freddy333

The Silix case I used for my Phase I '42 had a nice bezel (it was better than the $300 bezel/insert combo I bought from CWP) (gen on left, slightly modded Silix on right) Unfortunately, I cannot tell you what the Silix number was, but it was sold as a Sub with a Cartier Sub dial 1 of my original Phase I construction threads (there were several) has the Silix model number. As I recall, it was from their budget line (ie, relatively cheap).

Check rep sellers' listings for 6542s. Some have pretty accurate bezels (that can be improved further with a bit of modding) & the cost of the entire rep is often less than the cost of an aftermarket bezel. Or check with some of the aftermarket parts sellers (like CWP) to see if they will sell their bezel without the insert.

Any dremel will do. Use the felt wheel & green rough for rough polishing (after finish sanding) & the cloth wheel & green rouge for final polishing. Refer to the dremel's instructions for wheel fitting/usage.

I usually use a small, triangular hobby file to remove older tubes. Simply wedge the file inside the tube & unscrew (or grasp the end of the file with plyers to unscrew, if the tube was cemented in). Which lower text? Submariner or Swiss? If the text resides below a clear gloss layer of paint, your only option is to remove the top layer of paint, which is likely to kill the dial. If the text is a top layer, try an eraser (the rubber bit at the end of a pencil). & why are you highlighting your text in gray? The highlighting makes it difficult to read. I do not mean to crimp your style, but plain (black) text is the easiest way to get your points across.

Ending the work week still lugging my Mystery around

I would contact UK customs & ask them (tell them all the watches are gens).

Unless you know the seller very well, I would not show them your signature. & only in cases where the seller is well known would I give them the security code on the back. If in doubt, find another seller (preferably, 1 of those listed on RWG).

I have to admit that I have never worked on a TC watch, but no rep that I have seen has any screws - locking or whatever - in the spacer ring. The only screws that relate to locking the movement into the case are either those that fit through the bridles (small tabs with holes in them that fit into a slot in the sidewall of the case) or those that install into the pillar plate itself (usually half-moon shaped or cone-shaped) & lock directly into the slot in the sidewall of the case (most recent vintage Rolex watches have these.

Oh, I thought you had a gen dial. The problem is that the date window is not cut the same size & in the same location as on the gen watch. So either the movement was meant for a different dial (where the date window was slightly shifted horizontally) or the date window was just cut wrong. Sorry.

Most likely, either you have the wrong xtal or an aftermarket (or defective gen) datewheel.

None of the movement spacers (retaining rings) I have worked with lock into place. They simply sit in the space between the outer edge of the pillar plate & inside wall of the case. The only orientation possible for the spacer is the amount of space cut into the spacer where the stem fits through. Otherwise, you simply secure the dial to the movement by eye (generally, based on the position that best centers the stem @ 3 o'clock &/or the date in the dial's date window, if fitted).

Unless you are removing or repositioning dial feet, I am not aware of any way to alter the alignment of a dial onto an ETA movement (the dial feet fit into holes in the plate & the stem must align with the hole @ 3 in the side of the case). If you are removing dial feet & securing the dial with dial dots or cement, then it is done by simply by eye (align the date in the center of the date window).

Yes, the bottom end is slightly askew to the left. But I would also say that that is somewhat common on reps as it indicates 1 of the differences between a $300 rep & a $6,000 gen.

Looks like a standard rep case or maybe a Yuki. Definitely not genuine or high end aftermarket.

Dremel or polishing wheel with green rouge (for polishing stainless steel).

Alot of these presses do not open sufficiently to work on larger cases &/or superdome xtals, which is why I generally use a hobby vice for most of my pressing work.

I agree on most of the comments above. Too much heat for too long. Your dial looks 'cooked', which is not the effect you want. You might do better with a light coating of matte varnish spray (google 'rwgforum' & 'matte varnish' to see examples). Hands often come out very well with a bit of baking (try 200 degrees F for a few minutes), but keep an eye on them because the line separating nicely patina'd from burnt is just a matter of seconds.

Yes, the crown looks pretty bad. The CGs could use some reshaping as well. You may have to wait for the next version & hope those things get corrected. In the meantime, you might bring this to the seller's attention & see if he can pass the info on to the factory.

All they did was seize his domain name to replace his website with their webpage. Like most rep sellers, he will likely soon 'resurface' with a modified domain & another site.

Yes, you have the correct tube. After the tube is installed in the case, you use a smoothing broach (available from most of the watch parts houses) to enlarge the hole to allow the crown to fit through

click me

Yes, Paris & her posse would be good candidates for a rose Daytona. I rarely wear (but have no intention to sell ) my SS Daytona because it is too blingy (& large). Yes, it would definitely be at home there.