ubiquitous

Unfortunately, not an ideal solution, but at this point there isn't a whole lot to work with I'll give this some more thought.

Hmmmm... Channeling the underside of the insert is a definite no-go. The only thing I can suggest is to maybe use some automotive grade double stick tape and press the bezel on that way. It would be non-permanent, provide a bit of build up to the backside of the insert and allow the insert to be secured to the bezel. Thoughts?

themuck- I currently have two Germans that are bleeding the bank account dry 1) The wife's A4 Avant Sport, mentioned prior. Great car when it's working right. However, we had to drop it off last night yet again as the fuel gauge isn't working properly (a byproduct problem to the fuel pump and filter being replaced, I'm sure). 2) I drive a C230 Kompressor Sport. It's a staid, boring car that doesn't do a whole lot very well. But, of the 5 years I've owned it, I've only racked up 27k miles and it's been paid off for three of those years, so I can't complain too much. It works well as daily driver to and from the place I call work; my 5 minute commute doesn't afford me much seat time, however. Unfortunately, the next car for the wife will be a Lexus or some other Japanese brand. Anymore, I'm tired of hassling with cars and service drop offs, etc. etc. I just want something that requires as little maintenance as possible. My next car is likely to be Japanese as well. Or, perhaps a daily beater along with something fun to keep in the garage for use on those particularly nice days when a day of hooky from the office seems like a good idea

The method of channeling a lip around the underside of the insert seems to make the most sense, but is quite risky. Do you have an underside shot of the insert, by chance? Aside from the current road block, the project is looking good!

vly- For a WM9 Z serial, you'd need a 93250 bracelet with the SELs.

Price- Depending on age, condition, complete package, etc. can start as low as $3500 and scale as high as $11k(?!). I think these higher end figures are optimistic prices; not sure how many are actually trading hands at these levels. Interesting... Wasn't that long ago that a 1675 was only $3k.

Ahhh... Well, for one, it's an InterWatches watch for sale. Everything from them is pricey. Also... The watch posted looks like a 1675; I only see an 'OYSTER PERPETUAL' under Rolex (16750's have OYSTER PERPETUAL DATE). $7k definitely seems high for a 16750. Edit: Interestingly enough, I looked through some scans of early 16750's and those do indeed reflect 'OYSTER PERPEUTUAL' only; no DATE.

So, which one has the bezel modified to saw through ropes and the like when you've been caught by Goldfinger? Also, where's the Pussy Galore?

Yeah... $529, which is what I paid for mine. If they revised the price to less than the Euromariner, I'd start stocking up.

Is this a piece to wear? Or to put away? GMT's have been slowly on the rise; if you're going to go for one, I'd personally consider a 16750, as the quick set date is something you'll come to appreciate quickly. Of the several 1570's I've dealt with, the slow set date has always left a bad taste in my mouth. That is, unless you plan on wearing the watch on a daily basis, to which case keeping the date up to current isn't much of an issue; you'll only have to deal with setting the date on 30 day calendar months If you're after a Tudor Snowflake, go for an M.N. 7016 or 7021 with Military papers. If you're after a piece to simply wear, I think a 9411 is a nice way to go. If you can bump your price range up a bit, a 7928 can be within obtainable range. The one problem with a lot of vintage pieces is that they're not always correct. Sometimes you'll have some wonky parts fitted or some hackneyed fix performed.

The more and more I look at it, the more I find myself buckling. I may just have to pick one up as well...

Ahhh... What a relief it must be to be unpacked and in the process of getting settled! That chaotic scramble of boxes doesn't look like much fun to go through... But at least you have that fantastic patio to enjoy!

The 14790 is the 36mm model, but is still nicely proportioned. And very affordable, too; $5k seems to be the going rate for this reference (+/-). The arabic dial is a hard one to find, however; not the most common dial option out there. I myself love it as it's very similar to the Nick Faldo LE (only without the waffle pattern in the center).

For $5k, you can grab an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790. The arabic dial as pictured above is one of my favorites.

Just checked the spares; I only have one for a 1675, not a 1665.

Truth.

Looks great!

Thank you, sir

Nautilus is a great watch! I love mine dearly... 3800/1A is a fun one as well...

Shundi- That's a beautiful Constellation and a great review! There's just something about the charm and character of a vintage Omega; the attention to detail as you've pointed out in just the fit of the bezel alone is a great example of the level of workmanship they've put into their watches. The case looks as though it fits comfortably on the wrist and with elegant lines. Very nice!

Damn. I may have to add a 16570 to my collection as well. A nice white dial would be a nice complementing addition to my crown family For now, I'll have to settle... Mon: Tues:

A great, well balanced collection! Nice mix of divers, GMTs and chronos and all very purpose oriented. Quality AND quantity!

All 3 of the watches shown have half of the subdials striped.

Ziggy's produced some of the most amazing lume jobs I've ever seen. Incredible work, achieved by the hand of an artist

I've seen "reproduction" plate kits before; essentially the mainplate, bridges, etc. Add your own gear train, balance/escapement, mainspring etc. to build a complete working movement. Not cheap either; I'm assuming this kit was offered to provide a solution to someone who may be restoring an old worn out movement, as obtaining all those gears, etc. would end up putting final cost over the cost of just buying another V72 or V72 powered donor...