freddy333

Not to spoil the party, but I think you need a better bracelet.

In terms of 7750-power, DW's claim to fame was that his cases were the 1st available (that I know of) with asymetrical pushers, which is 1 of the distinguishing features of gen 62xx Daytonas, which was lacking on all (known) previous 7750-powered 62xx Daytona cases. If you post a full frontal pic of yours, we can tell you if your case has this important feature.

ebay (yes, it is gen).

It is well past midnight, so it is officially Monday & just returned from a late movie (Project X - My review - OUT OF CONTROL) wearing my 'Graph

A jubilee might look nice, but I think you have a rep crown on there & the pearl & lume stick out in a less-than optimal way. But, otherwise, 1 of my favs & the only Tudor that is cooler than a Sub

Marty - I think you are being much too generous. This is an out-&-out new, aftermarket dial, nothing gen about it. Whenever a seller's description infers that he has more than 1 of a rare dial ('This is a beautiful dial but is my last one so I it must go for the right price'), you can pretty much click the next button & consider yourself lucky. Whoever bid over a grand (so far) is going to be very disappointed the 1st time they post it on a gen forum.

I thought I would revive this thread with an updated pic of (most of) my Rolex-only collection since there have been a number of changes since it 1st appeared at the beginning of the thread Anyone else have anything (significantly updated) to add?

If you can reduce the extent of the 'rust' around each pinion hole (both its width & darkness), it might look reasonable. But I would remove it from the crown (I have never seen a rusted crown (they are usually white gold) unless the entire dial is badly water damaged). After replacing the missing index markers, I would also dab a bit of black fingernail polish (or similar black paint) on them all (black Newman dials have black markers)

Yes, virtually everything.

Ending the work week the way it began

You may be right. Been awhile since I worked on an ETA.

If it helps, part number is 6932. Holding breathe...........................

Speaking of balances & hairsprings, anyone have or know of a source for a NOS balance/hairspring combo for a 1030?

Not sure about some of their facts, but a good read anyway.

There are numerous illustrated guides in the Watchmaking forum, but this is the basic procedure - Pull the stem out to the time-setting position Remove the caseback Remove the 2 bridles/tabs with screws along the perimeter that fix the movement in the case Press the stem release button near the stem (press only enough to release the stem - too hard & you may disengage the keyless works, so the stem will not lock back in) Place some lint-free paper in the palm of your hand (to keep from touching the movement with your skin), turn the case over & gently allow the movement to slide out Slide a small sheet of plastic or thin cardboard between the hour hand (or bottom hand on the stack) & the dial to protect the dial Assuming you do not have a hand-puller, take a pair of small flat-head jewelers screwdrivers (make sure the tips are both clean & in good shape) & insert them between the second hand & minute hand from opposite sides, 180 degrees apart from each other (east & west). Gently rotate each screwdrive in an opposite direction until the second hand slides off the stack & carefully remove it. Repeat for the minute & hour hands. Loosen the 2 screws on the side of the pillar (main) plate of the movement to release the dial feet & you can then either lift the dial off or gently slide a small, flat-head screwdriver between the bottom of the dial & top of pillar to lift the dial off. Good luck.

Looks like he did

Auto - Would you care to do a tutorial guide (with pics) on how to change that center sweep second pinion bushing?

Yes, I just heard the news. Very sad, indeed.

Works for me. Because most vintage watches get repeated polishings over the years, there is no real guide to how CGs are supposed to look. As long as they look worn, about the worst anyone can say is, 'Whoever polished this last did a poor job' (I mean that in a generic sense, not in this case).

Could be either keyless works or a duff crown.In the latter case, replace the crown & see if that helps. If not, you need to remove the hands/dial & check alignment of the keyless works.

Not sure which made my jaw drop 1st - the watch or the pic. Either way, it definitely got my attention. There is definitely some heavy metal in this thread gentlemen.

I would suggest that you take a trip to your local Authorized Rolex dealer (AD) & sample their wares until you have honed-in on a single model. Then, research the cost of pre-owned & compare that to your bank account. if you want & can afford the gen, get it. If not, get a rep of the same watch. The last thing you should do, when ambivalent, is to buy a gaggle of reps. Especially, when you are just starting out.

Big leap? Did I miss something?

Low compression generally means either worn valves/seats, head gasket or rings. Is he burning oil (bluish smoke coming out the tailpipe)?