alt.watch.obsessive

I ordered one from him and it was 100% legit as far as I could tell. Same as other gen cases. Some signs that is WAS used, albeit lightly, not a new production. But I'm also curious about how he always has similar stuff. Note he does use the same pictures over and over...you have to read the description for the condition...mint, excellent, etc. I assume he uses the movements to repair sport models? Not sure why he would have a continuous flow of datejust cases. Cheers.

I'm sorry, but pronouncing ETA as a word is like pronouncing IWC eye-wik. E-T-A for me.

On the original topic, isn't sombody selling a caseback or two in the trade area? Could be wrong. If the movement works, and the balance area is clear, don't worry too much about glass getting where it doesn't belong. It should drop out of the balance fairly easily. I usually 'test' my glue-work it seems by dropping almost every movement I touch--so it happens Been trying not to do that anymore. Cheers.

Have you guys seen the new 111 posted by Angus on TRC. Like the 036 with the decent crown and CP fix. That might be the noobmariner of PAMs. Of course, I'm partial to the sausage dials, and this one is not $99. Here: http://www.replicacollector.com/members/in...showtopic=31913 Cheers.

Hi Freddy, Just thinking out loud...it sounds like the case back will put pressure on the screws to hold the movement forward in the case, so that's one dimension. The stem will keep it from twisting...not sure if that's a dimension LOL, but two. Can you find a thin material that you can cut to make clamps of a length so they are absolutely flush against the outer edge of the case when screwed in? That should keep it from going side to side in the case even if the clamps on their own are not quite enough. Otherwise, have you ground the ring that fit the other watch (assuming it's too big for the DW)? Good luck. I admire anyone who even attempts a watch like this. Steve.

Rosnik, I think that IS a superdome in your picture...bit hard to tell with all that's going on there. Correct guys?

BUY A REAL OPENER! I'm completely with offshore...after screw drivers and tweezers, it's the most important investment you can make. Put saran wrap between the opener and the watch if you're having trouble with scratching. Look at the completed auctions on ebay. Some sellers want quite a bit, but you should find a tool with a set of dies for 60usd or so, I believe. Cheers.

Great. Now we can all be depressed about how bad our reps are ;-). Joking of course. The MBW case with a gen crystal is pretty f-ing close. Thanks so much! Lots of angles we don't usually see.

Not from here, but search my posts for frankenjust. Cheers.

I've used that exact dial. In fact, I have the watch on right now! I'm not a huge Rolex guy, but I really like the all silver datejust. I went with smooth bezel and oyster bracelet. Good luck.

Hmm...How to put this. Camera in the plane of the bezel at say 5:30. Again, don't worry if its a pain. Cheers.

Hey Nanuq, I hate to ask, but could I request a shot of the CGs shot from the bottom looking along the right side of the watch. I have the NGT version of the Mark II dial, and want to see what more I need to do the the MBW case. If it's too much bother, don't worry. Of course you should wear it! Unless it leaks I don't know what harm is likely to come to it. That's the beauty of vintage. Cheers, Steve.

Real is best, but Clarks are really nice. Good luck.

That looks like a modern crown in the auction. The 1665 crown should have slightly different markings. The older crowns also seem to narrow more noticably where they meet the case. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Does anyone know if the older crown will fit to the modern tube? I ask because the crown seems to be easier to find than the tube. Steve.

Caseback on the left is more accurate. Boy, they have the CGs pretty good on these stock. The crown is way too thick I believe, that's the biggest problem. Who did you get this from? Cheers.

The *** is used to keep names private. Their actual user names don't have *** AFAIK. Cheers.

The magic words "not refinished" are missing from the description. Once the dial is refinished it may as well be purple, original or not. It's a looker though isn't it ;-). I'd love to have either watch pictured in this post!

1.20mm. I'm sure there's a post somewhere. Press the button and pull out the crown/stem. Cheers.

Hi Dizzle, Very nice SD. If you don't mind a question...how is the singer dial installed? I assume the feet are in the wrong position for an ETA. Did Rob glue it? Thanks, Steve.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to take the position of the forum's leading Yachtmaster II apologist, this being my third post of this nature. This poor thing's taken far more abuse than it deserves. It's better looking in either variant than the f'ing Daytona with the red hands. I will, however, continue my crusade in silence from this point forward. If only Rolex would go back to making watches like the one in my avatar...

Paul posted the Women's version at a reasonable price last week as I recall if it's the same rep/factory. This looks like a men's version? I was considering this for the little woman.

If they arrive working (i.e. and set/wind etc. for a few days), I have yet to have one fail. Mostly high quality movements.

Agreed, but North America is not as far up the list of luxury watch buying regions as one might think. Plus we have relatively safe mail. I'd want to hand my $100,000 watch directly to the Patek general manager in Brazil...and return his daughter when I got my watch back.

LOL...I was going to joke Sea Hawk because we KNOW there's no rep of that. But, there it is on your list. I think you have your answer right there.

Hi Mickey, Sounds like a legit problem. Does it engage and then come loose as you set the time or wind the watch? Sometimes the stem is just poorly made...do you have a local watch repair shop near you...they should be able to tell. Good luck.