preacher62

If that is a question, one cannot use a 16610 case for a 16710. The CGs can’t be fixed. A Sub uses a 7mm crown and a very different tube. The 16710 uses a 5.3 or 6mm from and tube similar to a DateJust crown.

Justin, I still want one of your v2 cases. I’ll take one. I’ll PM you. This is good news.

Another solution... I had the same problem. First, I cleaned the inside of the end link and good as I could, then I took the drill bit that I used to drill the lugs and greased it and then slipped it through the rings. Then, I took JB Weld epoxy and just laid a bead of it across the rings. After it cured you will be able to pull the drill bit out...with pliers. Voila.

That’s my rec. Not a hard job to install. The new tube will have to be JBWelded in. Done

I am wearing a DJ right now that I have more than $1,000 in and it is still a fake watch. Everything you see is Rolex. We can't win. BTW@jmb. Did you ever get back in the 1016 case business? Last we talked the supply had dried up.

What ever happened to the $40 reps that you just put on and wore, saying all the time that they were real.

Thanks to all for the kind words!

Seems I read on one of the fora that there is an error in the V7 case, in that one of the reliefs for the case clamp screws is not correctly placed. I so, is this the problem? IOW...is this a V7 case? I always thought it was V6 but I know that Thomas said that he had been shipping V7 cases before the actual announcement. There is actually a traditional case clamp under there as the screw will not back out far enough to clamp the movement. It will fall out.

I understand the idea of "vintagizing," however, if you look on eBay at 1675s you will find that many, many more, than not, have white dials and if they are patinized it is just slightly. The cases are usually over-polished and the inserts are faded, but the dials look new. That's what closer-to-gen is for me. I "vintagized" watches for years and then built a 1655 with a white dial and I love it. Just my .02. Maybe I've been doing it longer. You will settle in on your own style after awhile...after you've tried some things. Just be happy with what you do.

I appreciated DVNE's observation of the rehaut. It is tooooo wokky. I would not wear that watch when the TC is readily available. It would drive me crazy every time I looked at it.

If there are not holes already, one almost has to have a jig to hold the case and a better than average drill press with zero slop in the shaft. JMB is a machinist by trade and can do it and get it back to you quickly. I have used him several times.

A gen dial is usually much thicker than a rep dial and also the hour markers are high on a DJ. When you buy an ETA movement or clone, it usually comes with h3 wheels. These are the wheels that have the pinions to which the hands are attached. When you are building a franken DJ using a gen dial you might have to change out the canon pinion (the minute hand presses on it) to an h4 canon pinion. Then you need an h4 seconds wheel or a sweep second hand with a long tube. These are just some of the obstacles that you will learn to overcome with trial and error. O'Frei Supply, on eBay, has these parts. MyManMatt also has the parts and will save you some trouble.

Tickleshoes is Craig at crownandskull.

Go to http://www.crownandskull.com. This guy is Yuki's agent un CONUS. He can sell a movement serviced or not. All info is there. Just received a movement from him 2 weeks ago. Great guy.

No! The only thing here that is Noob Explorer is the case. This watch is not CHS. The reliability of the CHS movements, right now, seem iffy. Could be wrong.

Same as a 16710 Caliber 3175...functions same as 3075. Both are 28.8bph, and have the hour hand next to the dial, the GMT hand, minute and second.

@eswilly It has the GMT parts from your watch. It did sport your insert until I found fat font w/serifs. Thanks

It's been some time since I posted a build thread here, but I just finished one in which some might have some interest. I have wanted to build a GMT-Master II 16710 for a long time but just never got to it. It's near impossible unless you have a spare 3186 movement laying around, or a Yuki built up to proper specs. I wasn't really aware of the 16700 until I came across the dial on eBay. I did some research and a good 16700 seemed like just the thing to build as I have come to love the vintage modern watches with sapphire crystals. I was in possession of a Noob 16570 Explorer 2 which I wasn't happy with and never wore so I decided it needed to morph into something else. I found a near perfect, 16700 Swiss-only dial and purchased it on a good offer and it was accepted. Then I was able to purchase a fat font w/serifs, bezel insert, so I was off to the races. I sent the case to JMB to drill the lugs (there are no 16700s without lugholes) to accomodate 2MM springbars and then ordered Yuki's 93153 bracelet. The 16700s really came with a 93150 bracelet and a sub-type clasp, but there are some without that, as well. I used a TC bezel which seems to duplicate the original very nicely. The GMT hand is not adjustable, per the gen. The bezel does not click, per the gen...see below. It is a gen ETA 2836-2 modified to GMT, of course. Someday I may address the incorrect hand stack, but, who's gonna notice. The only time it is obvious is twice a day for the few moments that the hour hand should pass under the GMT hand. Other than that...I don't care. If you're not familiar with the 16700; it is the forerunner of the 16710...made from 1988 to 1999. It differs from the 16710 in three ways, maybe four. The 16700 is visually different in that it says GMT-Master on the dial while the 16710 says GMT-Master II. The other differences are from the movement. The 16700 has no individually adjustable hands. The GMT hand is a 24-hour hand and it just follows the time-keeping. The 16710 has an individually-adjustable hour hand and that is what makes it, virtually, impossible to rep without the movement. Additionally, the 16710 has a bi-directional bezel that clicks both ways, while the 16700 is bi-directional but does not click. After my study, were I in the market for a gen, I would not turn down a good deal on a 16700. Actually, four ways...while the 16700 has quick-set date adjustment, the 16710 is adjusted by turning the individually-adjustable hour hand around two turns until the date changes. Experts, please correct any errors. Well, I have some pics...

The dealer you are looking at is one of the long-time trusted dealer. Can't go wrong dealing with Perfect Clones.

A gen tube does not fit the rep case. Put it in with JB Weld. Leave it overnight before you remount the crown. Welcome to the wonderful world of reps. These a not gen case and rarely do gen parts fit. Sorry, didn't see previous post.

Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for.

All vintage Submariner experts. Just trying to answer a real OCD kind of WIS question. If a 16610 with lug holes has a pointed 4 insert, would it have been a service replacement or might the watch have come from Rolex with the insert. Also, I have seen on eBay Subs with lug holes, pointed 4 and a 93150 bracelet. I would think that a Sub with lug holes would have a flat 4 insert and a 93150 bracelet yet I have found all mixes on eBay. That said, if the pointed 4 insert is proper then the 93250 bracelet would also be proper. Is this right or should anyone with lug holes on his TC Sub be looking for a flat 4 insert and a 93150 bracelet? Is this right thinking or should I take some of the fine pharmaceuticals that are on the market for my OCD? Thanks! MT

A Swiss 2824/36 will have the same problems as the Asian made. The problem is, usually that the DWO (which is the foreign culprit that is introduced into the mix) is dragging on something as it goes around. The DWO needs to be perfectly flat and smooth. Take the dial and dial ring off and afix the dial ring to the dial and then examine the back side to make sure there is nothing (however tiny it might be) protruding in the way. If the dial ring is glued to the dial, you must make sure that there is 0 glue protruding on the inside of the dial ring. There is only room for the DWO if everything is perfect. As someone has said, if there is the slightest kink in the DWO it will go around the circle and as it does it will encounter a spot where there is less room for it and it will drag. It takes almost no pressure to stop a clean date change. This is one of the banes to existence for the Rolex rep builder.

When you're 70 everything takes longer than it used to...but it gets done!!

That is really well done...just as you'd expect from Noob. I think the new subs are gorgeous, but I just haven't wanted to own one. Still like watches with lugholes.