freddy333

I have sold a number of watches over the years & never suffered from seller's remorse. None said 'Rolex' on the dial, which is probably why.

'Graph

A great video (that made the rounds here a year or so ago). Still, recommended viewing if you have not seen it.

Put this on for dinner & it is right where I left it (still Friday night)

Most likely answer - an Arab oil Sheikh.

Wore my Longines today

The seller has a variable selling history. That is, he has sold some good stuff & some highly questionable stuff. In this case, all the parts that you can see clearly see look legit. The problem is that you cannot see everything. Now, that may be due to an oversight, but it could also have been done purposely in an effort to hide questionable details. Specifically, I cannot see the stamping on the leaves of the clasp & the end links have definitely come from another bracelet (they have the telltale mangling/damage on their hinges from being unbent/rebent with tools), so you have to consider the likelihood that the leaves may have been replaced as well. As many times as I have seen leaves replaced simply to produce a bracelet with a specific date, I have also seen them replaced with aftermarket parts. Were it me, I would request good, clear pics of both sides of the clasp leaves (so you can make out the content of the stamping) or bid with the understanding that questions remain.

Ditto BGGodwin's comments. This will definitely be a very accurate 16520 (externally). However, I always question the logic in constructing these frankens when you can purchase a 100% gen 16520 for only a few grand more (16520s can be had in great shape starting around $10k). I certainly get the do-it-yourself aspect of the parts hunt/build, but, when you factor in the time it took to gather all the parts, the cost to purchase/assemble them & the fact that you can never sell it as a gen, it does not compute for me. Still

Not sure what a WSD is, but my (unmodded) MBW arrived looking like this Today, after replacing everything except the mid-case, my (gen-powered with working Hev) DRSD looks as above or like this

Wearing Goldie again today

I have not read the VRF thread, but, from the text of the letter, I smell something very fishy here. The letter seems to have been written by a non-English-speaking individual (I would guess Asian). Based on the letter's grammatical form, it is pretty clear that the author's native language is NOT English ('Send to you as a reminder that', 'I hope you'll like it makes a special decoration' & 'Don't forget to take the letter Sales Department'), which would make little sense coming from a 'John Ogilvie', Pan Am's U.S. General Manager, who, at the time, would have been based in Chicago. So I do not think it takes Sherlock Holmes to deduce that if the letter is fake.............. Now, on the other hand, my Pan Am incidentals are 100% genuine, so.............

For the 1st time in quite awhile, I wore Phase 1 today

The brake may be misaligned or worn, which allows the hour totalizer (lower subdial) to run when the stopwatch function is not in use. To verify this, you will need to have the watch properly serviced. Because that hand is not tracking the hour hand, I do not think it is 1 of those older Seagull copies.

The 'new' insert looks great. Looking forward to seeing this with a T19 & 9315.

Usil - I enjoyed your French motorcycle adventure. Looks like fun.

Thanks, Flex. The dial color is very cool, because it looks like rust under indoor light & varies from brown to that red you see in the pic above in some outdoor light. Most of the time it has gradients of brown. I originally had a bleached gen insert, but my friend (in the pic, whose opinion, especially on matters of style, I value) thought the contrasting new/aftermarket insert (which is the correct type for the watch) looked best. So that is the 1 you see.

Ditto. After replacing the (clean/oiled - the oil should cover roughly 1/3 of the surface & placed in the center of the flat side) jewel gently fold the spring down over the top of the setting & use an oiler, small tweezers or pin to gently compress 1 leg of the spring while sliding the leg down under the ridge below the face of the setting to lock it in place. Then, repeat for the other leg. This is a different type of shock spring, but this pic shows how the ends fit into the ridge just below the face of the shock mount

I would leave it as-is, & if you decide not to do a 6239 or use the 726, PM me.

I ended up wearing the gold Newman again today

If that is the case, someone should Twitter Victoria an invite her to return (I do not use Twitter). The 1 thing RWG is missing is a female regular.

I posted a couple of threads detailing the differences between gen 7206 rivet bracelets & the typical MBW-style rep rivet bracelets which you can search out. (The 7206 fits 20mm width lugs on many vintage Rolex sports watches like Subs.) But, if credibility is your goal, I think these pictures tell the whole story. With the exception of the polished finish on the underside of the gen links, Yuki's rivet 7206 bracelets look almost exactly like the gen in these pictures (check with Yuki if you have questions about his other bracelets) Again, be aware that, at least the last time I received a 7206 from Yuki, these 7206 bracelets did not accept 2mm dia springbars. So, unless your bracelet comes with 2mm springbars already in it (Yuki was fitting them himself for a while, but I do not know if he still does this - check with Yuki), you may have trouble fitting them (I gave up trying).