freddy333

It looks gen, as best as I can tell with poor quality pics. If you post a good, clear macro pic of the rear (underside) of the crown, I can give you a more definite answer. Keep in mind that there are 3 different versions of the 6mm Twinlock & the inner spring/tube components of 2 of them had different diameters. The only way to know for sure if you have a matched pair is to see if they fit together.

Take the screw to a local watchmaker & he will likely have a replacement.

You just need a set of case screws, which are available from all the watch parts houses & many hardware stores (click pic for link)

Correct.

If there is a problem with the threading of either part, it should be visible. If you do not see any damaged threads, then something else is wrong.

Before you begin, you might want to read this 1st.

Always best to use the correct tool (most of the watch houses sell them) If you do not have the tube tool, a small, 3-sided hobby file (wedged inside the tube) can be used for install/removal.

Which of those pics are your new found rep? You might label them, so the rest of us can follow you. Depending on your skills, you may be able to successfully remove the crown guards (I assume those are the 'steps' you referred to), but the case is still too thick for a vintage (CG-less) Sub or GMT. Considering the condition of the case, a better (& more realistic) option would be to upgrade the dial/movement (assuming the original movement is not an ETA, which is a good movement), crown/tube (the tube is the threaded tube that screws into the side of the case onto which the crown screws down onto) & crystal with either genuine (gen) parts or better quality aftermarket parts.

I think you need to ask the seller. No one here can predict the future availability of the seller's stock.

1665 shares its insert with the 5513/1680. Go gen or, if your 1665's bezel is gen or made to gen specs, click me

If the end links are too wide, you may have to enlarge the opening between the lugs. This is somewhat common on aftermarket Daytona cases.

Interesting watch, but it must have been an Asian estate sale.

Sorry, I have no experience with POs. I was speaking for all reps in general.

How dare you call Mr. Slimeball an idiot. Consider yourself lucky. Most of the time, you never get a refund. Mr. Slimeball even registered a complaint about me with ebay once because I complained that he sent me a part that did not match the pic/description on his website (even though I had his own pics to prove my case, ebay took his side ).

On reps, either part may strip soon after arrival. This is a common problem with reps & something, along with having the movement professionally overhauled, that you should have corrected soon after you receive the watch. Otherwise, it is just a matter of time until the watch ends up in the bottom of a drawer.

Unless there is a watch that YOU like (in which case, you would not be asking which watch to buy), I would skip reps altogether & go with a Casio, Seiko or Timex. These gens are built better, will last longer, can be easily exchanged/returned under warranty (without having to deal with international shipping/customs issues), rarely arrive with broken/misaligned bits (a common issue with reps, especially those from sellers' budget lines) & come without the added risk of you're being outed as a poseur wearing a rep.

Unfortunately, your hunch about the dial is correct, but, otherwise, the watch looks good.

Correct. But the 5514, made exclusively for the French industrial diving company, Comex, did. The watches sold to Comex had the company's name inscribed on the dial, but the initial 5514 prototypes did not The Sea Dweller, which was essentially a modified retail version of the 5514, evolved from Rolex's work with Comex on the He valve, allowing the watch to survive decompression in hyperbaric chambers.

As an unpolished example, it works for me. Not too sure about the crown though?

Wrong in what way? The initial handful of prototype Subs made for Comex (ie, prior to having Comex signed dials) were off-the-shelf 5513s with He valves added, which is what you see.

Wearing my pre-Comex 5514

Due to the scammer-like pics, it is hard to tell the case's source, but I doubt it is gen.