freddy333

Great score, JoJo.

xelorrolex -

A DW quality PN dial with the correct 'long-tail' 3 in the minute totalizer subdial (without adding the usual 2 steps backward for every step forward) (This is what it should look like)

Like (just about) everyone else, I am ending the work week wearing my beater

Both purchased around the turn of the century & still going strong

Pics are too big. Try to limit them to 1024x768 or thereabouts.

If you mean the 2nd from the right, it looks like a Cartier.

Congratulations, Dad.

Unless the watch was just serviced. I do know what you mean though. But there are plenty of examples on those other (gen) sites of well-worn vintage pieces with pristine xtals. I guess it is up to the look you are after. For the most part, I tend to side with the worn insert/clean crystal crowd & I do not think it works against me (these bezels/inserts/pearls are gen, as are the xtals (except for the 1665, which is Clarks))

Glad to hear you got it running without unearthing any nasty (movement sourcing) surprises or too much (financial) pain. Ditto that.

I cannot remember who it is, but, believe it or not, there is another long-time VRF/TZ member whose Daytona collection puts even Zane's massive collection to shame. He does not post pics often, but when he does, they usually stop me dead in my tracks.

A Sub (1680) has a thinner case & bezel than a SD (1665), which negates any possibility of accuracy no matter what parts you are able to afix to it.

Nice work.

Ditto JoJo.

On ebay, you should be able to find good used crowns starting at $40. New or NOS, $75+. New/NOS tubes about $50+.

Great work, especially for your 1st try. If the bracelet was not such a dead give-away, you might have fooled me into thinking it was a gen.

Same again (but with the end link rings at 6 reversed so the gaps are, properly, on the backside of the bracelet)

Accuracy is in the eye of the beholder. What may be inaccurate to me, will likely pass for perfect to many others. When it comes to the accuracy of a given rep, your best bet is to research the model you are interested in (there are tons of sites & books about gen watches that will provide all the info you need) so YOU know what to look for when gauging the quality of a given rep. I can say that I have never seen a rep that does not contain a number of mistakes & that includes these. In the case of these 2 (as is often the case with reps) they are essentially the same case & dial with different movements. As to movement reliability & rep watches - all rep watches come with used or unserviced movements, so they are, functionally, ticking time-bombs. For this reason, it is always recommended that you ignore sellers' claims of movement quality &/or in-house servicing & factor in the cost of having your watch overhauled by a professional watchmaker if you want it to keep running (properly) for 5-7 years (the recommended time interval between recommended overhauls for all mechanical watches - gen or rep). A cheap non-name Asian movement can run forever if it is properly serviced on a regular basis. Similarly, just about any movement in good condition can be made to run within COSC specs. It all comes down to proper servicing & maintenance.

In my case, I was building a watch without a date, which is why I had to modify the calendar ring. Since you are building a watch with a date, it may not be a good idea to modify it. I would check with the seller of the case (Yuki) & ask what he recommends since the case was designed to fit a 1575.

RYM - Although your case is slightly more accurate than the MBW, read the end of this post. It explains what I had to do to get the 157x to fit into my MBW case.

This (gen, vintage Made in USA) jubilee has been on there for quite some time (though I did shoot a few pics of the 6542 with it a while back). I know a jubilee on a diver's watch looks, at 1st glance, a bit odd (I thought so, too). But once you get used to the look, I actually prefer it (at least on a Rose Sub) over the standard Oyster. I think it gives this watch a bit of edge that it lacks with the Oyster. Oh, the rings are backwards (they flop around alot when the springbars are out). I just spun them around so you cannot see the gaps anymore). Thanks.

Some great shots today, gentlemen.

The metal bits on the dial (crown, hour markers, etc) have small pins that fit into holes on the dial & are glued (from the back of the dial) into place. Once the movement is removed from the case & the hands have been removed from the dial, the rest is relatively easy. However, if you do not have experience removing/reinstalling a movement, I would leave this to a watchmaker or someone with experience. It is very easy to mess something up (even without knowing it).