the seller, you're probably ok.

Wouldn't you need a new crystal retention ring also J?

For an '85 clasp, it should be plain, with no lines thru it and the first one might be it, but when you click on the link, it shows a fliplock w/ lines. I'll tell you one thing- Rolex wouldn't worry about it. I bet the price is reasonable but it's tough to order from Startime- they're wholesale only and they won't deal with hobbyist. You need to find a watchmaker that has an account and will order for you. That's what I did.

I agree with what mymanmatt says. These rep cases are designed for a 2836-2, so that's what fits best. Why do they use the 2836, I don't know other than maybe because it takes a DWO more readily. Costwise there's really no difference between the two, but the 2836 is certainly more prevalent in the rep world. When you get into the gen world- the low to mid range watches w/ eta movements, then you see more of the 2824-2s since they're only using the date function.

Along Andy's line, you can rule out the MBW and the short cg cartel sub. So that means you have a cartel sub of some other origin and fitting a gen or decent aftermarket crystal is hit or miss. I don't know of any other crystal that fits. You could try the various T-19s that Ofrei use to carry, one of those might fit, but then you'd be w/o a cyclops. Buying a set of calipers from Harbor Freight would be another good idea and start measuring. Then you at least know what you have. At that point you can check ODs and IDs and compare.

Looks like a good deal to me, but I'm not too sure about the Swiss eta- more likely it's an asian eta clone. But Andrew has always given me good service and the price is fair.

A pair of non-Oyster 6240s, maybe they're not that rare...

Well, you might look around some more on timeshops- I thought he had this latest group of ST-19 Daytonas with correct pushers. Josh is another dealer http://www.1-pc8838.com/0rldv00104-6263pn-ssss-white-asian-venus-p-10080.html

Me three on the bezel- it looks funny to me. The insert may be gen, but it's seen better days. I prefer them a little more intact. All in all it's a great watch, enjoy!

Aren't you talking about a 6263? And it would help if you told us who you bought from. But josh would be the place for the 6263 with the ST-19 and assymetrical pushers

I see your point Freddy and if you're paying today's prices you'd certainly want the correct dial. Here's one in black from Robert Maron w/o the Oyster http://robertmaron.com/popup_image.php?type=D&id=16272&title=ROLEX%206240%20VINTAGE%20COSMOGRAPH%20DAYTONA%20&area=C&page=1 If you got the watch in '66 or '67 and paid $400-500 for it, and it didn't have the oyster, well then I'd figure it is what it is. Kinda like this 6238 w/ a 6239 dial- stuff happened back in those days As a collector, the biggest challenge is deciding what you can accept and what you won't accept, especially when making 5 figure purchases!

The engravings caught my eye and the flat area under the crown between the crown guards. But the cgs have the 1680 droop to them. Certainly it's been re-engraved 585 end pieces are strange and non-spec springbars. A put together watch- wonder if the seller got hosed on this one?

'Rolex Daytona, a legend is born' refers to them as experimental. And a dial being swapped out doesn't seem like a big deal to me. These watches didn't exactly fly off the shelves in the late 60's, they weren't all that popular. I sure do like that non-Oyster dial!

The F520117 was discontinued quite a few years back and replaced by the M092117, I believe. So you can only find them these days on the sales forums. @ Red, I glued my WM pearl in after enlarging the hole- if yours is a modified gen insert, the hole may already be too big.

Man E, I can ramble on about the noob! It was pretty hot back in '06 went it came out. This is a pic of my old beater Trimmed the cg's- but yours look good already. I installed a gen crown and tube- the big noob crown was a problem back in the old days. Then I put a WM pearl in the original insert- that way you keep the skinny triangular 4 in 40 on the insert- don't want the older 'boxy' 4 of older Rolex inserts! Date mag is really pretty good IMO- don't forget, Rolex could give a rat's a$$ about date mag- as long as they're gen rolex parts, they don't care and the later 16610's aren't over magged like the 1680. Here's the thing about an insert- the noob insert is slightly smaller than gen spec, so you'll probably have to do some filing to make whatever you get fit. BK also used to file the back side of the insert so it would sit lower in the bezel- more gen like. His formula was a jewelryoutlet550 insert with the WM pearl. My best noob was the 16800 franken that I built w/ a noob case which had the lugholes drilled- it's the one on the right Once again, rather than waste a gen insert, I just put a WM pearl in the noob insert- not period correct, but I'm still working on putting that dial and movement in a Star Time case. I've had good luck w/ my noobs being WR- great for swimming and playing. I use other watches for scuba diving.