panerai153

Really!!! 2000GBP for a watch that is selling used for probably 5k GBP What a bargain!! Do people turn off their brain when they go on Ebay? This "minnie" (seller) has 27 positive feedbacks and the most was for 107 GBP for a data card. Not one single high end sale, no watches except another fake Hugo boss. If this one was real, she would have 10+ good high quality photos from every angle. She doesn't have the box or paperwork, but has the guarantee card!! I bet it's real too. What is very gratifying was a post on the Vintage Roex forum today about a woman in the UK who was sentenced to 12 months in jail (not suspended either, but real jail time) for selling a fake Chanel watch to one buyer and another one who received an empty box. At the sentencing, the woman's lawyer pleaded for a suspended sentence because the woman has three children , two of which are young, The judge replied .“The message has to go out that when a person is ripping off someone purchasing in good faith on the internet and they get caught, they can expect to be severely punished.” Good for him!! If Ebay or buyers prosocuted some of the sellers of fake goods, it wouldn't take long for the story to get around, and i would bet the fake crap would slow down drastically. Here is the link http://www.kentonline.co.uk/kentish_gazette/news/2013/january/15/mums_children_face_care.aspx

What I would recommend is that you go over to the Vintage Rolex Forum, click on the Vintage Rolex Market and look at what they have for sale, varies from hour to hour, day to day. What you will know for sure is the watch you buy will be genuine and it will be well represented but not "over sold". Personally I would stay away from all the sapphire crystal later Rolex watches, as they are made in the millions, and they aren't going to appreciate much if any. When the market gets soft, as it does from time to time, those are the first to lose value. My favorites would be (in your price range of 5500-6500) 1680 Submariner, 1675 GMT, 16750 GMT. All of the Rolex chronographs are out as they are way out of the stated price. The 1665 SD is a pretty heavy chunky watch, and an "investment grade) piece is going to be around 10-14K. there are lots of other Rolex watches to chose from, but if she is looking for a sport model, these plus the vintage non-date subs are pretty much what's available. Befoere I bought, I would do a lot of reading and looking. If you aren't an expert, get and expert to help you.Someone who knows Rolex vintage watches can save you a lot of money in the long run, as they can spot problems from a long way away. just things like the wrong series dial that someone swapped out 30 years ago, or the wrong insert, or a modern crown that's not age appropriate, replacement hands that don't match the dial, all of these things decrease the value of the watch. If you have all the paperwork, such as Rolex service papers that show the dial, hands, crown and tube were swapped out in 1963, are a great help, but even with that some real collectors would rather have one that's all original. Another thing, I would never buy a watch as and investment unless it was an extremely desirable, rare or one off piece. When you look at prices of vintage rolex, you have to remember their appreciation has not been completely linear. There have been ups and downs. Another thing, look at the 1680 Submariner for example. They were sold for around 100-150 USD in the late 60's, prices went up and in the 1970's they had skyrocketed to around 400-500 USD!! and that's new price compared to new price, probably a good used 1968 1680 could be bought in 1978 for 300 -400 USD. So prices were doubled in 10 years, fast forward to today. that same 1680 in pristine condition with the original box, punched paper, accessories, etc is now probably around 6500-8000 USD and that's in really, really great shape witha good tight bracelet and all original parts. Subtract for service dial, service hands, refinished dial (Big no no) dings and dents and especially and overpolished case. Add in a few of those and now you're looking at 4500-5500 USD./ So that watch witha birth date in 1968 went from say 150 USD to 6000 USD, helluva jump you say, but wait, it took 55 years to get there, and the ones that didn't fare so well are at 4500, for the same age span. Now suppose you put your 150 USd in the bank in 1968 @ 4% interest, interest went up in the late 70's and 80's to 1lmost 15% now down to nothing, but say you averaged 4% over 55 years, Youwould be better off with the watch, but if you put your money in a stock fund back then and earned just 8% which is well within reach, you would have more than double the value of the watch, in cash! So as most all the experts warn folks , buy tangible objects, art work, cars, watches, whatever, because you love them and you like having them around, but not as and investment. If you do buy one with the idea of making a few bucks off it later on or possibly using it as trade material to trade up to something different, remember the old RealEstate mantra "location, location, location", well with watch collecting it's " Condition,Condition,Condition". Buying cheap is not a bargan in the long haul.

I'm sure a lot of the smaller watch manufacturers use cases made in China. the differences are 1) they are dealing with hteir own design, and not cases that are illigal to build openly like rep Rolex cases. 2) As you said the case buyer has reps who oversee production, also they are not hesitant to turn down stuff that isn't up to spec. Over time the manufacturers realize that they have to turn out quality products that are consistently in spec, or they are going to have a lot of expensive scrap cases that they have to eat.

Great work, and lots of very useful information. I have always contended that the biggest "tell" with rep 1675/16750's is the crown. When you use a 6mm crown, it doesn't seem like much, but it's BIG compared to the 5.3mm. And as RA said, short of using a genuine case, or a model specific case from one of the aftermarket sellers like phong,yuki, NDT and others, you can't use a 5.3mm crown because as RA said the space between the case guards is just to wide.Adding metal is and option, but most modders don't have the capabilities to add metal to cases. Too bad someone hasn't come out with a good 1675/16750 case, but I'm afraid that building something like that is way down on the priority list for the rep factories.

here's the deal. the 455 end links were used with a Jubilee bracelet on some GMT models. they are obviously wrong for a 78360. The clasp is a TT clasp for a TT Jubilee bracelet. the number is a real rolex number (62523H) however that is a number that is well documented as used on fake bracelets along with the D12. I have a bracelet in my parts drawer with the same numbers, and I'm just about 100% sure mine is not genuine, I know it did not come on a TT Jubilee, as I have never owned a TT Jubilee bracelet. yours could be genuine, but it's mighty coincidental that those numbers came up. At any rate, the 78360 bracelet should have a 78360 clasp. Lots of old Rolex bracelets/clasps are floating around that are genuine, but they are put together from different parts. My genuine 16750 had a genuine 62510 (Jubilee) clasp on a 78360 bracelet. I changed it out to a 78360 clasp and sent the guy who sold me the 78360 clasp some photos of the old 62510. He emailed mye back that the clasp was genuine, but the blades were from 2 different clasps, which reduced the value some as it isn't correct.

All in all, this may be the best solution, as it seems that the inability of the factories to " get everything right" may ultimately torpedo what would otherwise be a wonderful project. If you had a 1680 case available, even if it needed a little work, I would buy it in. Heartbeat.

Must be and epidemic of sorting machine problems.I sent mymanmatt a tritium pearl for a project he's working on for me. I sent everything else in a box last week, but I forgot the pearl. discovered it on my desk a couple of days ago. So, silly me, I put it inside it's little plastic bag, inside a regular envelope, and sent it to him. Damn if I didn't get an email from him today, "got your letter, envelope was ripped open, pearl was nowhere to be found"!! I should have known better. i generally over pack everything I mail, but I wasn't thinking, in a hurry, and now a genuine tritium pearl is lost forever. lucky I had another one, it's going out tomorrow, in a double plastic bag inside a regular envelope, inside a padded envelope, and it's going Priority with insurance this time!!. Sometimes we get a little too hurried, or we try to save a few bucks, and the consequences are far more expensive than the safer route.

It wouldn't be normal for a WIS to not get excited about purchasing a much sought after watch. The only problem, sometimes the waiting, searching, saving, selling other watches,etc. all add to the pent up excitement. Occasionally, the wait is so long, and the anticipation so intense, when you get the watch, it's very anticlimatic. this happened to me with my MKII Kingston. It was almost 2 years from the deposit date to delivery. All that time, the MKII forum was abuzz, everyone was frothing at the mouth, and when mine came, it was almost a let down. In fact,I didn't wear it nearly as much at first, but it sort of grew on me, and now it's firmly in the rotation.

the only way to tell is to get the watch, take it apart and see what the construction looks like, genuine type or one of the other "compromise" constructions. thye rehault looks wonky to me, the genuine 16750, 16710,s didn't have that deep of a rehault, also the angle looks wrong. No telling about the bezel until you take the one off that's on the watch, look at the construction and see if it's genuine like. If it is, it's possible that it will work. Modding reps, even very high end cases is often a hit or miss proposition. Even the really expensive case, like phong, yuki, ming quy are not always 100% 1:1. they are the closest that tyou can find, but even with them, sometimes it takes modding to make parts fit. Generally, and this is certainly not always the case, but the cheaper the case, the further from genuine it will be. I'm not sure which case the watch you bought is based on. Not many folks mod the TT GMT's, so it's hard to say which stainless steel model uses this same case.

Matt, if you dril them out, is their going to be any/enough metal left? I'm wondering, because i have several sets of end linke that are useless with 2mm springbars.

Go over to the Vintage Rolex Forum and click on Vintage Market. Lots of 93150's for sale. Most are up around 1000.00 USD if in really good shape with appropriate end links.

Don't worry, he has been busy on the genuine forums as well!!!

Heck man that was a pretty darn high paying job, grossing over 600 per month!! you could have bought a Rolex every couple of months on those wages, and still had lots left over for beer and cigarettes, and those unsuspecting coeds!!!

Also Sub 16800 and 168000. I had the same question. Do you want to know if it's genuine or Rep? Between Mike and i you now have the appropriate models this bracelet /endlink combo was used on. The "S" sserial on the bracelet indicates 1994 year which is well within the range of the 93150. By the way, all this info came from the sticky "Bracelet and endlink guide" at the top of the Rolex page. If it's not gen, it's a pretty darn good rep.

I'm sure the Air king was less than 200,00 it seems like it was more like around 150.00 in 1966. it's pretty amazing how cheap they were back then, but folks didn't make a lot of money either. A 200 dollar watch was probably half a months salary! I didn't keep the Airking too long, I wasn't satisfied with a no-date watch. I traded it for a datejust probably in 1967-68. I wore the datejust for a while, in 1970 of 71 I bought my first sub, a 1680 Red. i believe that this one cost me around 500.00 USD. I wore the hell out of this one, because unlike the datejust which i considered more of a watch to wear to church on Sunday or going out to dinner, the 1680 was a wear it every day, nothing too tough for it sort of watch. that's been a long time ago, probably before a lot of the guys here were born, back then, no one had a clue that those Rolex watches would be worth what they are today. If I had any idea that they would be as valuable as they turned out to be, and had ibeen able to keep every one, i would have a pretty nice collection of vintage Rolex sport models, but then again, hindsight is the only 20-20 vision I have ever had!!

I just bought a 10 watch box from Amazon. they had tons of choices. What i like about Amazon, they ship fast, shipping is reasonable, and they have a great no hassle return policy. the one i bought is by Tech Swiss it's a 10 watch Cherry wood finish with a glass display top. Price was 59.00 USD

Of my genuine watches, the best is my MKII Kingston non date. Of my Reps, the best is my GMT 11C

that's the way it should be done!!

What movement? If it's and asian clone, you can probably get someone to replace the movement for 50 bucks or so. If its a better movement, which I doubt if the watch was 150.00 USD, you could get it serviced. I would get it fixed if it was a present from my wife. How much is peace and tranquility worth?

Glad you got it all sorted out Ken. Paypal is a two edged sword, it provides a great deal more protection for the buyer than either a wire transfer or WU/MoneyGram. It's definitely weighed heavily in the favor of the buyer to the detriment of the seller. Some sellers are weighing sales more carefully, because of the problems. I recently had an interesting experience. I bought a genuine Maurice LaCroix Calendre Retrograde" from a seller on TimeZone. He was pretty new, but had sold quite a few watches over the past year. When I contacted him, he told me that he wanted Paypal gift. i wasn't too thrilled with PP gift, as it severely limits your options if the deal goes South. I decided to try regular Paypal with 3% added for fees. He canceled the payment!! i emailed him and asked him what was going on. He told me that he would only take Paypal gift unless i could provide him with references from past transactions. I told him that was fine, but I wanted some from him as well. I told him that I had been buying and selling on TZ for a lot of years and he was pretty new, so I felt like if he wanted me to use and unprotected payment system, I had to be satisfied that he was legit too. It got a little tense, and Thought he was going to back out, but since the watch had been for sale for a month or so with a couple of price reductions, I guess he figured he better he had better swallow his pride and get real. I sent him a list of probably 10 names of guys I had either bought or sold watches with. I checked out a few of the folks who had bought watches from him. All his buyers were happy with their deals, so I figured he was OK. He must have checked mine, because he emailed me back the next day and told me that I could either use Paypal gift or regular Paypal, my choice. I told him that I wasn't really comfortable with PP gift, not because of the rules, but I didn't want Paypal scrutinizing my account examining why I made a almost 2K "Gift". He offered to split the fees, and we did the deal. He told me that he had one guy very early in his selling career who wasn't happy with a watch, and at the time his return policy was return only if not as described. Well, the buyer wanted to return the watch for a full refund and he refused, as it was obviously buyers remorse. The buyer opened a Paypal dispute claiming that the watch was not what he was told he was getting, froze his Paypal account for 3 months before they found in his favor, but as he said once is enough.

It's sold!!

I have found over 35 years of Anesthesia, and dealing with lots and lots of surgeons along the way, they fall into two rough categories, the first and absolutely the best are the ones that try to involve the patient in every phase of the process, carefully explaining, charts, photos, diagrams, models, whatever it takes to get the idea across. Most of these guys are very candid about results. If they feel like you have a 30% chance of getting complete relief of your problem, and a 70% chance of partial but significant relief, they will tell you. the other ones which tend to be more of the "Old School" physicians are the ones that think that they know everything, the patient really doesn't know or understand what they are talking about, so their attitude is, "I know best, don't question my judgment or ability". Believe me, those are the hardest to work with because they all have varying degrees of the "God Syndrome". There is not much place in todays medicine for those guys/gals, but there are still a fair number of them around. I'm not sure how much freedom of choice you have in picking another orthopedic surgeon, but if you have a choice, i would at some point seek another opinion. If you get a second opinion, I would ask "what are the consequences of a wrist fusion, how will it affect my mobility, use of my hand, etc." Basically if your wrist is fused, you will not have any motion in your wrist. your arm will be straight, but for all practical purposes, your wrist will be frozen. you may have rotational movement, but probably no up and down. Not knowing anything more, I don't know how much motion you have now. Fusing may decrease the pain, and you can wear you watch on the correct arm!! by the way, I used to ride. i had a BMW GS 1150 about 8-9 years ago. Rode the heck out of it, but I got to the point I was getting scared, not of my ability, but the other driver. We have way too many "Soccer Moms" around here. they drive, text, talk on their cell, apply makeup, eat a burger, all the while totally oblivious to their surroundings. Those are the ones that will kill you!! "Officer, I never saw that motorcycle when I turned left, until the guy came through my passenger side window. How am I going to get all that blood off my leather upholstery"!!

It was a pretty good watch for a few years, I put it through hell!. After it broke, I splurged and bought a Rolex Airking, back in around 1966. I believe it was less than 75.00 USD, but of course the Timex's were 9.98 !!! That was my first Rolex, and from then on out, it was off to the races.

I don't think this one ever was a home run hit!! There are some really nice Day/Dates out there, but to me this isn't one of them.

Very, very nice!! Should be a knockout.