freddy333

Between the seller's low number of previous sales (I did not check to see what the previous items were) & defocused pics, I suspect this is a scam waiting to happen. So, if someone is considering this for the movement alone, I would be prepared to receive something less than you are expecting.

Still & again

The model is not my cup of tea, but I like what you have done. I think you made the correct choice with that case. The beveling on this 1 looks more correct than the other case. You might consider a bit of enhanced patination to knock down the brand new appearance.

Overall, number 2 looks best to me. The Comex lettering on gens is always painted gloss black, not flat & not simply the background color bleeding through. Most aftermarket dials get this wrong. But, as always, each of the dials contains inaccuracies & you should research gens so you can make the best selection for you.

There are many threads discussing the issues & possible options for 1665 casebacks, but, basically, your options are to either source a gen or try Phong (not perfect, but close). Either way, be prepared for sticker shock.

Yes, you will likely have to 'roll' your own hour hand (out of 2 normal sized hands) since I have not seen any aftermarket hands of the appropriate length. Though you might check with MY & Ming to see if they can have 1 made for you.

That was kind of what I was wonderiing, too.

In that case, (assuming an unmodified 727 in the case & the bracelet is a solid link 78350) I would estimate that you have about $5,500 worth of gen parts. If the bracelet is an earlier 7205 rivet with 71 ends or a 7835 folded link w/x71 ends, then you can add at least a couple grand to that figure, since those bracelets are both rare & highly sought after.

There were 3 threads all started by you & with the exact same title. I deleted the other 2, which is why you can no longer see them. You will find Andrew (TrustyTime), Josh (Joshua) & other selers listed in the appropriate Watches, Clothing & Accessories section.

Actually, it does because, typically, crowns get replaced during normal service. So it is quite expected to see a brand new 704 on a freshly serviced vintage sports watch. The opposite - having an old, beat up crown on an otherwise, pristine watch - makes 1 wonder.

Nice, but where have I seen a bezel insert like that before?

You said the whole watch is genuine except for the hands (& Phong case). So the movement is gen also?

A truly accurate (preferably, non-Oyster) 62xx Daytona dial would be a breakthrough. However, the keys for a proper Daytona dial are - 1. good, thick paint. Ming seems to be heading in the right direction here, but his dials have other issues. 2. properly deep-set subdials (&, as a bonus, the chapter ring area) 3. correct fonts, especially the 3 in the minute totalizer. None of those western (cowboy) style overly serifated fonts, which are a dead give-away 4. correctly shaped coronet As others have suggested, an accurate double red 1665 would also be nice. But the aftermarketeers have been getting very good on just about everything, but the Daytonas. Produce a proper Daytona & you will be legend. Also, I have never seen a nice gold Daytona dial.

Wearing my pre-Comex today

Ditto most of Tomhorn's comments. In general, buying a (flashed) yellow gold replica watch with 'jewels' is a iffy proposition, at best. Considering the current price of gold, logic dictates that the amount/quality of gold flashed onto a steel substrate is not going to be very much. Therefore, unless it spends most of its life sitting in a velour-lined watch case, the lifespan of a 'gold' replica is very limited. Once the yellow gold flashing rubs/wears/scratches off, you either have to toss the watch or walk around advertising the fact that you are another poser with a (LOUD) fake Rolex. But if you have your heart set on bling, try Andrew or Josh, who provide good customer service & can usually source whatever is available. But, before you do anything, I would encourage you to read the Forum Rules & Toad's Guide to buying reps., both of which will help you to avoid newb no-nos (like posting the same question multiple times) & awkward questions (like what is the best......).

I do not usually disagree with Stephane, but, in this case, I have to. The crown looks too worn for that watch. I would either beat up the rest of the case to match the condition of the crown, or, better yet, keep an eye peeled for a gently worn crown.

Because a proper, well designed winder (set correctly for your movements) mimics normal wrist movement, it should not put any more wear on a properly maintained watch than the watch would receive from daily use. However, if the movement has not been maintained (properly overhauled at least once every 5 or so years), then I would recommend against using a winder. For whatever it is worth, the only watches that really ought to be kept on winders are those with non-quick set dates that take so long to set that, were it not for the winder keeping them charged, they may not get worn because they are a pain to set. As far as 7750s go, the few times I have placed my secs @ 6 Daytonas on winders (my winders are all bidirectional), even set for 1000TPD, the winders have failed to keep the mainsprings fully charged. Everything else does very well on winders at their recommended TPD settings

Panerai

Was the watch dropped or banged just before it began running fast? Most likely, the hairspring spirals are either hung-up on an adjacent wheel or sticking together. Or, it may simply be magnetized. Remove the caseback (or have a watchmaker remove it) & inspect the hairspring with a loupe or magnifying glass.