freddy333

Having spent a bit of time working on Capitol Hill &, separately, publishing a medical journal, I would not trust Washington to build a paper airplane, let alone operate a health care system. & I say that having been a life-long Democrat. If a system like Britain's National Health could be perfected to: eliminate the long wait times (often resulting in pain, suffering &, yes, premature death); bureaucratic ineptitude getting in between doctors/patients; advance medical research; & be fully funded by way of a VAT-like tax (to replace the current federal/state/local income tax system), I would be all for having someone like Visa run it (with government oversight).

Regardless of the hyperbole of sellers, no rep is ever a 100% accurate copy of a genuine watch. Although gens are somewhat overpriced, it is virtually impossible to make an exact copy of a $10k watch for $300, especially when the rep copy is assembled under less than laboratory grade conditions & without rigorous QC. Each rep has its own set of sins (inaccuracies). The rep made from factory A may get 3 details wrong on the dial & 2 on the bracelet. The same model watch made in factory B may get 2 different details wrong on the dial & a different 1 on the bracelet with an additional mistake on the crown. The point is that each rep has its own set of sins & different people rank different sins differently. That is why I can tell you which rep of 3 samples is the best for me, but it may not necessarily be the best for you. What you need to do is spend some time researching pics & details of the specific gen watch model you are interested in. If it is a current model, make a few trips to dealers & try them on (it does not cost anything to try on watches). Note how the watch feels on your wrist. Note how the metal feels & reflects light. Note how the crown feels when you wind the watch & set the time. Note how the bracelet or strap feels & reacts to your wrist movements. Once you have a good feel for how the real thing looks & feels, then you are in a good position to select the rep that you can be happy with.

Enhanced patination (artificial aging & patina) is definitely more art than science, which is why there is no single book or guide (what works on 1 piece may not work on the next). Also, as others have suggested, correctly in my experience, most artificial aging goes way overboard, ending up with a franken that looks (suspiciously) like a caricature of a old watch. Spend some time reviewing alot of genuinely old watches & compare those to artificially aged reps & I think you will see what I mean.

Grinding (with a Dremel or similar tool) is the preferred way to enlarge the bezel's opening (sanding would take forever).

Forget the hardware store, as fraggle said, you are not likely to find clips that small there. But, while you are out, stop in at any watch repair shop & they will probably give you a couple. Some eyeglass shops may have them as well. Failing all that, you may have to learn how to navigate ofrei or 1 of the other watch parts houses' websites.

Nice, but it would have been much better had cameraman/editor stuck with watches instead of panning around the room & inserting lengthy shaky/still shots of non-horologic bottles, fruit & walls. Is this really what films schools are teaching today, or is it just the result of overindulgent medical marijuana usage?

Only mid-case remains (& that has been modified & aged with 6 years of normal wear), but this began life as a standard MBW

2 beauties, but, if you want gen dials, I think your options are limited to black or silver.

Ideally, a bezel tool is the best way, but you can usually remove it by starting with something thinner than a knife, like a razor blade. Get a paint scraper that uses razor blades & work your way around the circumference of the bezel until you can slide it in all the way around easily. I have had some that take 30 minutes of effort before I was able to get the razor to slide in all the way around. It is very important to work, evenly, all the way around & not concentrate on 1 spot. That may bend the bezel, which will make it more difficult to remove (& may ruin it). Once you get to the point where the razor slides in easily, switch to a thin (non-serrated) knife & repeat the procedure. This is a common problem with DW Daytona bezels when the original aftermarket crystal has been replaced with a gen. Be patient, be careful & it should come off. You will probably have to grind the inner circumference of the other bezel to get it to fit properly (snugly, but not so tight that you have to exert alot of pressure to force it over the crystal).

Although it is in another location, my cable tv box has an (empty) IR input jack on the back, so I put it in there. At least, that way, if I discover that it belongs to something else, I just have to remember that I put in the cable tv box. Thanks everyone for the help.

Got to be something else. My stereo components were made in the 1960s, at least 3 decades before wireless arrived in the audio world.

Thanks, mstang83. That is definitely the item in question, but why would an IR receiver have a stereo plug? That part does not make sense.

The only writing on the wire looks to be from the wire maker, not from whoever made the part. The white circle is cover over a 3M adhesive pad. It could be any of the above, but the only wireless components I have are wireless mice, all of which are accounted for & they all have a much larger transmitter (that contains batteries & a transmit button). Otherwise, I do not have any other wireless equipment running here, which is why this is so strange.

I figured it was something like that, but the stereo gear is at least 25 years old, made long before BlueTooth or any other wireless options were even thought of. So it must have come from something else. But what? And if it is some type of audio streaming transmitter, I might be able to use it. But where is the receiver? Otherwise, I would toss it, but I do not want to find out later that it is needed.

Does anyone know what this is or what component it works with? I found it tangled in between some wires behind my stereo & servers, so I have no idea whether it belongs to the stereo or computers? It looks like some type of wireless transmitter, but the other end of the cord has a stereo pin plug, so I am not sure what it is or what it came from? Anyone?

As I am working just past midnight, I thought I would start the Friday Wristies with this mouthwatering shot

They look genuine, but always remember to buy the seller before anything else.

Rolex made a small run of 19mm, gold plated rivet bracelets in the early 60s, mostly for Datejusts & OPs. Although rare & very similar in outward appearance to gold 62xx Daytona bracelets, these are not quite as costly. Actually, I got my 1st gold watch (a 1930s Longine tank) when I began collecting about 30 years ago & have had this (fitted with a 7750-powered Daytona) for a few years. Because it is gold, I rarely wear it (though it retains a permanent place in my collection).

Read Toad's Newbie guide pinned atop the Introduction forum & welcome.

Auto's correct, my mistake (I was thinking the 1030, which is what I was working on when I originally responded, was the same - it is not)

I am not aware of any adjustable components that relate to datewheel position on a 15xx movement.