freddy333

Twin & Triplock crowns contain a spring/plunger assembly, which is what allows the crown cap to move (laterally) beyond the point where it contacts the tube. This is part of what makes the water-tight seal. In this case, as jmb suggested, you need a new crown, which should screw onto the stem. You will need to remove the caseback & (carefully/gently) press the stem release to release the stem to fit the new crown. As this is a common problem with aftermarket crowns, if you plan on keeping the watch, I would replace with a gen crown (check ebay) &, since you have to remove the caseback anyway, I would have the movement professionally overhauled, so you are not back here next week posting that the watch stopped right after having the crown fixed.

Wore goldie to a business meeting today

I have only ever seen a 1530 or 1520 in a 5500 & would be suspect of a 1570. But, as always with vintage Rolex, anything is possible. Pics? & welcome.

Silix, in my experience, is 1 of the slowest dealers around, both in communications & delivery. Although things may have improved in the interceding 3 or 4 years, I had to wait 3 months to receive my last 2 orders & communication was only a bit quicker. Good luck.

Actually, it has been running a bit fast.

Just past midnight (Sunday am) & wearing my OPD

OPD & OTL

Most of what you seek is in Toad's Newbie guide (also pinned atop the Intro forum), which is where you should start.

Working after midnight & decided to my hummer was not getting enough wrist time lately. So I slid this on & figured I might as well start the Thursday wristies

Both look Asian (Rolex is made in Switzerland) to me. If in doubt, at the very least, I would insist on good, clear movement pics.

It is RWG policy not to get involved in private transactions between members. However, since so many are hanging on the outcome of this issue - MD2020 - Regardless of past history, this is the time to make right all accounts. To that end, if you are uncomfortable contacting finn directly, please post the status of his watch or watches & any outstanding payments awaiting you or expected from finn. Please leave out the history & emotion, just the facts. finn - As has been said so frequently that no RWG member has an excuse for being unaware, repeated attempts to contact modders/watchmakers or sending insulting/threatening messages is not the way to deal with people. Members have offline lives & cannot always respond immediately. Always give the person 1-2 weeks to respond before attempting contact again. If you push/rush, you are likely to do little more than to become a pest & get your messages ignored. Finally, once MD2020 has detailed the status of your watches, consider the case closed (as far as RWG & this thread is concerned).

My apologies. Yes, MD2020, please contact all with outstanding orders now.

I am better with vintage (Plexiglas) Subs, but, in most cases, the rehaut on gens tends to be very shallow.

paneraiguy - DW's case can be made to fit either movement &, if cost is not an object, the v72 is the only way to go. I would definitely have it fully overhauled & properly adjusted if you want reliability for the next 5-7 years (when the next overhaul should be performed). In any case, I would swap out your rep Triplock crown for a gen (it should fit the same stem as long as the stem length is ok).

MD2020 - Why have you ignored finn's (repeated) requests? Please contact him NOW & settle this 1 way or the other.

If you use a non-GMT calendar ring, make sure you fully test the date function before assembly. As I found out (the hard way) during my Phase 2 '42 construction, the depth of the datewheel channel in the calendar rings vary between the GMT & standard versions of the 1036. When I used the standard calendar ring on the 1036GMT, the date stuck @ changeover. Not sure if the same holds true for the 15xxGMT, but if you use a non-GMT calendar ring & the date sticks...................

Not.

Excepting the cheezy bracelet, well done.