ubiquitous

If you have a rep friendly watch repair shop close by, maybe see if they can at least open the case to inspect the movement. Or... If you have a case opener, you can do this yourself. If you can visually identify a problem with a loose piece, it may be easy enough to fix (i.e. maybe the rotor screw came loose); if it's not something that can be resolved with a simple repair, you can query the forum for opinions/suggestion on what to do next...

The gen is black rubber coated steel; the rep is PVD'd. I wonder which version will incorporate this feature correctly?

I'm out... Great watch, but I should really save my cash.

Zigmeister?

That's a great SM300, Jim! But you know I dig the 14755 even more Pugs- I agree. The AR is definitely a must. Soon... I think?

Personally, I love it. Very striking and bold design... And nicely framed within the contrasting bezel. This would be a nice companion to a standard Speedmaster.

Looks great! Nice and bold...

If it's a tolerance issue with the transfer gears, it should be fairly easy to confirm, I'd think? Just flip the watch dial side down and see if the hand moves to another position? However, if the gear itself has slipped out of place, resetting via the pusher will only reset the hand to where ever the gear had settled and re-meshed last, I'd think. This is a strange one, indeed, Freddy.

I think the main thing to keep in mind is the total cost of the project. It's very easy to escalate into gen territory if you're not careful. I have $1100-ish into the watch as it stands; not too terribly bad, but I really don't want to put much more into it. However, I do feel that the gen bezel is a necessity to the watch, and to me, there was no point in moving forward if the bezel couldn't be done as the stock rep bezel is just junk. With that in mind, I would absolutely do the gen dial and hands along with the bezel as having the matching set makes for a complete package. Regarding the dial, there are small but significant character details in the gen dial that the rep dial simply doesn't match. Texture, color, marker shape, etc. etc. Makes a huge difference once you see the two compared in hand and uncased. Regarding AR; my personal pref is chief as his coating is nothing short of amazing. I would rather forego the tinted color for the clarity alone, but chief's AR is far more durable as well. Omega's AR is susceptible to surface scratching from simply wearing the watch under a cuff. Many a gen owner will end up stripping the coating off, and in some cases, that is the AD's recommended fix as well. So personally, if I'm going to have AR on the watch, I'd prefer it to last. Having first hand experience with chief's AR, I know what to expect and can count on it for longevity. If I bought gen, I'd consider having that redone with chief AR as well. It makes a huge difference, and factory AR on many of the gens will seem so inferior once you've seen chief's in person. And so far, no regrets with the project at all. I mainly wanted to see how far one could take the 4th generation in terms of modification. It's one of the tamer projects I've done, and the ease of which made things almost a little too simple. Still fun... But not much of a challenge...

Needs more strap on action...

If you have a solid ceramic version, I can confirm that the tube is integral to the inner case body:

Funny how we tend to inspire our little ones My 5 year old is constantly watching me put things together, and one day wanted to try his hand at it as well. So, I opened one of my spares boxes to him and let him pick and choose the parts he liked. I then walked him through the process of fitting the dial, setting the hands and casing everything up. I need to snap a pic of his handy work, but he did a great job in building a very interesting fantasy Rolex Your daughter did a fantastic job on her project! Planting the seeds for future hobbyists...

Prof- They're Frye Dillons; great boots and super comfortable once broken in. Great quality and they develop nicely over time. Definitely among my favorites!

Weds- 9411: Thurs- Franken PO:

My usual daily footwear- Just a pair of Fryes... And some Chucks...

You'll need 7750 specific hands to fit on a rep. Depending on which rep you have, that is... And even then... It really depends on which A7750 you have as there is variation in subdial hand sizes between slow beat, fast beat and hybrid...

A timeless classic! Looks absolutely fantastic! The 6263/5 has always been a personal favorite, right along with the old Carrera 12.

There isn't a good option out there as they all have their faults. The problem with the ND Trading dial is the font type, particularly the 'S' that they use; it's an instant 'tell' The Yuki dials are pretty standard HK fare, and easy to spot due to the fonts and serifs. The MBW dial is maybe the closest in appearance, but again, it has it's flaws (date alignment, etc). Personally, I'd build a great white using a gen dial with matching hands and a 1570 in a Phong or NDT case. Just my $0.02...

A very nice looking watch, save for that mangled center seconds hand... Actualy, now that I look at it again, I take issue with all the subsidiary hands; they're way too fat!

Can't add much more... But you'll always want to get a good shot of the clasp stampings, the end link stampings, pic of the first link stamping and also a good profile shot of a link or two as well as the clasp profile. One can tell a lot by those details...

2nd that, dluddy. We're all here for different reasons, but we all share one common factor- That is a love and enjoyment of watches. We can disagree on things, and sometimes we don't all see things eye to eye. In a community of 20,000+ members, that's to be expected. However, we should extend the courtesy to one another to keep discussion civil and to respect one's opinions, even if they do not align with that of your own. While some may not appreciate James' new watch, he seems to be enjoying it just fine. While it might not be a watch that a particular individual would prefer to own, it may be something that another would. Doesn't make things wrong or right... Just individual preference. If everyone in the world all liked and disliked the same things, it would be a very uninteresting place to be

JB is a good source... Ofrei as well. Can't go wrong with either...

Closed Factory pieces come up every now and then, but it can take a while for one to surface. Gotta be patient and quick on the draw. Or, just pick up a pre-owned gen. They're not very expensive; I saw one sell recently on TZ for $990 with boxes, papers, etc. If you plan on having a Closed Factory piece modded, you'll spend as much in parts and work.

Looks like a replication of a 6239; nice non-Oyster dial and pump pushers. Details look decent- Nice thin crown, asymmetric pusher spacing. Dial is okay; that's always going to be the weak link in any vintage Cosmo. Probably a Venus manual wind inside looking at the subdial spacing. It is a Honpo pic; unfortunately, he doesn't sell outside of Japan, so you'll need someone to help with a proxy buy or similar kind of transaction. If you're after a nice vintage Daytona, hit up Spin for one of his 7760 DW's. That's a good way to go, methinks Not sure if he can do a non-Oyster, non-screw pusher model, but it's worth asking about.

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