krpster

Nice collection. Very balanced. I really like how the Soxa looks. Very Retro cool.

Truely amazing work! We are not worthy.

Some nice finds Z. Thanks for sharing with us once again. I for one have missed your movement threads. Nice to see you back in action.

Alignment of the date wheel does not necessarily require replacement. Often times the date jumper can be tweaked to correct the position.

Another +1 for Blue Loctite. Just finished some refurb work on my buddies BCE which was missing 3 bezel screws, a rider tab and 2 bracelet screws. I managed to get replacements for everything and used loctite everywhere.

Incredible work! Thank you very much for putting that together. Definitely would go way of the Noob on this one. If this kind of comparison existed for all reps the makers would really have to sharpen their pencils. Not suggesting you do that Angus

I would bet it is that little nub peeking out from under the bridge just to the right of the stem. Looks a little like a setting lever

Happy B-Day Pete!

Not bad at all. Thanks for sharing your experience.

Holy bejebus! Not the kind of job where you want to have a bad day. Glad to see some tie off if only at least once in a while.

Did you ask the seller about the number mismatch? Perhaps there is an explanation. 12 o'clock marker looks a little crooked but this kind of thing seems typical of Omega from my own experience. Otherwise it looks like the real deal to me.

Near as I can figure the "Swiss Made" was introduced recently, either this year or last I am not certain, and has to do with date of manufacture. It is starting to appear on many other models as well where historically there was no such marking. Initially I thought it might be a regional thing but after some research I found this not to be the case as some examples with the Swiss Made were purchased in areas where previously the model did not have the indication.

Have a look here http://www.enkaypoli...nstructions.pdf. As for the compound green is only in the middle when it comes to rouge and blue are finer which theoretically should give you a better result. Also, as mentioned the type of buff used will affect the results. If you search by polishing here you should see a post or two that have more details.

So I have been working on some watches for a friend of mine and I am meeting him in a few days to return his pieces. However, one of them I was never completely happy with how the hands looked so I decided to reset them. After finishing this I was in a bit of a rush to get things done and wouldn’t you know it one of the case clamps went flying out of my tweezers and into the Bermuda Triangle surrounding my desk. The area of course is carpeted so it makes finding things a real treat. I know these are not expensive and can be gotten easily but I did not have any on hand and I have no time to wait for delivery of new stock. So down on my hands and knees I went to begin the fruitless search. After about 30 min using the traditional search methods and no clamp in hand I was almost ready to give up. Then I had one last idea and it worked out pretty well so I thought I would share. First off you need three very simple things as shown below, two of which any self respecting man has; a Shop Vac and an elastic band. The third item is a bit tricky for you single folk and that is a nylon sock. Now the first step is to open up the Shop Vac and install the “Filter Bag”. At this point if you are anything like me you will discover your Shop Vac has a bunch of crap in it. Now is probably a good time to clean it out. Once it is ready you want to locate the intake spigot for the hose. Hopefully it looks something like this. This is where we will attach the filter bag. What is this filter bag I am referring to? I’m glad you asked. We are now going to make it. In one hand grasp the nylon sock and fish the open end through the elastic band. Should look like this. Next we fold over the open end around the elastic band like this. This next step is the trickiest part. We need to slide this filter over the intake spigot. Don’t be fooled, it is harder than it looks. After a few previous attempts at trying to get it to stay on I developed the fold-over technique Once installed it should look like this. Now it is time to button up the Shop Vac and have at the area where you believe the part to be. Don’t be conservative with this part. Get down there and really dig in. Cover as wide an area as you can. It is best to do multiple swipes in all directions (forward, backward, side to side and diagonal). The idea here is to kick up any trapped items in the pile of the carpet so the vacuum can get it. Once you feel you are done, do a bit more. It doesn’t hurt right. Now that you are done it is time to check your loot. Open up the Shop Vac and inspect your filter. Hopefully it stayed on through the vigorous vacuuming and looks something like this. Remove the filter from the Shop Vac and find a clean flat surface to work on. Now slowly and carefully empty the contents. I found it easiest to start rolling it up like I was going to put it on (not that I ever wear nylons of course) and then turning it inside out at the end. The beauty of this system is that the metal parts are heavy and sink to the bottom of the filter bag with the sediment while all the fluffy stuff stays on top. Now just sift, sift, sift and low and behold…Parts! More than I was expecting too. Not only did I get the clamp I was looking for but I also found a spring bar from a few weeks ago, a case screw from last year and a clamp from almost 2 years ago. Very effective I would say. However, if your first attempt does not yield any results have at it again, widen your area and keep going. Repeat steps above as needed. Once you have found your errant parts you are going to want to clean the nylon sock and return it very covertly to its rightful place. This can be done by giving it a good shake or even a vacuum, since you have it out, and then return it to your significant others sock drawer. Probably best if you don’t tell her what you were doing as she will give you the look (which she may anyway). You probably don’t want to use this procedure for delicate parts like gears, wheels, and the like but for all the little fiddly bits that like to spontaneously eject from your tweezers it works just great. I hope this helps a few of you and that, at the very least, you enjoyed reading my story

Great work! I love following along when a member is breaking new ground. Very exciting! Give us some close ups of the good one

Nice pair

Thanks for chiming in jeff g. Unfortunately you are preaching to the choir. As far as V1 vs V2 I think I am all set Just need some V3 details.

Some nice pieces in there! Great pics. Thanks.

Not sure about Tag parts but I am pretty sure the Omega parts are available at both Ofrei and Cousinsuk. Also there is a plethora of forums out there that have parts sections such as watchuseek, timezone, etc. Of course there is always ebay too.

Really no one out there that can help out?

Nicely done J. You truly are a man of action.

You should not have to depress the stem release to reinsert. Although in some cases this does make it easier for those stuborn stems. The hardest part IMHO is getting the new stem just the right length. Takes a bit of trial and error. So long as you are patient it is not a hard job. Just make sure to start longer than you need and work your way shorter. Trialing in between adjustments. @Ephry73. It has no stem per to OP. He is stuck with it where it is winding position or otherwise. Either way should be no problem.

Good logic behind your purchase. Really can't beat $29 for a practice piece that may actually turn out OK when you are done. Have fun!

Actually. If you have any blue loctite handy I would recommend putting some on all of the rider tab screws as well as the bracelet screws. They have a knack for loosening and finding their way out over time and getting replacement screws and or worse rider tabs is a major PITA.

Not bad. Nice work on the patina look.