Nanuq

Vibra, I've got a 22mm Breitling mesh I'll send you if you can use it. ??

My eyes!! *claw claw*

Welcome aboard friend.

Gentlemen, let me add my two cents here: MD approached the staff with a request for his own modding section on the board. We went back and forth discussing it, and the consensus was that he needs to show more experience before we give him our official approval. I discussed this with him at length. The very suggestions that you guys have come up with are the same ones I gave him: he needs essentially a business plan, laying out how he's going to manage watches coming in, watches going out, billing, keeping track of projects, what projects he will accept, and communication. I gave him some time to come up with a plan, put it in writing, and him and I could go over it. That would help him answer a bunch of questions before they came up, and give him a hard methodology to follow so he would be successful. I know he is gung ho to get this business going, but then "life happened". As always, things came up. Before he really had a chance to get started, this crap storm has blown up, and now he's trying to put out brushfires as fast as they pop up. That was exactly why I wanted a plan for him to follow. At this time, MD2020 is still not a formally recognized Modder here on the board. That doesn't impugn him in any way, it just means that we are not formally endorsing him or giving him his own section yet. That will come with time, I'm sure. Until then, remember that he's doing the best he can, and approach business transactions with him with open communication, good expectations, and understanding of his limitations. He's a young guy doing his best. Communication (both ways) is the best way to form that positive outcome.

What you REALLY want is stitched black leather. Consider:

Holy smokes Woof, what a score!

Tonight? It's EP-90 gear lube for me! (hypoid)

A thin strip of rubber from an inner tube to fill the gap?

Close, but not quite. Boil it in water with ALUM added. That breaks down the soft steel of the stem and it will pretty much crumble apart.

He also says it's only 2.5mm thick. This could be a winner! It's also the snag-o-matic wrist hair killer....

There are some very handsome riveted bands out there that feel pretty sturdy. Problem is, they're much thicker than the real deal when viewed from the side. If you want to go thin / riveted / folded then the best so far are the bands Yuki had originally. The end links stunk then as well, but they had enough meat to them that you could beat them into shape. The new examples are weak enough that a hard stare will crumple them like Chuck Norris staring down Bruce Lee.

"Ah, but a man's reach should exceed his grasp, or what's a heaven for?" -Robert Browning I bet you saw Heaven when that needle jumped over the previous record! Well done.

I cannot say for certain but I would bet this is the same as the Minh Quy "special quality" 7206, priced around $300. At that time Yuki and NDT were sold out. I did a fairly scathing and very detailed review of MQ's band a few months ago.

Yeah the first time you hold your new, expensive, vintage 9315 or 7836 gen bracelet, fresh from VRM or wherever, you're going to have this huge sick feeling in your stomach. Truth be told, by today's standards for quality and workmanship these should sell for about $9.95 at Wal-Mart.

Where! Where! Where!

You can custom tint your pearls too. I've done several writeups here about it, it's pretty easy. Cut off a straight pin with cutters to give a sharp square nose, then use that as a drill to empty the goo out of your pearl. Next mix up some appliance repair paint, it's lacquer based and slightly eggshell offwhite. If you want to tint it darker, try a bit of espresso or even a pinch of dirt from your garden. When you're ready, dip your "drill" into the lacquer and let it drip into the pearl. Finished result:

What? Where!

Ive recently had work done by a couple guys here. It's not appropriate for me to give an opinion (conflict of interest) so you'll have to do some research and see what other people think.

It's a tough question. Everyone has a different opinion, but I had the same predicament. I did not relume mine because I wanted to, I did it because I had to. The previous (and only) owner had had it done and it was TERRIBLE. I lived with it for 10-15 years like that and finally couldn't stand it anymore. So about 7 years ago I contacted Ziggy and asked him to do his magic. He did a spectacular job. I asked him to make the color look like a gen would after 50 years of use, and to use zero glow in the lume (or as little as possible). I had him do the hands too. Note, he's retired from watchmaking now. And you want to find someone VERY GOOD to do this. Yes, it is now relumed and that hurts its purist collector value. But before, it was trashed anyway. So I decided to just make it look better for my own reasons. I hope this helps.

The Zombie Spammers are here. I fixed 'em.

It gets even weirder than this. It's at the light boundaries where refraction occurs. So air/glass refracts, then again on the other side where the glass/air interface is. If you had two layers of glass you'd have refraction as glass/air/glass/air (out the back side). There are also minor internal refractions from the "inside" face of the glass/air boundary back into the glass. You can get some crazy moire' patterns that way. Try looking at your crystal under a polarizing filter. It's better than Andy Warhol and root beer.

Different types of "plastic" have different indexes of refraction. The higher the index (and arguably the higher the quality) the more the refraction. So a high quality/index "plastic" will show more "rainbows" due to refraction than a lower quality/index "plastic."

Ok now that makes it all better! Woof

All hail the RA-Dweller! Gorgeous old school piece.

Me? I'm playing my guitar. This has my hands sweating again.