ubiquitous

From crystal to caseback, my Jimmy Fzu case/crystal and DSN caseback measures 13.4mm-ish. Old school DSN PVD case- 13.2mm... I've also got an unknown case that I'm using for Pre-V that measures 14.1mm, crystal to caseback. Jimmy on left, my 'Pre-V' case on the right...

Can't wait to see your review on this, R!

Wow... That's pretty cool, TeeJay! Any chance you can have one done up in a display case that reads: 'Proof that Tony Stark has a heart' ?

Hmmm... I'm not quite sure I understand your question, BROM. Are you asking whether it is a modular construction chrono (i.e. a module added to a standard base movement)? The Ebel 134 is the El Primero 400; it's a fully integrated chronograph with a 36000bph rate. The 134 is definitely a chronograph movement built specifically with that complication in mind.

Agreed- That's what makes the hobby fun and interesting to me...

Love that 6152! Gorgeous!

Beautiful...

That's a THICK crystal! Also... Where's the caseback? Looking good so far!

Hi gang, Just to chime in... My pics will be coming shortly... Give me a few days... Cheers! R

Looks great, E. I love Zig's vintage lume...

Disney World?

More to do with the rotor noise... Gen Rolex movements use an axle bearing for their rotors instead of ball bearings like ETA. There's a difference in sound when the rotor moves...

The 'sweep' of the higher 36000a/h beat rate is smoother than 28800a/h, but not by much; we're talking 10 ticks per second compared to 8 ticks per second. The longevity of such a movement would only be a concern when not properly maintained; as long as these movements are serviced at appropriate intervals, they should last as long as any other movement. Here's a pair of my own 36000bph movements: The Movado signed El Primero 400/3019 is probably around 30 years old and still running strong.

Looks great! Finished product assembled with the bracelet would be interesting to see...

Fri- Franken-9411: Sat- Franken 16520's: Sun- FGD dialed, Jimmy cased Pre-A 002:

@DVS- GREAT comparo!

I am fairly certain that parties interested in what occurs on these kinds of fora are indeed among us, listening, watching and reading. This kind of discussion, with this kind of membership base (in aggregate among all the different forums) cannot remain underground or hidden...

They retain parts to keep a tight grip on their parts distribution. Part of it, I'm sure is to also counter the franken builders and the sort to a certain degree, but their larger concern I believe is to control the parts market (i.e. keeping secondary and used parts markets to a minimum) and price compression levels. i.e. if you want genuine parts for your genuine Panerai, the only option is through the Panerai Service Center; taking the watch to a 3rd party source will not net the same results. Rolex did the same, cutting off many independent watchmakers from being able to obtain parts, etc. by closing accounts over time.

I just love that deep, dark PVD tone... Looks so rich in color... Another work of art!

Had a spare 2836 laying around- While not the same caliber, the basics should be the same. Movement sans dial: Remove the datewheel: Just press this little spring and line up the teeth to the slot on the cover below: Without datewheel- Again... Here's the little spring holding the datewheel in tension: For a 2836, the set levers will be exposed once the datewheel is lifted off (I don't recall ofhand if this is the same for the 2824; I don't have one on hand to compare and it's been a while since I worked with one). What you'll want to look for specifically is whether either of these levers are out of place: Simply re-align the one that is off, and test fit the stem to make sure that it catches. Be sure to note that moving forward, you should always use a 1.2mm screwdriver to press the release, otherwise you risk pressing the button in too far and causing the same problem.

Thanks, guys. It's always interesting... Thinking of unconventional methods to improve the little details. A fun experiment and with decent results. Is it perfect? No... It's not gen perfect. But in normal, every day situ it looks pretty dang good; even in up close macro pics, it's a good looking replacement option (in my opinion) that is low cost, and relatively easy to implement (this took me 10 minutes to do and cost me all of nothing out of pocket). A big improvement over the pearl that comes standrd for certain. As for durability- Mine has held up well over the last few days- It's solidly affixed to the insert and it's held it's own to water, rinsing, etc. Since it's relatively low profile, I don't worry about it getting knocked on or beaten on, catching on a desk corner and popping off, etc. I have enough to do a few more... maybe enough for 3 or 4... Have to keep a few aside for reserves and have a few lined up already for friends, etc.

Easy fix, but you have to remove the hands, dial, datewheel and plate covering the keyless works. Usually it's the set lever that has to be massaged back into place; not difficult to fix by any means, but it does help to be familiar with removing these parts. If I have some time later, I'll do a photo tutorial on the procedure...

Wow... Just wow! That lume job... Looks... PERFECT! Steady hands... Gotta have steady hands and an artist's touch...

Zig- Phenominal work! The before and after is like night and day difference! I am sure the owner will be ecstatic when this comes back to them! Terrific post and pics, as always... Cheers, R

For cleaning, lube and reg, $275 is pretty damn good!